More power from N/A Subaru

taza

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Most people who have Naturally Aspirated Subaru's are generally chasing more power or response from their engine.
While some models are more under powered than others, power upgrades are achievable. The majority of people say you can't get more power from an N/A EJ motor. I have to disagree but it is not as simple as forced induction engines.

Subaru's EJ 4 cylinder series ranges from a 1.6l motor to a 2.5l motor. The series was released in 1989 and is still available today. This has given Subaru over 20 years to perfect an already solid, reliable engine.

Increasing power and engine efficiency is about increasing airflow and removing flow restrictions. Their are both minor and major modifications possible to increase power.
This complication of methods is both tested and theory.

Small Stuff

Light Weight Pulleys
These come in both standard drive and under drive versions. They are made from aluminum and are used on your main crank pulley, alternator and powersteering. The benefit of light weight (under drive) crank pulleys is they reduce drag/load on the engine from the accessories.
This can free upto 15% load on the engine.
Can be had for $90-350

Phenolic Manifold Spacer
Grimmspeed make these and work by lifting the manifold from the hot engine block. The material they are created from works as an insulation/heat soak between the block and the manifold. The cooler the manifold, the more dense the air and the more efficient the engine will run.
Grimmspeed;
Thermal spacers lift the intake manifold off the super heated engine to lessen the transfer of heat. Both the intake manifold and engine block are aluminum so the high heat transfers very quickly....well these spacers stop that. The cooler the intake charge the more HP and TQ your engine will make.
~$160

Throttle Body Spacer
Again works by spacing the throttle body from the manifold. This allows more air in the manifold and when you stomp on the accelerator it reduces the time between the air takes to be drawn into the engine. This or the manifold spacer benefits by increasing throttle response and increasing fuel economy.

Both can benefit by upto 3l per 100km.

Grounding Kits
Replaces the earth leads from the negative terminal on the battery. Allows for a better connection of the electrical system.
More response can be benefitted.
~$50

High Octane Fuel
Higher octane fuel allows the engines computer to further advance ignition timing. Here in Australia our regular fuel is RON 91, we also have 95, 98 and 100(15% ethanol)
I personally am not a fan of the ethanol but I know many people who run it in their vehicles.
I recently ran a unknown mix of diesel and RON91 fuel in my Brumby. Ran alright, pinged under decent load. However it left me strandard 100km from home as the oil in the diesel clogged the fuel filter...

Major Stuff

Exhaust
A CatBack exhaust is a good performance upgrade. Allows more flow (and most of the time noise) from the restrictive stock system. Generally if the engine ranges between 2.0l to a 2.5l a 2" 1/4' is a good upgrade. It allows good flow with some back pressure. If too much back pressure is lost (2.5", larger or no exhaust) the valves can burn.
Since Cat/s(Catalic Converter) are required in Australia and Europe for emissions and legality a Cat-Back is legal.
I have personally found the the system with 1 resonator and a free flowing muffler has a good boxer note without being too loud. However if you want a quiet vehicle 2 resonators can be installed.

$200-600

Extractors/Headers
To get that boxer note unequal length headers must be installed in comparison to the standard headers. Again most aftermarket headers have increased flow and combined with a high flow cat and 2" 1/4' cat back fairly high gains can be achieved.
$150-450

Aftermarket engine management or Tune
Depending on your modifications a tune may or may not be necessary. With a modified engine to get the most gains out of the engine is to have it dyno-tuned to your particular requirements.
However standard Subaru computers have upto 40% adjustment in both directions of air/fuel mixture from standard.. This is good to know for engine upgrades... :iconwink:
The US guys on Nasioc have heaps of experience with this. There are huge amounts of them running EJ25's on EJ18 computers with modifications.

Cams(Camshafts)
Cams aren't very common in Subies here in Aus. In the US it is fairly common. There are a number of companies such as Delta Cams and Rallitek that do cam grinds for all Subarus(EA, EJ and FB series engines).

I personally am going for Delta Cams 1000 torque grind. This works between 1000rpm-3500rpm, where I spend most of my time. It has little to no effect on power up higher in the rev range. There have been cases where this torque grind has increased fuel economy in EJ22's and EJ25's.

Other performance grinds are also available. These can have other significant effects on your engine and it's drivablity. The 2000 grind offered by delta is not recommended for a DD(daily driver).

A cam grind involves sending your existing cams to Delta in the US, they select the profile your after and regrind your cam to spec.
NOTE: Camshaft grinds are not available for the EJ20 N/A as that engine was never released in the US.

