Advice please, on recovery/tow points on a Gen 3 Outback

[Dave Hansford]

Hi Folks:

Sooner or later, I'm going need a snatch out of a bog, or a river or something... but before I end up tearing the front out of the car, I figured I should research some good recovery point/hardware options (mounts/eyes/shackles), front and rear, on my Gen 3 Outback. Can anyone help, please, with suggestions for good strong points and hardware? (I already have a couple of soft shackles). I was hoping for something that would be permanently mounted, ready to go, but didn't require butchering the front bumper... how have you guys solved this?

 

[NachaLuva]

Remember that Gen 3 is a BH Outback. You have a 2008 BP Outback which is a gen 4
Ignore the American gen naming system, they have successfully screwed it up for everyone

I don't specifically know what tie down point a BP OB has, but be careful using soft shackles on anything with a small radius corner as it dramatically weakens them

 

[Dave Hansford]

"Ignore the American gen naming system, they have successfully screwed it up for everyone."

And pretty much everything else...

Thanks.... here in New Zealand, we got the (rather blimpish) Gen 1 in 1994 — imports were usually badged as a "Grand wagon". Then we got the BH in 1999, and that ran until, I think 2004. Then we got mine, the Gen 3, or, as you say, BP. What's the missing generation I've forgotten?

 

[Kevin]

Do you have a tow bar? If so you can run the loop of a snatch into the hitch receiver and secure it with the hitch pin. Otherwise get one of those hitch shackles

 

[Dave Hansford]

"Do you have a tow bar?"

I do, but I made a wrong choice, Kevin... instead of the removable hitch, I installed the one-piece towbar. I'm kicking myself now, of course, as we all know it's taboo to drop a sling over a towball. To make things much worse, the tow bar bolts through the factory rear towing eye, so I've lost the use of that too! Which is why I now have to think of something else... I can't face the idea of replacing a practically brand new tow bar with a removable one.

 

[Kevin]

remove the tow ball and use a metal shackle?

Can you give us some pics underneath the front and rear so we can see what's there?

 

[Dave Hansford]

"remove the tow ball and use a metal shackle?"

That's the best idea yet... I'm supposed to be working, but I'll post some photos when I get a chance...

 

[scalman]

Rear and front has good enough places for recover with proper snatch strap or snatch rope just dont use towing strap and you be fine. And in rear if you have tow bar even better. Not like you go into deep mud on purpose with some patrol friends.
Just in rear i use omega shackle on that place just then put rope or strap on shackle , more options. Or soft shackles works on everything too.

Just more safer options using soft shackles

Thats recovery, for towing first you cant tow automatic anyway and if you can just use tow straps with hard shackles not soft then.

Just other day i was properly bogged in soft mud but because used proper snatch rope 10m could combine it with normal straps and with fwd car from far away was easy job to recover me. Used oem rear factory towing place with shackle on it.

 

[Dave Hansford]

Thanks @scalman: have you successfully done a recovery/snatch using that screw-in front towing eye (the one that goes behind the lift-off panel on the front bumper)? I read on another forum that it wasn't rated for snatch recovery. I'd hate to have it strip out of the mount and hurt somebody.... I have an ARB snatch strap, so the load wouldn't be so great...

 

[ABFoz]

You can probably buy a distribution strap or chain with a tow hook and use it without the need for any rated recovery point. I learned this one from Matt's Off-Road Recovery where more than half of the cars or trucks he is recovering do not have the rated points. He uses the lower control arm and/or the stamped holes in them to hook up the hook for the distribution chain.

Check out this video. The sample car is a Hyundai, which does not have a recovery point visible. The Hyundai discussion and explanation on recovery using the lower control arm starts at around 9:50 in the video. When you watch his videos, you can see that he goes under the car often to anchor the hooks to the lower control arm. Cheers.

 

[scalman]

Thanks Scalman: have you successfully done a recovery/snatch using that screw-in front towing eye (the one that goes behind the lift-off panel on the front bumper)? I read on another forum that it wasn't rated for snatch recovery. I'd hate to have it strip out of the mount and hurt somebody.... I have an ARB snatch strap, so the load wouldn't be so great...

Well i made my custom front points but for not too deep recovery it would be fine with front screw i think , dont think you can be bogged so badly, just if got stuck dont dig deeper better stop and call for other car to recover you. I was alone so tried all i could just then i called for help. Never go alone haha.
In worst case or if you would brake that screw there are kinda "not recovery points" just under bumper but they on both sides so its better but bumper will be in the way but just in worst case you can use those with extra equaliser strap between them. Probably that will remove your bumper but you could be saved with those.
I used those for my custom recovery/hilift jack points.
And yes they not rated as recovery points but if you do it smart and slow and with recovery driver who understands that it will be fine. Subarus are not rated as off road cars but thats didnt stopped anyone. If someone dont know how to recover with snatch strap or hes driving some heavy 4x4 and is jackass, dont let them recover your car.

