Damp 2010 Forester, suspect cactus ECU

Quamera

Forum Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
9
Location
Goondiwindi
Car Year
2010
Car Model
Forester
Transmission
Auto
Hello all, my father took his 2010 petrol auto Forester for a swim. We have dried him and Forrie out but although the motor still turned over on the starter (we checked for no liquid past the aircleaner first) after it was first removed from the water now it doesn't connect. The gauges still do their little dance, most of the dash lights come on to check the bulbs but there is no "check motor" light at any time. The temperature light initially glows red as it should for the check but then instead of a steady blue it goes into police mode continuously flashing blue/red until the key is turned off again. Turning the key to start achieves absolutely nothing except cutting power to the radio and fan, the dash lights do not even dim.

I borrowed an OBDll reader but although it powered up and tried to scan it kept asking me to turn on the ignition and check the lead connection so that wasn't a good sign. I removed the ECU, cleaned some scum off and allowed it to dry out completely before replacing it but that made no difference to the scanner or response to the ignition key. I suspect I have a water damaged ECU (I don't think it was immersed in water but there was condensation inside the box). Has anyone else had a similar experience and what was the result.
 
Welcome over here @Quamera (you already my input from "that other place" ;) )
 
There's some guys down in Sydney or Brisbane that repaired the TCU on my SVX, they do an inspection for about $50-100 and repair if possible.
I could find out from my auto guy who they are if you like.
 
Might pay to look at your gearbox oil too. Don`t know about the autos but manuals had/have a dipstick where water can get in, especially under suction where a hot gear box encounters a cold water hole. My old MY 80 had many such baths and subsequent oil changes after crossing Magela Creek in the wet season in the NT.
Then I learnt about breathers.......
To "Ben Up North" I would guess All Drive Subaroo would assist, at a price.
 
Ben Up North said:
There's some guys down in Sydney or Brisbane that repaired the TCU on my SVX, they do an inspection for about $50-100 and repair if possible.
I could find out from my auto guy who they are if you like.
Click to expand...
Thanks Ben, I will find out tomorrow what a new one is worth then investigate used ones. Just looking at this one there are about 5 large ICs so it looks fairly complex to trouble shoot and even harder to repair, in fact I would not have even considered that as an option but I don't know much about these things.
 
ateday said:
Might pay to look at your gearbox oil too. Don`t know about the autos but manuals had/have a dipstick where water can get in, especially under suction where a hot gear box encounters a cold water hole. My old MY 80 had many such baths and subsequent oil changes after crossing Magela Creek in the wet season in the NT.
Then I learnt about breathers.......
To "Ben Up North" I would guess All Drive Subaroo would assist, at a price.
Click to expand...
Thanks ateday, one of the first things we did after towing it back and emptying the water out of the inside was loosen off the sump and trans. drain plugs to check for water, there wasn't any but we will also do the diffs at some stage as well.
 
For anyone interested the new Subaru price for our ECU from Wipples in Toowoomba was $2820. They freely gave me the part number so I tapped it in and found a used one from SGS at Thornleigh for $120. The only downside is they won't take returns on electronic parts so it's a bit of a gamble.
 
Yes Kevin, $853 but not available ATM. There was also a new (possibly non genuine although I would have no understanding why someone else would make something as complicated as that for such a limited market) for about $450 from another aftermarket Subaru parts supplier who had crossed out the $2820 RRP from the dealer.
 
Ben Up North said:
Ouch. But at least you can get one. :)
Click to expand...
Yes Ouch but I didn't feel much pain because if you read a little further you will see I went used for $120. The hurt may come after the replacement arrives if I can't make it work so fingers crossed.
 
I think there might be something simpler if it’s not cranking over.
The ECU may be unhappy but I don’t think that will stop it cranking.

have you tried wobbling the shifter with the key in the crank position?
Have you tried have the key in the on position and jumping the solenoid wire on the starter?
Does the fuel pump run when you turn the key on?
 
Now that is the question Jon. I don't know if the ECU can "disconnect" the starter, I only suspected that it does. If anyone can give me a definite yes or no on that I would be very grateful. I can say that there isn't even a hint of dimming lights on the dash or any clicks when the key is turned to start which is why I thought it had been electronically disconnected.

I did try wobbling the shift lever in P and N with the key on start, no hint of a result.
I have not heard the fuel pump at all but I will take more notice next time I go out.
I haven't tried jumping the starter solenoid. That would definitely make it turn over however I would be most surprised if it started.
Have you any ideas about what could cause my temp light to go into "police mode"?
 
OK over a month now and still ongoing. The new (used) ECU arrived and after it was plugged in the temp light was back to normal and the motor turned over easily on the starter but doesn't fire. I have a red key symbol on the dash which I assume means that the key isn't matched to the ECU. Unfortunately my neighbours OBDII reader doesn't recognise the ECU so can't recode it and I have sent the Forrie into town on a car trailer. Our mechanic is also having trouble connecting to the ECU with an expensive OBDII reader so he is looking for advice.
 
Well these electronic security systems are more complicated and less forgiving than I ever realised. The mechanics had no luck at all with the used ECU and eventually I contacted the wreckers that I purchased it from and after some discussion I purchased the entire security kit from the car that the ECU came from. So door lock barrel, keys, ignition switch and barrel, immobiliser, key reader and the entire dash for another $135 which I thought was quite reasonable and the new odometer has way less k's on it than our old one!!. The problem was it all had to be installed and since it was already at the mechanics they did it and $2K later the Forrie is a goer.
 
@Quamera Well it was certainly a long road home! Happy to see it's all good now; thanks for the update
 
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