Forester Rear Drive shafts

piece of cake
Wheel off,
undo 32mm driveshaft nut**
undo bolt through lateral arms and hub
remove shaft.



**if the nut has never been off, it'll be bl00dy tight
remember to punch out the nut from the locking slot in the shaft.
 
Sounds too easy thanks!

I can remember bending a length of pipe on a breaker bar when removing the driveshaft nut on the old liberty.
 
Job is easier than front shafts, Just need to make sure you've the right shafts, some have external stubs, some go into the diff, and the some of the lsds have od splines from ds - p/s.

Also, the only brand of shafts I've had fail on me are gsp, even secondhand genuine ntn have lasted longer. Although that is only from 1 set of shafts, and it took them 2 tries from the factory to get two identical shafts with the same part number, as apposed to two shafts with the same part numbers with odd lengths and weights.
 
That through bolt is a thorn in my side every time I have to do a rear axle or bearing. Just a small tip, if it's rust welded let it soak for a while with penetrant. If that still doesn't work (a breaker bar isn't a good idea on this bolt, ask me how I know. Lol) disconnect the rear arms from the inner mounting points. They come out much easier and if they snap are easier to replace. Mark the concentric or just get it realigned after.

Just my .02. Good luck.
 
Actually, now that I'm thinking about it, for axles I think I usually disconnect the strut and trailing arm and fold the spindle down. In any case, that through bolt can be a burden.
 
It ended up being a 20 minute job, one of the easiest repairs I've done.
Thanks to everyone for the technical advice.
 
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