Steering rack got loose

[scalman]

So its loose in a way that on both sides you can move it on lifted car with wheel or with hand and its clicking inside rack moving front and back.
And its metal rattle when driving most times. Sterring itself dont feel worse .

Replace for new? Aftermarket / oem?
Find good used one that is not loose?
Stering rack refurbishment?
Some guy did refurbishment for legacy said he paid 150 euros. And they give 2yr waranty.

 

[jf1sf5]

Its probably only the tie rods, or maybe the big adjustment bolt on the upper front left of the steering rack getting loose. This one is very sensitive to adjust. Finally, it can also just be the rubber silent-blocks, easy fix !

The Subaru steering racks are renowned to be very reliable and as long as you don't have any oil leaks, don't change it !

 

[scalman]

Its not tie rods. Its moving inside rack and i mean from inside. Hm so that bolt the. What it does i might check that. About half year ago i just had slight movement on driver side and now i have on both sides those click click clicks.
About leakage not sure whats leaks there as my hg leaks so that might be those leak on sterring rack but rack itself is wet yes. I even changed one of those things that bolts inside rack but that was not it. Its loose inside.
And its not much space to work there rly i cant even put my hand there.
So rubber silent block where those are?
I guess i need to remove sterring rack to change there anything.
Anyone here did that ?

 

[jf1sf5]

Yes, you have to remove the swaybar, take off the 4 bolts holding the steering rack, there you will see the thin rubber silent-blocks. The big bolt is very big, you can't miss it. There is also the lock nut you have to unscrew first. When tightening the big bolt, its very sensitive, just go 1mm by 1mm and if you make it too tight, the steering will feel hard and dont forget to re-tighten the lock nut.

 

[scalman]

Yes, you have to remove the swaybar, take off the 4 bolts holding the steering rack, there you will see the thin rubber silent-blocks. The big bolt is very big, you can't miss it. There is also the lock nut you have to unscrew first. When tightening the big bolt, its very sensitive, just go 1mm by 1mm and if you make it too tight, the steering will feel hard and dont forget to re-tighten the lock nut.

ok good info . so i need to buy those blocks new ? or what to do with them ?
do i need to remove rack or just disconnect tie rods and lower it or leave it in place just tighten that bolt and try again .
if it will be that easy i will be so happy .
what about universal joint ? people talking that can be bad
you mean that thing ?

should i maybe remove bolts first and clean inside clean spring and then put it back ?

rubber things maybe you mean steering rack bushings ?

 

[jf1sf5]

If you are able to tighten the big bolt without removing the rack, do it. Otherwise, just take off the 4 screws to do the job easily. You don't need to disconnect the tie rods.

Rubber silent-blocks is probably what you name steering rack bushings !

 

[scalman]

hmm but that bolt is so small there. and it was not loose. that top bolt is wrench 14' and its not space to move it when you put it on. and it was not secure as well. so if i remove those screws that holds rack will it move like down ? still my uel headers are in the way they right there.
but for bolt its doesnt looks loose or anything.

 

[jf1sf5]

The big bolt isn't loose for sure but with time it doesn't hold the steering shaft properly and you get some play/noise/clicking.

 

[scalman]

but how i can tight it more if i can. relase that big one and then tight small one ? because that small one doesnt turn now at all. i need to lower down all rack otherwise not sure i could release that big bolt. just no space there to put any kind of tool.

 

[jf1sf5]

Yes, release the external lock nut first, tighten the center bolt a very little and re-tighten the external lock nut. I didn't take everything apart and didn't clean the interior.