CV Noise after CV Replacement

XA-Coupe

Forum Member
Joined
May 23, 2014
Messages
38
Location
Melb, Vic, Au
Car Year
00
Car Model
Forester
Transmission
5MT
I replaced both the L & R front shafts yesterday as I figured it is an old car and it couldn't hurt.

The car drives a lot better now, but on a hard right turn I still hear what still sounds like minor CV joint rattling. The shafts were complete and brand new, not remanufactured. Any Ideas?

Oh, It also has a CV type sound coming from the rear too ... I assume that the rear axle is a similar job to the front?
 
Thanks Taza, I should have done the bearings whilst it was there I suppose.
 
I thought I had a nunber of problems. I had whining noises, loose steering, droning and rattling through the car. Turned out I had 3 completely stuffed wheel bearings. Lucky they didn't collapse.
 
Check the wheel bearings by jacking up the suspect wheel with the wheel still on. Grab the top and bottom of the wheel and see if there is any movement. If there is check that the hub nut is done up to the correct torque. If that is correct, replace the wheel bearing.

Did you bend the CV past normal operating limits during install? I did during my spring install and it rattles like crazy now.
 
castle nut tight enough? I tried gsp shafts once, two sets in 300km and got my money back.
 
I have no idea what it's safe operating limits are during the install. It is possible that we did something. We also pulled it out at one stage and it felt like the CV at the gearbox end separated .. but it went back in and felt okay after... I might pull it out during the week and have a look. It seems to be the passenger side which is a truckload easier than the driver's side.
The nut should be done up tight, I stood on the breaker bar and bounced. I am no 70 kilo midget, let's leave it at that !
Something is up with the rear, though that is a clearly separate noise so I will get to it later.....
 
Don't do the axle nut up too tight, you can damage the bearing. Liberties are famous for being difficult to remove the nut as their torque spec is much higher than on the Foz.

For a Forester, its 137 ft-lbs/ 186Nm for the SF;140/190 for '03-'04 SG; 162/220 for the >'05 SG
 
Gidday XA

XA-Coupe said:
The nut should be done up tight, I stood on the breaker bar and bounced. I am no 70 kilo midget, let's leave it at that !
Click to expand...

Mate, that's what torque wrenches were invented for ...
The crappiest torque wrench available is better than just ripping it up as tight as anything.

I spent about $200 on a Warren & Brown aircraft tension wrench about 40+ years ago. It's paid for itself many, many times over since then!
 
I've not heard anyone weighing 70kg described as a midget before. although one of my mates is about 57kg and I reckon he must be made of carbon fibre! But using your description, I'm no 70kg midget either and I have never tightened anything that hard. Even someone only weighing 70kg if he applied all his weight to an average breaker bar would be applying too much force.
 
Here's a question .. are ABS and non ABS axles the same length?? I have had a very good look at my car and although it's a very late 00 .. it doesn't have ABS. The axles I have are definitely ABS. To confuse the matter, the axles that came off are one of each. The non ABS appears to be a little longer but thought I would tap the mind bank from here ....
 
It's not the ABS rings hitting something that is making the noise is it? If you don't have ABS on your car, get rid of the ABS ring gear. Having said that, I thought that model had the ABS ring gear as part of the hub, not the axle?
 
No real idea what it has meant to have but there is no ABS module in the engine bay and no wiring at all for a sensor.
 
I had this same problem years ago when replacing complete cv shaft assemblies on my l series and brumby and it turned out that the joints did not have enough grease in them from new!
 
Thanks Andrew, that's interesting ... I will have to figure out how to take the bands off without ruining them and have a look
 
Gidday XA

Before you pull anything apart, try squeezing the outer part of the boot towards the joint - sequentially compressing the boot towards the actual joint; like squeezing the last bit out of a tube of toothpaste.
It could be that the grease is in there, just not in the CV joint part itself ...
 
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