SG Forester 1" spacer on raised springs?

lefty

lefty

Forum Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2008
Messages
900
Location
Perth Australia
Car Year
MY05
Car Model
Forester
Transmission
XT lux manual
sorry to bring up this old chestnut again.
I have an SG forester with 1" raised Kings on KYB struts. Not ideal offroad combo but I'm mainly onroad and running a thicker rear swaybar anyway.
Ride is not harsh as reported, wife and kids have not complained.
I am looking to raise another inch with 1" strut top spacers.
Regarding CV joints I am reading conflicting reports saying they are fine and other saying they will stress out the CVs.
Will putting the 1" spacers cause problems?
 
Short answer - no! I have a lot more lift on mine and CVs are fine.
 
thanks Kevin
do you also run body spacers?
 
Can confirm raised springs & 1" spacers are fine for the CVs. You'll also need 2" trailing arm spacers to keep the rear wheels centred. Feel free to PM me for details :)
 
Are the trailing arm spacers absolutely necessary ? I have a 4cm gap from rear wheel to wheelarch at the moment.
 
Not absolutely necessary as I ran with raised springs and strut top lift blocks without trailing arm spacers until my suspension was reworked with the custom struts. Just check the gap when the suspension is fully extended / compressed.
 
Trailing arm spacers will only be necessary if you are running larger tyres.


Lifted springs and 1" spacers means you will have a 2" lift without any camber or caster offset. So you will probably need aftermarket camber bolts for good camber alignment.
 
finished install but looks like a ridiculous amount of positive camber.
Are aftermarket camber bolts the only answer?


34782444_10156488350193756_1442493426678366208_o.jpg


34750909_10156488350443756_1235431648883900416_n.jpg
 
Camber bolts are the best cost vs quality method. Make sure you get the correct rating. From memory the stock bolts are grade 8 and you need grade 12.9 when doing camber bolts as they are a smaller effective diameter.



The camber bolts at Repco where the right rating and not that expensive.


You can elongate the hole to fix the camber, but I don't recommend that way. Longer control arms are expensive. Adjustable tophats are more expensive then camber bolts. Lowering the diff would also work, but then you loose ground clearance. So just go the camber bolt method...
 
[FONT=&quot]Any time you change the ride height, you need aftermarket camber bolts for the rear to be able to adjust the camber (the front has factory camber bolts but not the rear). Yes there are other ways but way more expensive & more difficult.
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[FONT=&quot]They need to be 14mm, grade 12.9, like Nolathane 44260 which is what I use. You can get them from eBay or autoparts stores like Repco [/FONT]
 
I don't think mine were Whiteline and mine were a lighter colour then that picture, but don't remember brand so not sure...


Worth asking where ever you buy them from that the grade is correct.


Edit: Yeah pretty sure they were Nolathane that I got from Repco, thanks Nachaluva
 
thanks $25 on ebay for the Nolathanes.
Is it worth getting longer sway bar endlinks?

I'm 99% of the time on road so swaybar stays on :)
 
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