KONI inserts, King Springs, OEM struts

Douglas Ferrier

Forum Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
67
Location
Warranwood Melbourne
I noted a bit of interest in the rebuild and lift of my SG struts.

I had been after -
Improved handling
Comfort on the long touring runs between A and B
- particularly through the curves on the way the alpine region
Minimize shock fade on the corrugations
Improved clearance when loaded (wife, daughters, dogs camp gear etc)
Retention of suspension down/up travel
- or ideally improvement in suspension travel

There were really only 3 choices I could reasonably decipher
for the suspension rebuild that kept it legal:

1) The KYB's with subtle solutions lift kit, king springs
2) Rebuild of the OEM struts with new springs/shocks
3) Coil overs aimed at motor sport

Option 1 was my first thought - but I had reservations given what people
on the forum have noted and stated - so I was preferring to get it running
as well as I could with the intention of not compromising - given I intend
on retaining the car until it dies.
I am hoping that given the popularity of the Impreza/Forester platform and WRX's - new and second hand parts will be readily available for a very long time.

Option 2 was not to dissimilar to option 3 in pricing/costs but option 3 after probing around was unlikely to provide the long touring comfort I was after and would still need a number of custom parts put together to account for the higher stance.

In the general forum I noted a few queries about the strut rebuild so here are the details I do have:
Note I did not do any of the work it was a suspension workshop - hence labour costs are about as much as the hardware cost (about a 50/50 split)

Step 1) Shop removed the struts to finalise the measuring up and check where and how the Konis would sit in the shocks (need to ensure the shock stroke is not compromised with the longer springs - Raised Front and rear king springs)

Step 2) Build the custom spacer sleeves to ensure the shock is held in the right place.

Step 3) Put shocks in and bolt/clamp in place, springs on with subtle blocks on top.

Step 4) Install in the car

Step 5) Add in white line anti lift kit
H&R rear wheel spacers
I need to get snow chains on the rear as well as the front
This also helps return the rear track width back to OEM spec
due to the longer strut stretching out the lateral and trailing arms
SUMO parts trailing arm blocks dealt with the trailing arms
Add in strut brace
Add in customs blocks as required to get the front suspension geometry back to being correct
Add in camber bolts if required

Attachments show the before and after and some images of the struts being built

Note there is also a spacer/sleeve at the bottom end of the shock to hold it correctly in the strut and also a bolt at the lower end of the strut to hold the insert in place and help lock the insert into place. SLS oil canisters have been ground off and hole sealed - given they are no longer SLS struts just the body.
 

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How does it drive you ask?

Well given the suspension was almost shot before in the rear and the front was OK - it now handles beautifully - I would be tempted to say way better than when it came off the ship - but memory fades.

The only insight I have is that even though the car is now higher, I am sure it feels more secure travelling some nice S bends near home at a faster pace than I ever recall going through them.

So yes so far very happy.

Down sides I have noticed:

1) The rebound rate is a bit fast (I can soften it so that is OK) - when on the work commute
2) The adjustment for the rear I can not get to currently, unless I remove the plastic covers over the rear towers (will have to find a solution to to that)
3) The stiffer ride from the king springs is notable until the family get in

Will be knocking it around a bit over the next few weeks before going back in for an inspection on the components and another alignment after letting it settle for a bit.

Now I am looking forward to the drive to Fraser Island (booked a house for a week before xmas at Orchid beach)

I am contemplating testing a few tracks in Toolangi tomorrow to trial it on some rougher terrain - could be fun given the rain we just had :ebiggrin:

The before and after measurements are in the Lift definitive guide thread for those with an interest.

BTW - does anyone have Fraser Island specific advice? - Has been 8 years since I had a 4WD bus tour and this time I am taking the car and have a house booked.
 
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Very interesting. You'll find the Kings will soften up a little as they bed in. I found when I did mine, I was over the moon with how well it handles despite being 1 1/2" higher.

