Head Gasket Leak

crazydave

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Joined
Mar 9, 2012
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82
Location
Perth WA
So, I was under the car on the weekend changing out the clutch. While I had it apart the view of the motor was better then usual -



I have previously noticed oil around the LH cylinder see photo. I probably cleaned this area 20k km ago

So the question is: is this bad and will need repair soon or its ok and should be right for ages just keep an eye on it?
 

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Clean it up and then see if it is a "seep", if so just keep an eye on it.
 
Hey crazydave
My head gasket has a slight leak just like yours, it's been like that for 35,000km that I've owned it. Its probably been leaking longer before I had it. It never gets any worse! I would not be to worried about it unless it starts to really make a mess.
 
As Kevin said, clean it and keep an eye on it. I just changed the HG on a 2.5 last week as one side was leaking oil. $200 for a set of head gaskets from veales :iconwink:
 
Folks,

Thanks for the feedback can you expand on "really make a mess" and "seep" can I assume that that means does not drip?

Taza, how long did it take to change the head gasket - did you do both sides and did you have the heads surfaced?

Thanks.
 
Gidday Dave

Is your car using any oil? If so, how much?
Our Camry was leaking oil (dripping on the driveway), but the amount was so little as to be insignificant between oil changes (at 10,000 Km or 12 month intervals).

Basic rule with alloy heads and blocks is to check that they are flat using a workshop straight edge across in all directions. It is far easier to machine either or both surfaces while the engine is stripped down than it is to do it after re-assembly ... :iconwink: :poke: :lol:.

Also follow the OEM tightening torque, sequence and procedure for all components to the letter, including cam carriers and the like. It is usual to tighten all head nuts/bolts to finger tight in sequence before commencing using a torque wrench on them. This settles the head/gasket/block alignment and mating before applying any real force to the hold-down bolts/nuts. Finger tight is about 1 to 2 ft. lbs. torque. Same goes for the cam carrier nuts/bolts.

I have always tensioned heads in steps, following the sequence for each step.

Say the recommended torque is 60 ft. lbs., I would start with finger tight, then set the torque wrench to 5 ft. lbs.; then 15; then 30; then 45; then 60 ft.lbs.

This takes a bit longer, but after having an engine that would leak at the head gasket at the drop of a feather, one realises that the forces being applied need to be applied gradually and very evenly. BTW, that particular engine had a cast iron head and block (it was a straight six). Alloy heads and blocks are even more 'flexible'. After working this procedure out, none of the head gaskets I worked on ever leaked again ... :ebiggrin: :biggrin:.

Remember to re-set the tappet clearances afterwards ... :iconwink:.
 
Ratbag,

Thanks for the comments - I agree with you resurfacing a head while it is off and then torqueing in steps - although my experience is: if you machine the head and follow the procedure in the manual it generally works out ok.

Regarding oil consumption - I use 1l or maybe a little more every 10,000km I top up at about 5000km. I think I could get away without checking but for $2 of oil and 5minutes of my life it is worth it vs the consequences of running out of oil.

There are no known oil leaks on this car apart from the head as mentioned when I had the flywheel off this weekend there was an accumulation of gunk near the main seal but I wouldn’t even call that a seep. And I had sprayed Teflon into the bell housing to shut up the noisy throw-out bearing so who knows where the oil came from originally.
 
G'day again Dave

Doesn't sound like it's exactly gulping the oil down like an alcoholic at a free booze up, mate ... :cool:.

On that basis, I would go along with everyone else's view of just checking your oil regularly.

If you have the plugs out, do a compression test to make sure that your engine isn't down on any cylinder/s (or up - just as bad, these days).

Also check that you aren't getting any oily residue or emulsification in your coolant.

Otherwise, just keep an eye on it, and your oil levels! I totally agree that the occasional slurp of oil is a lot cheaper than an engine re-build ... :poke: :biggrin:.
 
Hi everyone,

My MY06 has the same problem, probably to both sides of the engine.

I have been "keeping my eyes" on the oil level etc and one worse case was I had to put in 1.5L (didn't aware of this problem before) but since my monitoring its normally 200ml max (about 3 months ago).

I have been checking the oil level every week (max 2 weeks) as well as the presence of "milky" coolant and everything seems fine so far (and interesting no oil consumption at all for at least 2 months).

My only concern is will this get worse all out of sudden and make some irreparable damage to the engine?

Cheers
PauSum
 
Its unlikely to suddenly start dumping oil. Just keep watching as you are & if it suddenly starts going through a lot more that would be the time to get it fixed :iconwink:
 
NachaLuva said:
Its unlikely to suddenly start dumping oil. Just keep watching as you are & if it suddenly starts going through a lot more that would be the time to get it fixed :iconwink:
Click to expand...

Sure will keep my eyes on it. :egeek: Cheers NachaLuva
 
Holy thread revival!!!

But just to complete the tread if anyone ever bothers to look

So after 5 yeas and 70000k+ the car has started to drip coolant from the headgasket. It would loose about 1l of coolant every 5000kl.

So off with its head (s)!! - Given the reliability of the failure of the genuine head gasket does any one have a suggestions for head gasket



Cheers,
 
Thanks for the update, Dave.

We will do SWMBO's gaskets on the SH at the 125K service in about 15K. Both are weeping a bit.

My SG is weeping slightly from one head. Watching brief only.
 
So latest update. New headgaskets

New felpro head gasket kit from rock auto (MLS gasket)
Machined heads
New radiator hoses (and screw clamps the old springs ones didn't work with the new hoses)
New timing belt and cogged pulley that was just a bit loose for me. (existing timing gear only has about 50000km on it and the km I am doing these days it will take me about 8 years to get up to the 125km service interval so only did the bit I was concerned about)

and we are back together (actually 2000km ago).

You can do this job by lowering the heads out the bottom and not removing the intake manifold from the car.
The gaskets look like they will go on either way - they don't. If you put on on reversed the oil feed channel is exposed and you piss all the oil out of the motor in about 30 seconds:surprised:
 
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