Dead lighter socket & it's not the fuse

Tweaksta

Tweaksta

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
615
Location
McMahons Point, Sydney
Car Year
2000
Transmission
5MT
I killed my front 12v accessory socket today running a compressor. I have checked all the fuses and saw that the electric mirrors share the same fuse as the ciggy lighter socket. Is this the same on all models?

Therefore if I did fry the fuse then the mirrors should stop working too (still working fine).

If the fuse is out of the equation, that means I've melted some wiring to (or within) the socket itself.

Where should I start tracing the fault?
 
Wasn't the fuse in the plug, the compressor kept going after I plugged it into the rear socket....

I'll try what pezimm said, I just need to work out how to get behind the socket...

Hopefully it's not going to involve the whole centre console removal - (although while I have the dash apart it would be nice to connect an RCA into the sub-out on my deck for easy sub add-on later).
 
I'm afraid it's a "dash out" sort of case...

You'll get quite good at it eventually, I remember when I first pulled mine apart and how concerned I was of breaking something...

Nowadays I pull it apart to clean it after a trip to the beach or desert. That's how easy it is.

If there's no fuse, you may have popped a terminal or burned a solder. Get a multimeter and test the infer harness to the plug.

Good luck!
 
^ I must say that I'm terrified of pulling my dash apart!

Mainly because of the airbags and stuff, but also because everything's held together with clips, and I'm frightened that I will break them. I prefer screw-type fixings ...
 
Grab a multimeter and check that there is/isn't power at the outlet when the IGN is on. Assuming what I saw in the USDM manual is correct (i.e that they share a common source), if no yippees at the outlet then the problem lies in the connection thereto. Note that although fuses are (meant to be) selected to properly protect the cable in the event of overload, automotive manufacturers invariably skimp rather sadly on wire size. In the case of these front outlets they "presume" you are using a ciggie-lighter i.e. about 1 minute max. With a continuous load (aka your compressor) the wiring IS at risk, as it can't take that sort of current continuously - BUT the fuse would be quite happy conducting 15A until the cows come home.
 
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Okey dokes - it's "dash out" then....hopefully it's easy to find (and not in the twilight zone between the socket and the fuse) :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:.
 
Good luck with your searching, Tweak.

As I know from recent experience with our range hood, these things can be flaming difficult to diagnose, and just as hard to repair.

I hope it turns out to be something easy and simple to fix for you.
 
Could be a fried wire or loose connection. I've had cig lighter sockets come apart in the past (from vibration).
 
Same thing happened to me. The actual sock was bad. theres a small connection at the bottom that overheated and burnt out on mine.
 
Ok, after 6 months of having no front lighter socket and running an extension from the rear I took the dash out today....

All the wiring to the rear of the socket has power - which is good news.

Somewhere in the socket the connection appears to be broken. I pulled it apart and couldn't even find any internal wires, it's all just conductive metal sections with insulators.

I figure it must be like NC Native's issue in the post above - a tiny connection I couldn't see. Since new sockets are so expensive, I might try to locate the dodgy burnt connection and bridge it with some solder. Will keep you all posted...
 
$2 bit of 800 wet n dry, clean the corrosion off the inside of the socket. if you've power to the rear of it that's most likely the cause, the copper contact corrodes and rusts with age and normal use. I did have a spare center dash somewhere I'll check if it has a socket in it.
 
SOLVED!!!

Nice easy solution;

1) Centre console and lower dash out.
2) Disconnect the connector at rear of socket.
3) There is a small fusible-link at the rear of the socket which is not easily visible. When this link blows out it can be bypassed by undoing the centre nut and removing the insulating washer between the two metal conductor rings.
4) Put the two conductors back minus the insulating washer, screw on the centre nut again and you should be away.

This video (on a Camry) shows the exact same problem being fixed: [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2SphvH4Kno"]How to Fix Car Cigarette Lighter - YouTube[/ame]

PLEASE NOTE: This is only a temporary band-aid solution. If possible purchase a replacement socket because this fix removes a layer of current/load protection. This means the wiring could heat up if you overload it.

It is still fused from the fusebox though.
 
It's a fusable link. I bypassed it myself, and it works flawlessly. If you are concerned with it starting a fire, you can always add a fuse in the 12 volt power wire to the back of the socket.

The trunk socket is exactly the same way, it also has a fusable link that can overheat and render the socket useless.
 
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