Cant wait to hear how you go in Toolangi then Fraser I.

Good stuff :lildevil:
 
Nice work DF but 1 question remains...on the 5th picture, the rod doesn't seem very long so i'm interested to know how much wheel travel you have. Maybe you won't obtain full compression because of the stiffer King springs but if you can measure that...or get the informations through Koni...thanks !
 
Looks like nice work! It'll be good to hear how it all beds down on the trip. Between home and the Fraser Island house there's a lot of varied terrain!

There were really only 3 choices I could reasonably decipher
for the suspension rebuild that kept it legal.
Always good to be able to avoid running afoul of The Law. :)
Step 5) Add in white line anti lift kit
H&R rear wheel spacers
Having read some of the VicRoads VSI documents several times I must admit I'm still confused in places where there are multiple options and some of them include things that are not allowed, but when you mentioned wheel spacers I did a double-take:
VicRoads VSI 8 (in section 13.2.2) said:
Spacers between the wheel and hub are not permitted unless provided by the vehicle manufacturer as original equipment.
Is this quote in a section which does not apply to your modifications? Like I said the compartmentalised negatives and positives in the VSI documentation do get confusing (to me so far, at least).
 
Yes am aware of the "no spacers" notes, the ones I have are 5mm and as easy to remove as taking the wheel off, so if hassles/comments come up I will only be using them when the rear snow chains are required, as they are narrow being only 5mm it provides plenty of grip for the nuts on the studs when the wheel is on. If they stay in good condition most likely so long as the wheel nuts are correctly tightened and give me no hassles they will stay in, if problematic then they will come out, it the simplest off all the changes to deal with, and to avoid the "it's not ok" some places make.
When on the hub the aluminum plate actually looks like part of the hub, and given it is a minor offset change I will be surprised if someone notices and says that should not be there - service centre did not notice on Friday.
Will do a wait and see/forget approach on hub spacer, I doubt I could be bothered deviating with an officious type if it gets picked up and just put it back in the boot for the next snow trip.
 
Regarding the wheel travel/shock stroke I will wait for a bit longer before trying to measure as everything is probably a bit stiff still.

Jacking the car up indicates droop on the rear is somewhere in the 80mm to 100mm range (sway bars attached). apparently there is a restricter in the Konis which can be removed if this not sufficient - I suspect disconnecting the sway bar will add more up and down - will wait to see if a I need more than that provided.

Note I had adjustable sway bar end links put on both front and rear, to help ensure the movement in the suspension would operate as it was intended before the lift.

Looking at the sway bar clean marks where it use to pass through the D bushes vs now is quite significant now I am chewing on the best disconnect/connect method (and a bag of plastic zip ties in the boot to hold it in place when disconnected) I suspect my next trip from Licola to the upper howqua or over to the Croajingalong will drive this change - I am doubting any value in. Dis connecting the sways bars for Fraser Island
 
Well my verdict is in for use on general rough trails where clearance is not the determining factor.
Spent about 2 hours this afternoon punting around some of the main tracks in Toolangi (for those not knowing what is like google for videos you will get the idea- it goes from tame to way out there where cruisers, patrols humvees etc disappear not be seen again).

Corrugated roads - "sweet as" compared to when the car was new off the ship, I have no doubt about that.

The traction under braking and acceleration into and out of lumpy and corrugated corners is now so good it is unnerving to push the car faster (traction levels indicating it can go much faster)

Traction on climbs with lumpy uneven surfaces is also way better with the setup way outperforming all my previous experiences in it.

I did not go to test out the additional clearance but did definitely feel less inclined to back off due to something sticking up.

Verdict is - I am a happy man and the drive up the Melba on the way was exceptionally comfortable compared to the last 8 years of drives up that way:)

Doug
 
I have 20mm spacers, no probs & I dont think I will either. Most of the negative feedback is for cheap, badly made, non-hubcentric spacers. I will be painting them silver with the hub so they dont stand out so much
 
Good work. I have thought at tiems about doing the same. Kevin has a similar setup. At the moment my struts are pretty new, and there's nothing wrong with my springs. but later?

