DIY wheel alignments

Tweaksta

Tweaksta

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
615
Location
McMahons Point, Sydney
Car Year
2000
Transmission
5MT
I've seen a few tools that purport to be able to measure camber (and even castor on some too).

One of them (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sng-61800) looks like a magnet with a spirit level that sticks to your brake rotor and gives a reading. It's meant to be able to measure +/- 3 degrees.

The problem is, what if you have a jack or stand holding up the corner with the wheel off? It wouldn't be an accurate reading would it?

But, if the wheel was on and the car was not on the jack, and if the magnetic spirit level could fit between my wheel spokes onto the brake rotor then that would be more accurate - right?

Basically I just want to zero out the positive camber from my lift....I'll be using bolts but just need a method of measurement.
 
Gidday Tweak

Take it to a proper wheel alignment shop, mate. Our Subies are FAR too sensitive to the slightest incorrectness in this to muck around with it!

Roo2's wheels were all within spec when I had my new tyres fitted, but each wheel was pointing in a different direction ... :(.
It handled like a canal barge ... :puke:.
 
That would be ok to get tha camber approx right before you get a proper wheel alignment. Issue is you need to calibrate it first...

And yes the wheel needs to be on the ground with the cars full weight & the ground flat smooth & level.

With shipping its $63
 
Ok, no probs.

The main reason I need to have a degree of DIY-ability in camber adjustments is because with the lift, the positive camber is visible and the rear end handles horribly - so I'd like to dial that out.

But, when I am touring and there are a few hundred kg on the rear causing droop, I'd probably dial it back to standard for the duration of the trip - then once the load comes out and the back goes back up to full height I can readjust and so forth....
 
I've just used a digital builders level before for the front wheels before, pretty easy to do, hard thing to do is finding a level bit of ground to do it on. the tow is adjustable on the rear but there is no camber adjustment, the tow adjustment is on the trailing arms

https://www.subaruforester.org/vbul...4d1306313953-camber-bolts-wheel-alignment.pdf

Thought I'd try before taking it to the wheel alignment place, they didn't change anything and charged me for the privilege.
 
I tried to install the Whiteline camber bolts in the rears today. Completely exploded the mechanism of my ratchet socket set after extending it with steel pipe. I think I need a solid, fixed spanner/wrench for breaker bar situations.

Does anyone happen to know the exact size I need to get?

Also, what do you guys use - ie: fixed wrench, or fixed socket tool?

Most of the stuff I can find has massive knobbage at the other end so I couldn't whack some pipe on the end for extra leverage when cracking suspension nuts. That's why I really like ratchet socket tools but I guess the ratchet bits can only withstand a certain amount of force. Maybe Snap On or Sidchrome make strong ones...this one was Kinchrome....I'll have to investigate I guess...
 
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^ Gidday Tweak,

The socket will withstand a lot more force than the ratchet mechanism can take .... Something that you have already discovered :(.

Good quality ring spanners are made to withstand a LOT of force, without either breaking, or buggering, the nut/bolt head.
 
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the nut is 19mm, just use your wheel nut wrench with the help of the bar to crack it then use the ratchet. I believe Kincrome is life time warranty, just bring it back.
 
Yeah, never use a ratchet for anything hard. Best to invest in a long breaker bar. I have a 600mm kinchrome BB & if that wont do it I add some pipe

Taza, where did you get a 1200mm BB from? :lildevil:
 
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