Ej22 leaking oil from front end

raynman1989

Forum Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2015
Messages
31
Location
Australia
Car Year
1990
Car Model
L series
Transmission
Manual
Gday

Ive got an ej22 that recently started dropping a fair bit of oil from the front end. Thinking it was the cam seals I've taken the timing belt off but i can't see exactly where it's leaking except it's definitely not the cam seals. And ideas where it could be coming from? Also i haven't had the car long and i can't remember if it had the timing belt done or not before i got it ( it's done nearly 200000) nothing looks worn and the cam seals have definitely been done at some stage. Should i just do the whole thing while it's all apart? Is there any way to tell if the timing belt and anything else needs doing?

Sorry if it doesn't make much sense i struggle putting thoughts into words haha.

Cheers
 
If in doubt about the timing belt replace it, especially if there's oil on it. Perhaps the crankshaft seal is leaking? Exactly where can you see the oil?
 
Well you've done the hard bit - you should replace while you're there:
- cam seals
- timing belt + idlers (get the kit)
- water pump
- front main seal - on oil pump

it may be the oil pump is not seated properly and the seal against the block is leaking - the screws holding it on sometimes back out, so I hear.

My bet is the oil pump if there's no evidence of the cam seals leaking.
 
As far as i can tell it looks like it's coming from the middle bottom pulley (not sure what it's called) i guess if i just replace everything then it should fix the problem right haha
 
Looks like it's the crankshaft leaking then and I'll replace everything else why I'm at it. One other thing while I'm here would anyone have any idea what would be causing a flat spot between 1000-2000 rpm?
 
Ahh yeah didn't think of that. Cheers I'll give it a clean.
 
Be careful cleaning the AFM, it can easily be damaged, then it won't work at all.

Unlikely that the oil pump is leaking. I'd put money on the crank seal not fitted properly or has gone very hard and is leaking.

Cheers

Bennie
 
How exactly should i clean the afm?

Yeah I've ordered a new timing belt+crank seal+cam seals+waterpump so should be all good onve I get them installed
 
Afm cleaning has been done by others with a non lubricating contact cleaner - one that evaporates without leaving anything behind. Ensure the one you use does not have a silicone lubricant ;)

Cheers

Bennie
 
Also do i need to replace the hydraulic tensionioner and the pulley? They seem to be rather expensive and difficult to source.
 
I'd definitely replace the tensioners while you're in there.
 
As in just the tensioner pulley? I've seen some timing belt kits come with the tensioner mechanism and the hydraulic T but are they necessary?
 
The complete tensioner. Unless of course you can satisfy yourself that the tensioners will last another 100-150K kilometres.
 
The main worry with tensioners and idlers is the bearings failing.

I don't think the tensioner mechanism itself is prone to failure. If you're happy not replacing that.. well just make sure you replace all the idler pulleys, including the tensioner one.

Personally, I'd spend the extra money and change it all over for the peace of mind - they're not hard to find. Kits with everything including water pump are less than AU$400

If you've got the rest of the kit, and now just need the tensioner -- places like partsouq have OEM for about $90 plus shipping, or local online places seem to have them for about double that. Is the EJ22 the dayco HAT07 type ?

EJ22 is non-interference - so the consequences of timing belt failure are much less severe, at least.
 
duncanm said:
EJ22 is non-interference - so the consequences of timing belt failure are much less severe, at least.
Click to expand...

Gen1 units with the hydraulic lash adjusters are non-interference. The Gen2 units with the roller rocker style are interference from what I've read.

If you've got the piston type tensioner, they're good if they're not showing signs of leaking. I've "re-used" mine about three times now without issues.

If you've got the one built into the arm of the tensioner, I'd replace that one.

And I'd certainly be getting all new idler pulleys for fresh bearings. Throwing a bearing and skipping cam/crank teeth is not fun (been there, done that).

Cheers

Bennie
 
Yeah I'm getting all new idlers just wasn't sure about the tensioner. I've got the one where it's all one part, the hydraulic bit is built into the arm so I'll replace that then. Are they all the same? Because all the ones that style I can find online are listed for post 96 ej22s
 
They're all the same.

If you wanted the old piston style you need the backing plate that matches the hydraulic tensioner.

I reckon you'll find many earlier EJ22's have been converted to the newer style tensioner for ease of replacement parts/mechanic peferred the new bits.

Cheers

Bennie
 
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