Advice please

PauSum

PauSum

Forum Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2008
Messages
321
Location
Perth Australia
Car Year
2005 and 2015
Car Model
Forester and Outback
Transmission
5 speed manual and 6 speed CVT
Hi all,

It's time for my MY06 manual Forester to replace the manual and diff oil.

I've some research and come up with the following choices:

Castrol;
Nulon; and
Penrite

Has anyone used any of them? Your comment\advice is really appreciated.

Regards
PauSum
 
Gidday PS

I am having my GB and diff oil changed next week (at 110,000 kms). I am certain that Ross will be putting a Shell FS oil in them. He reckons that it will never have to be done again, barring getting water or other crap in either of them.

He also reckons that these FS GB/Diff oils should last the life of the car under normal circumstances. The only reason I'm having mine changed is that I bought the car s/h, and do not know what might or could have happened to it before I bought it. I also intend to tow my trailer about 5,000-6,000 kms over the next 3 moths or so.
 
It was a while back but I used Castrol Syntrax which did help gear changes to be smoother. Cannot comment on the others as I have not used them.
If you are going to DIY you will also need a very rare Torx 70 (I think).
This bit is not found in any of the usual auto stores like Repco, SCA etc
 
Ratbag said:
Gidday PS

I am having my GB and diff oil changed next week (at 110,000 kms). I am certain that Ross will be putting a Shell FS oil in them. He reckons that it will never have to be done again, barring getting water or other crap in either of them.

He also reckons that these FS GB/Diff oils should last the life of the car under normal circumstances. The only reason I'm having mine changed is that I bought the car s/h, and do not know what might or could have happened to it before I bought it. I also intend to tow my trailer about 5,000-6,000 kms over the next 3 moths or so.
Click to expand...

Thank you Ratbag,

I didn't see shell at all in the auto shops I went to, might have another look.

The reason why I wanted to change them is I can feel the car having some "pulses" moving when (usually) climbing up slopes. This has happened for a while. I just had the HG done last month and the dealer swore to me that the clutch was ok - although they agreed that it was a bit hard. I looked around and think maybe replacing the GB oil hoping to elimiate this as a potential problem as the car has just done 175000km; although I can still change gears with no problem
 
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lefty said:
It was a while back but I used Castrol Syntrax which did help gear changes to be smoother. Cannot comment on the others as I have not used them.
If you are going to DIY you will also need a very rare Torx 70 (I think).
This bit is not found in any of the usual auto stores like Repco, SCA etc
Click to expand...

Yes, I am going to DIY. I realised that I need thr rare Torx 70 (or 30, not hundred percent sure yet)...I couldn't find it in supercheap today.

I might go under the car to take a picture and go to the autoshops to ask...

Yes lefty, you are right, seemd to be Torx 70...
 
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PauSum said:
Thank you Ratbag,

I didn't see shell at all in the auto shops I went to, might have another look.

The reason why I wanted to change them is I can feel the car having some "pulses" moving when (usually) climbing up slopes. This has happened for a while. I just had the HG done last month and the dealer swore to me that the clutch was ok - although they agreed that it was a bit hard. I looked around and think maybe replacing the GB oil hoping to elimiate this as a potential problem as the car has just done 175000km; although I can still change gears with no problem
Click to expand...

The only "symptom" I have is that second can be a bit notchy when the ambient is very cold, and for the first one or two gear changes. Not knowing the previous history of the car, and the cost of a full GB rebuild is what spooks me. I reckon $100-200 now is very cheap insurance.

After that, I will probably never consider doing it again, unless something nasty happens and either of them get water in them. As I will be 'expeditioning' (travelling solo) almost always, I am extremely unlikely to do anything that has even the slightest sniff of 'bravery' about it ... So the above is extremely unlikely to occur.

Shell's complete product guide is available as a PDF here:

https://s02.static-shell.com/conten...data-guide/product-data-guidecomplete2012.pdf

You need to go to around page 42 ...
 
Ratbag said:
and the cost of a full GB rebuild is what spooks me. I reckon $100-200 now is very cheap insurance.

After that, I will probably never consider doing it again, unless something nasty happens and either of them get water in them.
Click to expand...

Totally agree with you!

Ratbag said:
Shell's complete product guide is available as a PDF here:

https://s02.static-shell.com/conten...data-guide/product-data-guidecomplete2012.pdf

You need to go to around page 42 ...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info...definitely a job for a search in the auto shops tomorrow...
 
