An alternative to a dedicated CEL code scanner

Ratbag

Ratbag

Administrator
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
7,470
Location
Bayside, Melbourne, Vic
Car Year
MY06, MY10
Car Model
Forester SG & SH
Transmission
5MT/DR & 4EAT Sports
Gidday Folks

As mentioned here:

https://www.offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=5896

I ordered a cheap, knock-off Bluetooth scanner to use in both our cars.

This one arrived on Christmas Eve:

https://www.banggood.com/V2_1-Super-Mini-ELM327-Bluetooth-OBD2-Scanne-CAN-BUS-Supports-p-951062.html

This reader from Banggood cost AUD$11.83 total, including the AUD$1.60 airmail postage, and appears to work properly in both our SG (series II) and SH (series I). The former is straight OBDII, and I understand that the latter is OBDII and CAN-BUS, so the cars are slightly different from each other.

This company sells a lot of these that all look very similar to each other, but are subtly different. The above one is v.2.1 of their product, and supports both OBDII and OBDII over CAN-BUS.

I downloaded the Torque Pro (free) s/w from Google Play Store and installed it on my tablet. The initial Bluetooth pairing and working went quickly and easily. Apart from the fact that nowhere is it mentioned that the dongle's Bluetooth pairing code is "1234". I worked this out, after trying the other common code, "0000" ...

After removing and refitting the dongle, there was some kind of problem with the communication between the dongle and the tablet. It appears that I had not quite fully inserted the dongle into the OBDII socket in the SG. The SG has a shroud around the socket that makes fitting and removing the dongle difficult - think in terms of large needle-nose pliers!

The plug in the SH is not shrouded, but quite exposed, so it is very easy to remove and re-fit. Maybe I'll just lash out and buy a dedicated dongle for it. At this price, it's hardly even worth the hassle of removing the dongle from the SG once more ...

I should mention that this dongle fits completely within the shrouded hole in the SG steering column cover. So completely that one needs the abovementioned needle nose pliers to remove it!

Secondly, do NOT use the bundled s/w. My anti-virus s/w had a conniption fit even thinking about looking at it!
Besides, Torque Pro (free) does most things, and I will spring the AUD$4.95 to buy the full version.

Having a scan tool permanently installed in both cars at a cost of less than $30, delivered, is very enticing ... :iconwink: :cool:.

The Torque Pro s/w is not very intuitive initially, but once one realises that one needs to press and hold the screen to add or move/delete items, it is easy to use. Some items offer both a dial or display, but do not necessarily work well if the wrong type is selected - e.g. Litres/100 Kms only works as a display, not as a dial - etc.

There are 7 pages of screens available to be set up as one desires.

Fault codes are accessed via the s/w menu system. It will display Logged faults, Pending faults and Historic faults, and gives the option to clear logged fault(s).

Some items (e.g. ambient temperature) work in the SH, but not in the SG. Both have ambient temperature displays in the dash, so a bit strange.

I will add anything else I think of as I go along ... :).
 
BTW, it's worth repeating what Kevin has said that some codes clear themselves after a certain number of re-starts.

Also that these little tools are as essential to have with any modern car as a shifting spanner and screwdriver were in the olden days (and still are today ... ).

However, neither the entry level scan tool nor the shifting spanner and screwdriver are meant to be any kind of replacement for a good mechanic with a fully equipped workshop and a professional workshop code scanner!

It is a patent nonsense to suggest that an amateur using the above can be any kind of replacement for a mechanic with a full set of workshop tools and a professional scan tool costing thousands of dollars.

It should also be mentioned that said mechanic has also paid for the lists of proprietary codes that even OBDII compliant manufacturers seem to love putting into their ECUs ...
 
I have access to a few business trade grade scan tools which do the job for me. I also have an Ultra Gauge which is handy to have as its very portable.
planning to purchase a Hannahtec scantool myself when the bank account allows. This will assist me both personally and professionaly.
 
^ Handy ... :poke: :).

Another small 'wrinkle' I think I've discovered is that the dongle and the reader device can only pair when the ignition is completely off. Not sure about this, but this happened to me today when pairing my phone with the dongle.

It might just be a bug in the free version of the s/w. I am not planning on installing the paid version until I have sorted out the tablet's microSD card problem with HP.
 
taza said:
I have access to a few business trade grade scan tools which do the job for me. I also have an Ultra Gauge which is handy to have as its very portable.
planning to purchase a Hannahtec scantool myself when the bank account allows. This will assist me both personally and professionaly.
Click to expand...

I had an Ultra Gauge in my 2003 XS Forester and loved it, I took it out when I gave the car to my daughter, The Minister for War & Finance :lol: would go ape if I put it in our new CRV. :sad:
 
Gidday Peter

It would seem that the path I have followed (with a LOT of help and info from others, here and elsewhere) would probably suit both you and the Minister for Internal and External Affairs ... :poke: :lol: :rotfl:.
 