Power gains are huge, upto 15% can be had. Yes cams can be done to

$350+
If your due to do your headgaskets it makes for an easy upgrade while the engine is out.


Port and Polishing

Porting involves increasing the diameter of the ports that flow into and out of the heads.
Polishing involves making these ports smooth.'

All in all it increases airflow and as we know the more airflow we have the more power we have.
 
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Great write up with some useful points. Just one thing with the headers though. UEL (unequal length) headers do give that boxer burble but reduce HP. EL headers increase HP, esp if combined with a cat back exhaust, but reduce the burble.

All of these things, by themselves, prob dont do a lot, but by combining them, I reckon good HP increases can be had :biggrin:
 
i might have a look into those spacers... how precise does their design have to be or could a copy be made at home?
 
Great write up with some useful points. Just one thing with the headers though. UEL (unequal length) headers do give that boxer burble but reduce HP. EL headers increase HP, esp if combined with a cat back exhaust, but reduce the burble.

All of these things, by themselves, prob dont do a lot, but by combining them, I reckon good HP increases can be had :biggrin:

My mrs gen 4 lib has el headers and cat back exhaust and it gave it bit more low end power but higher rpm is about the same if not lacking a tiny bit.
 
I found my 2" 1/4 cat back single muffler, feels like it has a bit more low end power, and a headache on the fwy. I had a hot dog put on to make it bearable just. The 3" straight through and extractors on my falcon with a big cold air intake didn't do a dam thing untill i had it retuned, then i didnt see much of a kw increase (marginal really only 3% iirc) but it did give much better low to mid range output, and pulled better from 1000-4000rpm. Which is better imo you don't always drive to redline and shift, mid range drivability is more important.
 
Block Upgrades

If you currently have an EJ18,20 or 22 you can upgrade. Involves a fair amount of work but can be a good upgrade to change to a bigger block.

For example my 2001 SF Forester came with a 2.0 that is drastically underpowered for the size and weight of the vehicle. I upgraded to a fully rebuilt EJ25.
A number of modifications were needed to run this on the standard computer. Having looked over my options and when compared the $$ to swapping the whole wiring harness and computer to the EJ25 gear it wasn't worth the thousands in expense. If you have an N/A it is NOT neccessary to do a complete conversion and will not have any major effect of the engine unless you don't do the required mods to make it run correctly and safely.

Frankenstein

Basically we get and EJ25 block and slap some EJ22 heads on. Brings the compression rate upto around 11.5:1 compared to the standard 10.0:1 in most N/A Subies.
Can increase performance upto 15-20% however the engine is not as reliable, you have to use high octane fuel at all times(even then you might have detonation occur in Australia's hot summers, which will kill the engine).

Gearing

Changing the final drive from say 3.7 to 3.9 will allow the engine to rev more freely which can liven up an engine.
For most of us offroad guys we have 4.11. Going to a 4.44 ratio will help with larger tyres and reduce the stress and work on an engine.




If I've forgotten anything please feel free to add.... :iconwink:
 
For most of us offroad guys we have 4.11. Going to a 4.44 ratio will help with larger tyres and reduce the stress and work on an engine.

The 4.44 diffs also reduce stress on the driveline. As a lower vehicle speed can be used while keeping the engine in its power band, it also reduces stress on the suspension, chassis etc. Basically a winner lol :monkeydance:

Use a taller 5th gear to compensate for use on the open road.
 
While a few more kilowatts would be good the 1.6 low range is a useful addition to reducing stresses and clutch slipping when the need for slow speeds off bitumen is required. Not a crawler gear but much better than the original 1.2.
On the highway any reasonable load rapidly becomes apparent especially on hills!!!
When/if the motor needs to come out, now 306000kms so probably on the cards sooner rather than later, a port and polish and a better exhaust system will be needed and appreciated.
Probably improve fuel consumption as well and compensate to a degree for the extra weight of the car caused by SubaXtreme front and rear bars and sump guard which must, I would guess, add another 50 or so kgs.
 
^ So would a mixture of hydrogen and oxygen ...

But it does need to be done somewhat carefully. Perhaps ask NASA how not to do it ... :(, but still :lol:.
 
Supercharger - Hatchie style :twisted:

I wouldn't mind going down this path - but it's money, time, less under bonnet space, 98RON fuel requirement (read: I'm a tightarse on the price of fuel!).

All that said, after riding in Hatchie many a year ago it's still VERY fresh in my mind and toys with my setup in Ruby Scoo...

Cheers

Bennie
 
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