PauSun,

I have used Castrol multitrax (now called universal) with a nulon additive g70. Completely changed the gear changes.

If you are having pulsing I doubt it is you gearbox. and if the clutch is getting hard that may be becoming an issue- Mine got harder and the new one is significantly lighter than the old.

The special bit is a t70 bit but if you are a bit rough you can use vice grips to get the plug out. I notice you are in Perth - Where? I am in Kensington and have the bit - I could loan it to you -

I bought mine of ebay fairly sure is was $10 or thereabouts.
 
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I use the castrol multitrax, improved cold shifting a little as well.
 
Thank you lefty, crazydave and idw for sharing your experience with Castrol.

I went to AutoBarn, Supercheap, Repco and Auto one today, and not sure why, only 2 bottles of Castrol were available in Supercheap, and didn't see any sign of shell.

I then found Nulon (4 litre one) in AutoBarn and finally bought it with the 2 bottles of Castrol.

Further hunting and still couldn't find the T70. Went to Bunnings with no luck as well but the guy in Bunnings recommended me to try Toolmart and yeah, the one in O'Conner has the last one and I rushed to grap it without hesitation!

Thank you crazydave for offering loaning yours to me.

Thought everything was ready but spent 1 hr trying to unscrew the plug with no luck :yell::yell::yell:

Am considering getting a mechanic to do it for me :twisted:
 
crazydave said:
If you are having pulsing I doubt it is you gearbox. and if the clutch is getting hard that may be becoming an issue- Mine got harder and the new one is significantly lighter than the old.
Click to expand...

After spending 1 hr without able to unplug the bit, I am thinking maybe it's fate that I do not need to change the GB fluid!
 
Getting the plug out shouldn’t be that hard if you have the right bit. I have in the past used a jack to hold a socket it place so that I could swing on the breaker bar. It should work with the t70 you only need to move is a 1/8 of a turn and it will be fine - worked best with a bottle jack but could use a a block of wood or something to wedge it in there.
 
Hi crazydave, just wanted to confirm that i worked on the right plug? I did hve the car on stands, even tried different tools even slightly banging with a hammer still no luck. Most of the time i pulled myself under the car when i exerted force on thr racket.

My wife even sat on my body to stop me from getting under the car :-)
 
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Before dropping the oil buy a new crush washer from subaru. Won't seal without a new one and changing the box oil twice sucks. pretty sure the part no. is 11126AA000

drain plug is indeed a ***** to remove, i usually do it under the car (without it jacked up) with a breaker bar and shortest extension that'll fit. Then proceed to swear when i crack my knuckles when it lets go.
 
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idw said:
Before dropping the oil buy a new crush washer from subaru. Won't seal without a new one and changing the box oil twice sucks. pretty sure the part no. is 11126AA000
Click to expand...

Good tip idw. I'll get one before I try again.

idw said:
drain plug is indeed a ***** to remove, i usually do it under the car (without it jacked up) with a breaker bar and shortest extension that'll fit. Then proceed to swear when i crack my knuckles when it lets go.
Click to expand...

I was actually worrying the car falling onto myself with all the forces exerted. I swore too after trying an hour without success :lol: I'll try without the car jacked up next time.
 
yes right plug , that's why subaru changed it to a T70 so that people wouldn't undo the wrong plug.
come to think of it I think it was Castrol Multitrax I used not Syntrax
 
PauSum

That is defiantly the right plug. Depending on who has been doing your servicing it may have never been taken out. If that is the case it will be TIGHT. Another trick would be to put some heat into it you will need an gas torch. I have seen those small kitchen blow torches used.

I would do it on the ground heat it up so that you can touch it for 2-3 second and wedge something under the bit/breaker. Add a cheeter bar to the breaker bar and then lean on it
 
crazydave said:
PauSum

That is defiantly the right plug. Depending on who has been doing your servicing it may have never been taken out. If that is the case it will be TIGHT. Another trick would be to put some heat into it you will need an gas torch. I have seen those small kitchen blow torches used.

I would do it on the ground heat it up so that you can touch it for 2-3 second and wedge something under the bit/breaker. Add a cheeter bar to the breaker bar and then lean on it
Click to expand...

Once I get the washer, I'll try it again with the car on the ground. At least I can feel safer with it on the ground. Might try with the heat if needed. It has always been serviced at the dealer in Osborne Park after a mishap at Melville. Need to trace back the manual to see which dealer has the blame to make it so tight.
 
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