Leone/L Series Engine Swap

[charliemi16]

Hello everyone,

Firstly, let me introduce myself. I'm Charlie, a welshman, currently living in New Zealand. New to the forum. Looks great. Plenty of knowledge.

I have an 86 Leone/L Series, that I love. It's awesome!. However, it could do with a bit more poke. So, I'm considering an engine conversion. I've also recently picked up an early legacy (91, manual, hi/low box, 1.8)

Question:
1. Is it even worth looking at putting another 1800cc into it, albeit an EJ, or should I look at a larger capacity? I have a whole car here that I can use as a donor, and the 2.2's seem to be rare here in NZ, particularly with the high/low box, that I would like to retain. What are the advantages/disadvantages of each capacity. Are all 1.8's single point injection, or are some carb'd?

2. I assume my box will mate straight to a 2.2? Are auto engines, timing, mapping etc etc any different? They are easier to come by here.

3. Do you need to modify propshafts for the conversion? Will the EJ box mate straight to the L series rear diff?

4. Anything else I need to know, or should consider?

Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

Also, where so you guys get your parts? I could do with giving the suspension a bit of a refresh, and I'm struggling to find parts over here.

Cheers

Charlie

 

[El_Freddo]

Welcome to the forum mate!

1. In my opinion, not really. Find an EJ22, they're worth it. I've heard the EJ18 can be heavy on the fuel for several reasons - one is that they don't have a cam sensor to better monitor engine timing, another is that the lower capacity works the engine harder in such a large vehicle like the legacy.
The units I've seen are multi port injection, I didn't know Subaru did single port injection on the EJ series engines. You can get factory EJ carb'd units. We didn't get them over here but I've heard they're common in the latin American market.

2. The EJ22 will mate to the EJ18 gearbox. Use the flywheel and clutch setup from the EJ18, it'll be fine and work properly etc.
As for timing and mapping of the auto engines, they're the same for both auto and manual. In the wiring there's one different wire in the auto/manual setup - I can't remember but you just ground this for use in a manual. I'd definitely be going for the EJ22. Mine goes great in the L

3. If you're using the EJ gearbox you'll need custom prop shaft, linkages and gearbox crossmember. Use the rear diff from the donor vehicle as it'll be the same ratio as the box and is the same diff, just bolted in differently between the L and the legacy.

4. If you're going to use the EJ box you *should* go up a tyre size to match that of the legacy as this will keep your gear ratios as factory. If not you'll be revving quite high at cruising speed and your speedo will be out.
Depending on what your plans are for the vehicle will depend on what you do gearbox wise. If lifting and running ~27 inch tyres I'd go for a 2L foz box as it's got he matched diff ratio to tyre diametre and the decent EJ low range of 1.477:1 - not as good as the L's low range of 1.59:1 though.

So many ways you could go on this one. I'd recommend the EJ22 - the same amount of work for better grunt.

Also, don't go for an exhaust over 2 inches diametre. A mate's dad is an exhaust builder that told me my 2.25 inch exhaust (cat back) is too big for the engine and I'd be loosing performance or fuel economy.

Cheers

Bennie

 

[Kevin]

^ the usual fantastic advice from Bennie; thanks.

Welcome aboard Charlie!

 

[charliemi16]

Hi guys,

Bennie, thanks so much for all of the advice. Seems like you're a bit of an L series oracle

So, I'll keep an eye out for a Ej22 then.

Can you mod the prop yourself, or does it need to be balanced?
I assume with the wiring, you just work from the diagrams, and cut out what you don't need? Do you need to get behind the L series dash, or can you just splice in the EJ22 engine loom in the engine bay?

Cheers

Charlie

 

[El_Freddo]

Bennie, thanks so much for all of the advice. Seems like you're a bit of an L series oracle

No worries mate. I dunno about the oracle bit - I've just played with them heaps over the last ten years (one specifically actually).

As for your other questions - there are many ways to skin a cat so to speak with the wiring layout. I've seen conversions where the wiring is laid out around the engine bay with the ECU inside an army ammo box mounted where the spare tyre used to be.
Mine was done with front guards off, dash out and the wiring laid out as close as it was in the liberty for that "factory look" conversion".
You follow the wiring diagrams and cut out what you don't need. I did mine by stripping all the wrapping off the wiring, then following each engine plug back to the ECU area I taped up the groups of wires until I got to a big junction, then I'd start on another plug. Continue this process until you've got everything you need taped between the engine plugs and the ECU plugs. Follow those odd wires that end up in another plug with other wires, just mark that single or pair of wires that you need.
Then cut out everything you don't need. Those odd wires sharing plugs with other wires you don't need will usually be things like oil light, alt light, AC switch wires etc. You'll work that out from the diagrams (which I no longer have links to but should be in the FSM).

Also, I forgot to mention that it is possible to modify an intake manifold (TIG work required) and run a ford escort dizzy off the back of the driver's side head for a traditional carb/dizzy setup. From what I understand you need to make up a bracket to adapt this dizzy to the EJ head. You can read up more on that here by Phinzinza and have a read of Toonga's thread on PJ and his EJ carb conversion here

Tail shaft - if you've got a mate with a lathe you could do it yourself ensuring the weld/shaft is straight. This *should* in theory produce a shaft that is balanced enough that it'll work well. Always only modify the rear joint, if the weld snaps the shaft will drop out from under the vehicle. If you do a front joint and this happens you'll roll the car when the shaft digs into the ground.
Otherwise a professional job would be best if you're not confident in a DIY unit.

Cheers

Bennie