CV Joints - replacement

Barra

Forum Member
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
33
Location
Brisbane
Car Year
1986
Car Model
Brumby
Transmission
4 speed manual
Hi Folks,

I am attempting to "do" the CV joints in my '86 Brumby, never done this type of thing before.
Is it easier to just replace the CVs joints or go whole hog and replace with the driveshaft as one unit like you buy on ebay?

Any tips also appreciated.

Barra
 
Gidday Barra

Our mechanic of about the last 15+ years reckons that fully reconditioned shafts are better and cheaper than he can pull one CV joint apart, clean, grease and re-boot it.

As he says, a factory reconditioned shaft will have new boots, new cage, new balls and re-machined races. Make sure you get such shaft/s from a decent supplier.

Having pulled CV joints apart a long time ago, it is a filthy, difficult and time consuming job. In those days they were horrendously expensive, so it was (barely) worth doing.
 
Thanks for that Ratbag,

If it's easier, that's the way I'll go.

Any recommendations in regards to suppliers, the price ranges from say $99 up to $300 each, no doubt there are quality issues, but if any can recommend a supplier I would be interested to hear.

All the best folks,

Barra
 
I don't know where Ross (our mechanic) sources his from, however he charged around $250 each to replace a shaft in each of our 94 Camry and 93 Impreza. That was quite a few years ago - 6-8 years.

He never takes the cheap and cheerful route. No vehicle ever leaves his care without everything being checked.

When it appeared that the radiator core in Roo2 might have been slightly damaged by one of his mechanics during the 125K service, he replaced it with a new one at his expense ... He's THAT kind of person.
 
That's the sort of mechanic you want, sounds like Pete and Clyde at Custom VW in Brisbane (I use them exclusively for my 76 Kombi), they're awesome also. Goes to show they're are still good, honest mechanics out there, the trick is to find them and them stick to them like glue.
 
If you're going to DIY it definitely get your self a CV band tool - makes it 1000 times easier to get those bands on tight and properly!

I only ever play with joints if there's a split boot. I'm not even sure if you can get the inner joints these days.

My previous experience with getting factory units reconditioned has been NIL due to the ease of buying a whole new cheap unit compared to the cost of the reconditioning.

As for what's best, good question. I'm over cheap shafts - if 4wd'n regularly like I used to I'd be up for a front set each year. Swapping them out is easy enough, it's the bank account that complains...

Cheers

Bennie
 
The Band Tool arrived yesterday :)
Ordered full assemblies for both sides, so hopefully wont be too difficult (but haven't done them before so we'll see).
I won't be doing much four wheel driving, probably only use 4wd when pulling my tinnie up a slippery boat ramp, so (and may regret it) went for some ebay cheapies :(
 
I have been doing my own car and motorcycle work since I was 14, BUT IF you can find a good place it is way easier and cheaper to get them to do it ( unless you want the experience of course).
When I had my first suby in the 80's found a fantastic place in Townsville that did it in a morning with NEW parts for less than I could buy the parts for.
 
I enjoyed the good old days.
But must admit, I am enjoying the experiences.:raz:
 
The CV`s on my old MY 80 were very fast and simple, if very greasy, to pull apart, clean, and replace.
Can`t comment on an 86 Brumby though and my MY02 Forester is a pig.
 
Why not use Utilux type hose clamps to hold the boots on? I use two at 180 degrees apart, tightened equally from both sides to keep the shaft in balance. Also much easier to nip up in situ if it leaks, which replacement ones often do.
 
ateday said:
I use two at 180 degrees apart, tightened equally from both sides to keep the shaft in balance.
Click to expand...

I use hose clamps to, only one though. I know the theory of balance, hasn't made any difference in my case.
 
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