Removing the SLS system

Doug86

Forum Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2013
Messages
110
Location
Adelaide Hills, South Australia
Car Year
2006
Car Model
Forester XT
Transmission
Manual
Hey fellow ORSers,

I have finally got all the gear I need to do my suspension change over. Having dealt with spring compressors and the associated hospital trip before I am hesitant but given the twin jaw compressors over the old single ones i am more confident we can do this without a trip to the ED :)

So, the next thing for me is the SLS system. How hard is it to remove and what are the traps I should be looking for? I havent really had too much of a poke around to see yet but from what I have seen there is the struts (which are going, replaced by Gabriel struts), the SLS unit itself, some sort of link between the unit and the struts and the level arm attached to the suspension.

Do I need to remove all of this? or more importantly, is there anything that I should be leaving behind?
 
tip for doing them without compressors
have 2 jacks, one under the suspension arm, one under the body.

loosen the bolts holding the top hat to the body, a few turns
undo the single top nut holding the hat to the strut shaft
lower the suspension jack and undo the lower bolts.
voilla, springs uncompressed.

install in the reverse manner
 
Thanks for the link HC :)

My question is more around the removal of the actual SLS system itself, not the struts. Is anything on the car going to chuck a wobbly if I just remove the whole setup?
 
No,

the Self Leveling is built into the rear struts only
 
my KYB and Kings arrived too so I will be doing the same thing.
the SLS canister can't be separated from the strut.
Removing the top nut can be tricky because you need an allen key to stop the whole thing from spinning unless you have a hollow socket. I managed to undo it by using a stilson wrench to grab the shaft while I undid the nut
 
Aim the strut out the shed door, undo with rattle gun, aim for one of the ******* rabbits that's digging up the driveway.
 
taza said:
2 hour job to change the resr shocks and springs. Just use common sence. A rattle/impact gun will make life real easy!
Click to expand...

have you managed to find those tophats Taza?
it would save me a heap of time
 
taza said:
2 hour job to change the resr shocks and springs. Just use common sense. A rattle/impact gun will make life real easy!
Click to expand...

Agreed on the Rattle-gun, that's how you can do it with tops in the car
if you're the person who will do their own suspension, just invest in a gun, even the small 250Nm 1/2"dr guns are more than enough for just about anything you can do at home.
wheels, all suspension bolts, etc

2 hours for rear shocks and springs...?
how many cans do you sink doing that Taza..., must be one for every nut you undo...

Also a tip for young players, jack up both rear wheels and you usually don't need to undo swaybars as it will drop accordingly, only jacking you one wheel means the swaybar is working against you
 
Robbks said:
Agreed on the Rattle-gun, that's how you can do it with tops in the car
if you're the person who will do their own suspension, just invest in a gun, even the small 250Nm 1/2"dr guns are more than enough for just about anything you can do at home.
wheels, all suspension bolts, etc
Click to expand...

I would love one! Pretty expensive though. The 240V ones are much cheaperr & more powerful but I'm hesitant to buy anything not cordless...so 80s lol :rolleyes:

2 hours for rear shocks and springs...?
how many cans do you sink doing that Taza..., must be one for every nut you undo...
Click to expand...
:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:
 
$200 for a skin (bosch/ makita) and about $100 for a battery.

I needed a new drill, wanted an impact driver and hoped for a Rattle gun

Got the Milwaukee Kit on sale for $900
600Nm Rattle Gun
Drill
Rattler
Grinder (best thing ever)
2x 3AH batteries.

You can ALWAYS justify tools to SWMBO, you just tell them that the tools will save thousands in labour and you an have a handbag/ shoes with the savings
 
Robbks said:
Also a tip for young players, jack up both rear wheels and you usually don't need to undo swaybars as it will drop accordingly, only jacking you one wheel means the swaybar is working against you
Click to expand...

good tip thanks
had a bit of time this morning to get the rears out.
I'm hoping I won't need longer rear swaybar endlinks with the 30mm lift
 
lefty said:
good tip thanks
had a bit of time this morning to get the rears out.
I'm hoping I won't need longer rear swaybar endlinks with the 30mm lift
Click to expand...

Lefty you don't need them. I still have my original links in with my raised Kings and 1 inch strut top lift. When they eventually shag out I will put in Nolathane universal ones that you cut to the required length. I don't bother disconnecting when off road. Too much effort.
 
Cheers for all the tips guys. Still havent got round to it as I have been shifting house. Poor forster didnt like the load on the busted shock...all i can say is good thing i am replacing the bump stops too!

I dont have my rear sway bar on at the moment so no hassle there. though I will jack the whole thing up and throw it on the chassis stands.
 
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