Aside from the king springs wearing in, I am sure you'll also get an improvement in the ride when your wallet returns to its normal weight: I imagine that it's significantly lighter at the moment.
 
I know my wallet was significantly lighter! :)
 
Definitely lighter in the pocket, had been holding out to ensure enough buffer was available to get it all done.

I had bought the subtle blocks as a Xmas present for the foz 2 years ago and then the sumo trailing blocks last Xmas, on the back of a house extension meant had to wait for the strut build but good things come to those who wait.

I am thinking it has settled after the last 500km so going next week to have it checked over and an alignment check to ensure the tyres do nit get chopped out
 
Any feedback about wheel travel or diagonal spin, sway bars disconnected ?
 
Interesting and informative read - thanks. I'm getting King springs and KYB struts on Thursday to replace the leaking struts on my 251,600km 07 XT and I'm quite anxious about the results. I don't want it to be too firm when unloaded and travelling on our generally lumpy rural sealed roads. And I'm hoping the raised height does not have a negative effect in the twisties. I feel certain it will have to though. I do feel confident however that I'm going to notice a real improvement on the corrugations and lumpy dirt tracks I often visit. The plastic's being stripped of $1500 so I don't want too much disappointment. My mechanic has the same set up on his 04 XS and assures me I'll be happy with the result. He reckons better ride, better handling and better clearance but that sounds like having your cake and eating it too - come on Thursday.
 
I'm getting King springs and KYB struts on Thursday to replace the leaking struts on my 251,600km 07 XT and I'm quite anxious about the results. I don't want it to be too firm when unloaded and travelling on our generally lumpy rural sealed roads. And I'm hoping the raised height does not have a negative effect in the twisties. I feel certain it will have to though.

He reckons better ride, better handling and better clearance but that sounds like having your cake and eating it too - come on Thursday.

It wont be a better ride, it will be firmer but he's right about more clearance and better handling. The downside is reduced wheel travel but thats only an issue on big diagonal ruts.

I reckon you'll be happy with the results...

Does the $1500 include a wheel alignment? You may also need aftermarket camber bolts in the rear, Eibach is meant to be the best. I have Whiteline & they've been fine but Whiteline doesnt have the best quality control anymore :(
 
Does the $1500 include a wheel alignment? You may also need aftermarket camber bolts in the rear, Eibach is meant to be the best. I have Whiteline & they've been fine but Whiteline doesnt have the best quality control anymore :(

Yes, a 4 wheel alignment. Nothing was mentioned about camber bolts. Why would anyone want a firmer ride in an 07 Forester? To me it's too harsh and choppy already - the lower profile 215/55 17" tyres don't help there either compared with the 16" tyres.
 
I got another quote from Toowoomba's most reputable steering & suspension specialists (who I've used before and the only ones who I haven't had to return to for retightening & alignment issues) and they quoted KYB rear struts each $219.70, KYB front struts each $226.06, Kings standard height rear springs each $90, bump stop kit $66, front & rear alignment $110, 3.5 hours labour $346.50 and GST $144.91 for a total of $1594.02. They reckon the rear camber bolts won't be needed.

So my mechanics $1500 quote sounds reasonable as it also includes front springs too.
 
Without calling a shop I would say those prices are pretty high. For a start, Venom & I can remove, strip, reassemble & refit the 2 front struts in 40min using hand tools. If they know what they're doing, 2 hrs would be a max IMO.

2yrs ago, 4 KYB struts & 2 sets Kings raised springs (4 total) cost me $1000 incl GST with some haggling & struts have come down now. Melb might be cheaper but Toowoomba shouldnt be that expensive.

Even if you're paying a little more, if they do a good job I would be happy
 
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