Head gasket sealant

Ser_Egg

Ser_Egg

Forum Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2019
Messages
286
Location
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Car Year
2005
Car Model
Subaru Forester SG series 1
Transmission
5Spd Manual
So ive found a small leak where the head gasket would be and ive tried to seal it up externally using permatex copper make a gasket stuff, only for a temporary job till i can get the the gasket replaced. To no avail this has somewhat failed. Now the leak is slow and not big, but still, its not really ideal. I was thinking as a last resort, using a gasket sealer that runs through the cooling system internally and was wondering if anyone has anyone used this stuff and does it work?. Not something i really wanna put in the motor but at the moment i do not have the money to replace head gaskets at the moment. Also fellow Australians, whats the average price for head gasket replacements??
 
@Ser_Egg some seeping from the head gasket is OK and can last for years in that condition. I would not put products such as Bars Leaks in the cooling system unless it was a real emergency (btw Subaru coolant conditioner is the same stuff). I don't know what the cost would be to replace the HGs.
 
I am abit hesitant in putting that stuff. Im just going for the sign off attempt on the roadworthy and even though this isnt on the list, it could potentially fail me. I have till wednesday. All for this rubbish just for a rego transfer!
 
@Ser_Egg Have the engine steam cleaned or degreased before the roadworthy. Minor leakage is acceptable under the ADRs (IIRC) and is defined as a specific amount per time after cleaning. It's a relatively loose standard, as long as the car isn't p¡ss¡ing out oil from any point.

BTW :welcome: to the forum.
 
Cheers mate!

Well from what youre saying mate i should be good then. They assumed oil leak but nothing there. Also do ypu know if i have to pay again to get the RW signed off??
 
All good mate. I just got one person saying you pay the 1 part which is where they go over the car, then you go in next time to get it looked over to see of you did everything you needed and you get the RWC and then you gotta pay again and then another guy saying its only a one time payment. Soo i dont know haha
 
might help if you say what state you're in - they're all different.
 
Last time I had a roadworthy done was about 30 years ago ... I don't change cars very often ;).
 
Was dripping coolant. The sealent had seemed to work but now i find the oil filter is dripping oil at a slow rate whilst the oil is still clear. If i yank the filter will i drop loads of oil??
 

Get a Certificate of Roadworthiness : VicRoads

A Certificate of Roadworthiness is required when a vehicle is sold, if a used vehicle is to be re-registered or, in some cases to clear a Vehicle Defect Notice.
www.vicroads.vic.gov.au www.vicroads.vic.gov.au


If an item fails to meet the requirements, the vehicle tester will issue a rejection report. You’ll be given 7 days to repair or replace the rejected item/s and have them re-inspected.

If more than 7 days goes by, another full inspection will be required

I interpret this to mean if you fix it within seven days, no more cost. If it is more than seven, then you pay full price again.
 
Ser_Egg said:
If i yank the filter will i drop loads of oil??
Click to expand...

You will drop a little but not the whole lot - did you try and tighten it to stop the leak? When I remove my oil filter I cut a 1.25L soft drink bottle in half, loosen the filter just enough so it doesn't drop oil everywhere, then slide the bottom half of the bottle over the filter and by grabbing the outside of the bottle remove the filter = no mess.
 
yeh hes fully tight problem the reason for the leak. Was like this when i got her. I like this idea, then you can just refill the filter when you wanna pop it back on i guess? My oil is still clear hence why i just wanna drop the filter because thats where a small drip is coming from
 
Yes, over-tightening can damage the seal. Should be hand tight + 2/3 to 3/4 of a turn after the seal contacts the block.
 
Kevin said:
Yes, over-tightening can damage the seal. Should be hand tight + 2/3 to 3/4 of a turn
Click to expand...
As can any dirt/grit on either the seal or the engine seat. Always lubricate the seal with clean oil just before fitting. As Kevin said, never over-tighten. Don't ever use a filter wrench for fitting.
 
In NSW at least, you won't fail an inspection for an oil leak, unless the it leaks onto the floor of the workshop throughout the process of the inspection (i.e 30minutes). Give it a good clean before hand you should be good. The stock sump guard is excellent at soaking up the oil too. Source: Old Man is a Registered RMS Vehicle Examiner of 35+ Years
 
Ser_egg, your oil leak at the filter is at the head gasket. It leaks oil down onto the oil filter. You’ll have the same oil leak on the rear of the passenger’s head.

“Back in the day” you were given 28 days to rectify any RW issues and return for the follow up inspection. 7 days is an absolute push and a pain in the arse most of the time, namely if you’ve got things to tick off the list.

If/when you get the head gaskets done use the multi layered steel head gaskets. I’d have to dig up the part numbers for you to use. If you use the ones listed as per your VIN, you’ll most likely have the same leaks within 100,000km. My sister’s liberty is testimate to this. 330,000 - replaces the head gaskets on her EJ251 to pass road worthy due to the dreaded HG oil leak. Used the vehicle’s VIN to get the “correct” head gaskets. Bad move - seems Subaru don’t acknowledge this issue and haven’t change part numbers as a result.

You could try steam cleaning the area, then wipe down with metho and push the sealant into where the oil was leaking from the bottom of the head gasket. If it’s coolant leaking, you’re up for a HG job to get rid of that problem - and for your RWC.

I’m currently working through my mother inlaw’s “new” SG. Engine leaking oil like a sieve - namely from the head gaskets. It has 370,000km on the clock but still pulls like a freight train. I’ve put four times the amount that we paid for the vehicle into the sorting of the engine with the aim to not touch it for a long time to come! Other than that, the rear struts needed replacing and it should be good for RWC. The amount in the engine work is parts only - all genuine. I realise DIY isn’t for everyone, so consider labour costs too.

RWC isn’t always “fun” since it can come down to who’s doing the check. It’s kind of like gambling to a degree. Some RWC mechanics take it to the n’th letter of the book, some will let certain things slide.

Eg - sister’s liberty. Went to one place, got a list as long as my arm - including needing new fan belts due to cracks!! They noted suspension bushes needed replacing and a couple of other odd things. Went to another place near my folks, found a hole in the exhaust, they welded it, car passed its RWC check. 6 months later we replaced all bushes and the front struts. The irony of the weld job is that they cut another hole in the exhaust removing the heat shields...

All the best with it! It’s a gamble at the end of the day. Either get the work done now or get it passed and have down time on the vehicle later... your call.

Cheers

Bennie
 
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