 

[Kevin]

uses the lower control arm

You could probably use some axle straps to attach to the lower arms etc - may be kinder to the metal. I carry a pair just in case:

They are very strong; in combination with my tree trunk protector I've pulled some fairly sizable stumps out of the ground (with the Triton in low range 4WD). 1,500kg L.C.Lashing Capacity

Just Straps® Car Transport Axle Strap c/w Sewn Eyes

Shop Now for all your Quality Tie-Downs, Four Wheel Drive & Marine straps. Just Strap it & Go!

www.juststraps2go.com.au

 

[scalman]

There are better places there then control arms. And if you bogged so badly that screw dont work you probably wont reach control arms too as it will be buried.
And do rear is kinda more easy as rear probably its lighter and will jump off more easily then front
Ohh and put all your recovery things on car before going to hard places even put straps on and put it inside car by window, be

 

[ABFoz]

You could probably use some axle straps to attach to the lower arms etc - may be kinder to the metal.

That's a good idea! I will look into these, as well.

There are better places there then control arms. And if you bogged so badly that screw dont work you probably wont reach control arms too as it will be buried.
And do rear is kinda more easy as rear probably its lighter and will jump off more easily then front

Yes, if it's a mud bog, there will be some digging involved in the said method and the rear is much more exposed.

The multi-link rear is a bit tricky, though, for that model. I am thinking the point closer to the hub is easier to access than the one closer to the subframe.

 

[scalman]

Well rear tow bar is easiest to use front that screw thingy. I dont think you could bogged so much that it wont be enough, if going hardcore do something like this. Still almost stock look

And here we call those gen 3 , 2004-2009 models BH-BP and 3.0 versions called BPe as i saw. Still all gen 3 .

 

[NachaLuva]

Just to clear up the Gen thing, there is NO gen 1 Outback.
It was never made & doesn't exist!

The first Outback is a Gen 2. The current model is a Gen 7 Outback

If you want to disagree, please provide a photo of your VIN plate.

This is a compilation of gen 2-6, I don't have a photo of a Gen 7 Outback VIN plate yet.
3rd line down:
The letter (B) means the Legacy/Liberty/Outback line (S = Forester; G = Impreza; X = XV/Crosstrek)
The number is the gen
"A" denotes the Outback variation

 

[scalman]

1st gen is called legacy outback, later ones goes on its own outback name maybe thats why and same reasom same year legacy now is called one gen later.
At least thats how you pick car parts. So first ones are legacy outbacks. Why not call them 1st gen ? I will and noone can stop me.
What you mean no 1st gen?

So duno how part shops gives you to choose your car model , we still have couple differrent style some calling legacy outback as 1st gen and then later ones just outback. Other shops made all more clear less trouble

 

[ABFoz]

Well rear tow bar is easiest to use front that screw thingy. I dont think you could bogged so much that it wont be enough, if going hardcore do something like this. Still almost stock look

Those anchor points are always sweet and useful. Unfortunately, here in NZ we will need a low-volume vehicle (LVV) cert on almost any modification involving the body and the structure. If we install anchor points like that in our cars, there is a chance the inspecting engineer may not approve of the certification because they really cringe when they see anything bolted to the frontal structure/crumple zone. If the engineer will approve it, it will cost around NZD1000, at least. Our system tolerates some bolt-ons but anything related to the suspension or structure will need to be certified.

Just to clear up the Gen thing, there is NO gen 1 Outback.
It was never made & doesn't exist!

The first Outback is a Gen 2. The current model is a Gen 7 Outback

If you want to disagree, please provide a photo of your VIN plate.

This is a compilation of gen 2-6, I don't have a photo of a Gen 7 Outback VIN plate yet.
3rd line down:
The letter (B) means the Legacy/Liberty/Outback line (S = Forester; G = Impreza; X = XV/Crosstrek)
The number is the gen
"A" denotes the Outback variation

Yes. I am glad somebody noticed this and the VIN codes, as well. The Outback is truly just a sub-variant of the Legacy. It was originally released as the Legacy Outback, Grand Wagon or Legacy Lancaster in some markets. It became just the Outback during the 3rd-gen era but Japan still named theirs Legacy Lancaster. I think North America distorted the generations by using gen 1, gen 2, etc. instead of using the chassis type like they always do in Japan. The Japanese always refer to their VINs' codes when referring to the generations.

This generation dilemma is a bit like how the VAB WRX STI is named now. It used to be Impreza WRX STI up to the GRB/GVB chassis type. Here WRX STI is still just a sub-variant/model of the Impreza up until 2014 when Subaru decided to remove Impreza and just name it WRX STI. We don't call the 2014 VABs first generation WRX STIs, right?

 

[scalman]

Those anchor points are always sweet and useful. Unfortunately, here in NZ we will need a low-volume vehicle (LVV) cert on almost any modification involving the body and the structure. If we install anchor points like that in our cars, there is a chance the inspecting engineer may not approve of the certification because they really cringe when they see anything bolted to the frontal structure/crumple zone. If the engineer will approve it, it will cost around NZD1000, at least. Our system tolerates some bolt-ons but anything related to the suspension or structure will need to be certified.

Hm i did is legal. So before i go to MOT inspection i will need remove all that all lifts all led bulbs , everything. Doesnt mean you will be stopped in middle of road with those mods and they will look under car, i mean whos testing your cars there so much? Insurance? I go to insurance i tell model year and engine, they dont even know how my car looks.
That front recovery tube system is just bolt on nothing welded to frame.
I mean system is poop if steel bumpers can be certified for safety.. i mean just think about it, you hit person with pure metal, dead.
First gen is when first time outback name appeared on car as name.

 

[Kevin]

It was originally released as the Legacy Outback,

Not here - it was "Subaru Outback" from day one; I had one.