I have been using this for a few years now and run Torque Lite. It's a bit bigger which makes it easy to pull out in the SG foz. I don't leave it plugged in permanently because the LED lights up even if the car is off, so it will eventually drain the car battery (will probably take a long time though)

$_12.JPG
 
^ I think that's the answer, Lefty.

It seems that the OBD port is constantly on with our Subies. The adapter cannot be found by torque unless the adapter is switched off with the ignition, and it isn't!

Maybe I'll put the short one in the SH (no shroud) and buy a longer one for my SG.

Probably easier to just change the power going to the OBD port so that it is switched through the ignition switch. IF I only knew how to do this ... :confused:.
 
Google obdii pin out and switch the 12v with an acc power from your ciglighter or uhf.

Edit: second thoughts might be easier to negatively switch it,
 
Last edited:
^ Thanks for that, Id.

I think I've even seen that on Wikipedia or somewhere.

As I need to find such a power source for my UHF anyway, it seems like a good time to rectify this minor problem.

I also need to change all my cigarette lighter sockets to constant on.
 
Now here's a thought. Kill two birds with one stone ...

Jumper the feed wire from the battery to the relay that feeds ignition switched power to the accessory outlets directly to said outlets - i. e. unswitched.

Then use the switched output side of that relay to feed the OBD port and my UHF ...
 
One of the "popular" ways to get permanently-on auxiliary outlets is to pull the two relays out and bridge the contact slots in the bases - the power to the contacts is permanent-on.

However ... I'd be a bit cautious about going that route, for two reasons. Firstly, the wiring to the factory outlets is a tad puny (as all manufacturers strive to use as little copper as they can). So for any decent CONTINUOUS load I would seriously consider added dedicated outlets. Second reason hinges on what appliances you plan on powering from these outlets - are they really needing permanent power? I have seen this lead to flat batteries more times than I can count. I appreciate that for LED camping lights etc etc things are unlikely to go pear-shaped froma load left on unintentionally, but just pop over to the current (ouch!) "Alternatives ... CEL" thread and even a wifi/BT dongle can be a concern in this regard, as can an idling CB. Sometimes there is a better/smarter solution.
 
Gidday Zippo

Good points. What I plan to do is leave the relays in place and wired up, but not to the three accessory outlets.

Break into the wire before it gets to the relay, and take power off for the accessories from there.

The biggest drains are laptop charger (4.5A at 16V, with 12V input, almost always when travelling), car fridge (90W, 7.5A @ 12V, but will be on gas when camped), the charger for the secondary battery (2.5A @ 12V; it has an 18AH sealed lead acid battery in it) and all the miscellaneous USB items that will be plugged into a USB hub running off the secondary battery.

My tablet will run for about 2-3 days with light to medium use; over 12 hours with continuous use. It will charge at 2A if it's available.

Camp lights are either LED lanterns powered by 3x1.5V dry cells or rechargeables and a swag of LED strip lights that I will fix onto the tent hoops.

I am sure that I will need to review all this after my first trip, or during it! :lol: :rotfl:
 
Don't muck with the power. The constant 12v positive comes fromthe he ecu. Do not prob with a test light either unless you want to waste thousands on a new ecu!
 
Got my Mini ELM327 V1.5 today and tried it out. While it is paired with my tablet the torque app has difficulty in connecting to it. Might be because it is the 1.5 and not the 2.1 version that you have.
 
With mine, it remains paired, but the app cannot find the dongle unless I unplug it and then plug it back in.

Apparently this is because the Subie OBDII port is not switched - it is always on. The app can only find the dongle if it is switched on at around the same time as the app is started.

I have asked the developer if this bug is fixed in the "pro" ( i.e. the paid version ... ), but have not received any response from him ... :(.

Try the above, and see if it works?
 
Ratbag said:
With mine, it remains paired, but the app cannot find the dongle unless I unplug it and then plug it back in.

Apparently this is because the Subie OBDII port is not switched - it is always on. The app can only find the dongle if it is switched on at around the same time as the app is started.

I have asked the developer if this bug is fixed in the "pro" ( i.e. the paid version ... ), but have not received any response from him ... :(.

Try the above, and see if it works?
Click to expand...

So start up the app, then plug in the dongle? Or plug in dongle then app?
 
AFAICS, that doesn't matter, just so long as they are both 'powered up' at about the same time - i.e. within about 30-40 seconds of each other.

It seems that the dongle stops broadcasting its presence after a short time, and the app goes into an endless loop if it can't find the dongle within a certain time ...
 
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