EA82 Idle Speed Adjustment

Subiepower

Subiepower

Forum Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
14
Location
Millicent, SA
Car Year
1988
Car Model
L Series
Transmission
5spd Manual
Hey guys!

My L Series wagon seems to be idling slightly lower than it should be. At idle the 'charge' dash light and a couple of others come on just slightly, and go out if I rest my foot on the throttle to bring the revs up slightly. Just wondering how I would go about adjusting it?
 
UPDATE

I have discovered tonight while out adjusting my driving lights that the 'charge', 'brake fluid' and 'stop lamp' dash lights remain on while the driving lights are on, and go out when I turn them off. Thinking this is something to do with the lights drawing too much power or the alternator not putting out enough power.
 
Gidday SP

Have you checked the drive belt for cracks, glazing and tension?
 
Is it really slower idling, or is that just an impression? If it is slower, that needs addressing first, and any electrical resolution follows. Check the idle with NO accessories running, to minimise alternator loading.

From the electrical standpoint, low battery voltage in conjunction with low alternator output (for whatever reason) would fit those observations. And bearing in mind that low battery voltage is often the direct result of low alternator output, that's where I'd be looking. (I'm assuming that you would be aware if you had belt slip). Grab a half-decent digital multimeter and check the voltage at (a) the alternator output terminal and (b) the battery while the engine is idling and say headlights on. Then check as you raise the revs towards 2000 and see what is happening. Also check with the meter+ on the ALT+ and the meter- on the BAT+ so you can see how much voltage drop across that connection.

A quicker diagnosis would result if you had a tong-tester with DC-current capability, but not everyone has one.
 
Last edited:
The alternator could of dropped a phase in the stator.. Had the exact same thing happen in my brumby.
Otherwise it could be bad earth/s or low idle.
The idle is easy to adjust. Use a flat blade screw driver.. ita on the front of the carby just below the air cleaner housing. Just watch out as there are two screws. One is a/f ratio adjustment, the other is idle speed. If it doesn't change the idle straight away then you need turn it back to where it was.
 
Subiepower this could be a very long shot. Have you checked the fuel lines to your fuel filters? One I had many moons ago had a similar symptom - idle not normal - low and lumpy and no guts going up a steep pull. Was starving for fuel hence making the alternator lights show because a fuel line was crimped. Hope you find your problem.

Best regards,
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I'll go through and try everything that's been suggested and post up my findings when i'm done.
 
Have got some results for everyone:

The drive belt was replaced less than 2k kms ago and is correctly adjusted.
When not running - 12.6v at battery
At idle with no accessories turned on - 14.12v at battery
With all accessories on at idle - 12.2v at battery
Alternator output was consistently high 13's to low 14v
At 2000rpm - 12.7v

Beginning to think taza is correct and there is an earthing problem somewhere. Last January we did have the dash out trying to stop a vacuum hose leak, not sure if it had this problem before that or not but could have something to do with it.

Sped the idle up a little which seems to have gotten rid of the problem at idle with no accessories, but it's still happening with accessories on.
 
Subiepower said:
Have got some results for everyone:

The drive belt was replaced less than 2k kms ago and is correctly adjusted.
When not running - 12.6v at battery
At idle with no accessories turned on - 14.12v at battery
Click to expand...
Good.
Subiepower said:
With all accessories on at idle - 12.2v at battery
Alternator output was consistently high 13's to low 14v
At 2000rpm - 12.7v
Click to expand...
If the voltage at the alternator is "up there" while the loaded battery volts are noticeably lower, then there are two possibilities for the lost volts:
1. - earthing issues IN THE ALTERNATOR/BATTERY CIRCUIT (and not elsewhere).
2. - poor joints in the + connection between alternator and battery (including any fusible links that *may* be in that connection.

Doing the alt+<->bat+ voltmeter check will isolate which it is.
 
Will be replacing the brushes in the alternator probably after Christmas so hopefully that helps the problem. If not then i'll have a look at the regulator. Thanks for your help everyone.
 
It's an alternator issue you're experiencing there. Mine did this just before the alternator threw a bearing and shat itself.

I don't know if brushes are the fix or if it needs to be rewound - I swapped in another alternator to solve the issue.

Call me crazy - but run the vehicle with out the alternator connected/spinning and you'll have all the same lights you've described still lit up like a christmas tree.

Cheers

Bennie
 
Having removed the alternator this morning to inspect it, I found that the plug into the back of the alternator was fairly fouled and corroded. Having remedied this problem, the original problem seems to have stopped and I am now getting correct voltages everywhere. Thanks for all the help guys!
 
Glad that you have found the cause, SP ... :).

Many, many electrical problems come down to poor connection, either earth (extremely common), or a directly bad active connection somewhere.
 
Fix one problem and another arises.. Since adjusting the idle the engine has been running on once the ignition is turned off and the key removed. Just can't win...
 
Check the anti-dieseling solenoid on the carb is working properly, it should shut off the fuel supply after ignition shut off.

It also indicates that you have quite a carbon build up on the pistons/combustion chamber. One way of clearing this carbon build up is to remove the lid on the air filter, start the engine and get it up to temp, taking it for a small drive before starting this will ensure all engine parts are up to temp.
Have the engine running above idle - 1500-2500 revs gently pour water into the carby intake. Do this a number of times until you're happy. This will change the combustion mixture and create steam in the cylinder that will help remove the carbon build up.

Take the vehicle for a spirited drive and you should be good.

Then see if it runs on after ignition shut off.

Cheers

Bennie
 
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