Load distribution strap?

Blix666

Blix666

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Joined
Jul 16, 2008
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Location
Methuen, MA
could somebody post some links to what they're using for a load distribution strap? having difficulty finding what looks like will work. Thanks!
 
Blix666 said:
could somebody post some links to what they're using for a load distribution strap? having difficulty finding what looks like will work. Thanks!
Click to expand...

This is what I have:
RIDGE RYDER 8,000KG EQUALIZER STRAP - SCA
A tree protector strap does the same thing. You'll need 2x 3.2T bow shackles to attach to the tiedown points:
BLACK RAT 3.2 TONS 16x19 mm x2 BOW SHACKLES - eBay

This is how it looks ready to be snatched out:


EDIT: just realised you're from the US, perhaps someone from the wrong side of the Pacific (lol) can help? ;)
 
^^ I also use a tree trunk protector as a distribution/equalizer strap :iconwink:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
^ I have one of each, for some obvious reasons - tree at one end, car at the other, winch in between ... :biggrin:.
 
Don't get 4.7t shackles they don't fit on the tie downs.
 
I bought 2 of these years ago, 1 set still in its packaging.
These were rated the best straps 10yrs ago..

zpal.jpg

bih9.jpg


I have 3.2 tonne rated shackles
 
what are some rear recovery options that you guys use? my rear tie downs are removed because I've installed a trailer hitch but i'm limited to only 1 1/4" receiver for some reason. the only shackle mount that I've seen that fits 1 1/4" receivers is not rated for the weight of a vehicle, it's for ATVs and such. is it feasible to bolt the solid hooks onto the sides of the trailer hitch located like in this illustration?

 
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Gidday Blix

I would check that the bolts holding that tow bar to the vehicle are high tensile and the correct length. For your intended use, make sure that there is a bolt in every hole ... Ensure that the existing bolts are fitted with lock nuts or proper lock washers.

Secondly, you may not be able to drill the parts that you have indicated without seriously weakening the bar assembly. You would have to check this with the bar manufacturer.

If you can drill it without doing that, make sure that you use high tensile bolts the right length to attach the snatch points.

By "the right length", I mean that the thread of the bolt should extend through the nut by about the diameter of the threaded part of the bolt.

Personally, I would be very wary about using such a flimsy item that is so lightly attached to the body shell for recovery. If you compare the attachment points and brackets on your bar to those on a normal duty tow bar, you will see what I mean.

The tow bars on both our SG and SH are made from far heavier gauge steel, have many more attachment points and these extend to nearly under the back of the rear seats. I suspect that they could only be removed by brute force by tearing off the back of the vehicle!
They are also "rated" devices by under Oz law. AFAIK, The lightest duty tow bar one can fit here is rated to around 2+ (metric) tonnes SWL. It has to have an approved compliance plate attached to it.
 
Put the strap in the receiver and use the shear pin, Blix666

For a winch use the towbar tongue and put a shackle through the hole the ball usually go's in. Never use the towball, it will break under shear load and go flying.

Don't bother modifying the towbar assembly, 1) you'll weaken it (not really by much in your example) 2) there's no need to with the options above.

https://www.usa-trailer-hitches.com/fullpic.php?R2-0386.jpg <- does your hitch have the side supports like this one?
 
idw said:
Put the strap in the receiver and use the shear pin, Blix666

For a winch use the towbar tongue and put a shackle through the hole the ball usually go's in. Never use the towball, it will break under shear load and go flying.

Don't bother modifying the towbar assembly, 1) you'll weaken it (not really by much in your example) 2) there's no need to with the options above.
Click to expand...

+1

You could also leave the towbar tongue in the receiver & use a 4.2T bow shackle to attach the snatch strap through the toball hole. As stated, NEVER use the towball itself to snatch off. There have been numerous accidents doing this & a few deaths.
 
NachaLuva said:
As stated, NEVER use the towball itself to snatch off. There have been numerous accidents doing this & a few deaths.
Click to expand...
Even though it's been said a couple of times already, I'm going to say it again.
And I don't apologize for repeating the warning.

Never, never, never, use the tow ball as a recovery point.

It's extremely dangerous !! & could have deadly results.

idw said:
Put the strap in the receiver and use the shear pin, Blix666
Click to expand...
Thats what I've done on many an occasion & also the best/safest way.

The last thing you want to do is weaken the bar assembly by drilling any holes etc in it.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
NachaLuva said:
You could also leave the towbar tongue in the receiver & use a 4.2T bow shackle to attach the snatch strap through the toball hole.
Click to expand...

TBH that's probably better as you'll then have a properly setup double shear on the pin.

^ I do this but my towbar's done doesn't come off the towbar assembly.
 
I'm well aware of not using the tow ball for recovery...however, as I stated in my OP, I've only got a 1 1/4" receiver, this means I can NOT fit the loop of a snatch strap inside the opening to pin it through. Also, can't find any 1 1/4" receiver mounts that have a weight rating that's high enough for a safe recovery when used in unison with a rated shackle.

The other problem is that this trailer hitch (or tow bar) is also only rated to tow 3,000 pounds, this seems like a problem to me as recovering a stuck vehicle obviously requires a lot more pull than the weight of a vehicle that is free-rolling...thoughts?
 
Not sure how else we can help you. I certainly wouldnt be drilling into the towbar supports, esp if it has a low load rating that you're worried about. It will only make it weaker. You could have some recovery hooks welded onto the supports.

You prob dont want to hear it but your other choice would be to install a heavier duty towbar. Then you could do as others have & either use a rated recovery hitch in the receiver or put the snatch directly in there using the pin to hold it or as I do use the towball hole to attach a 4.2T bow shackle.
 
I wouldn't worry to much, My towbar is "rated" (which most of the time is a bs word) to 1600kg (3500~lb). I've recovered and been recovered many times using my tow hitch with no adverse effects, and of course my bar is fitted properly with high tensile bolts etc, I've pulled out dedman up to his doors in thick mud which i'll come back to later. More importantly the rear frame it attaches too is completely free of rust and damage

A 3000lb trailer jerking around on the road and bouncing, or even working up a little sway is exerting more than 3000lb of force on the mounting point on the car and the towbar assembly. The towbar is going to bend before damaging the car and it's not going to do that until a much greater force than 3000lb has been placed on it. This rating has also worked out by what the engine of the car can sustainably pull for an extended period of time,your brakes can pull up, plus drive line load, breaking and point. The front tie downs with a strap is a hell of a lot weaker than your towbar.

So this comes back to how you recover the vehicle. 9 times out of 10 because the subaru's are so light compared to 4x4's and the independent suspension leaves little to get hung up on, you can gently take up the slack of a snatch strap and tow out the stuck foz. If that doesn't work free up the wheels and around the body with a shovel and try again, then give it a light snatch. That's my approach generally to recovery, a bit of sweat and someone owing you a beer is a happier outcome for everyone then breaking something.

With your 1 1/4" hitch and pin the shear force would easily be higher than the breaking point of the welds which in both cases is much greater than 3000lb. Really your towbar is stronger than where it's mounted to the car, so i wouldn't worry too much.

Disclaimer etc, recovery is inherently dangerous do so at your own risk, don't be an idiot.
 
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