Ted's Foz 2,5XT

Hi there all!
As you already know me i am Ted from Greece-Athens.
From the 18th of January 2013 i am a happy owner of a Forester 2,5XT MY06.
The car as you saw from the pics that i have upload in the picture gallery was in a perfect condition with not many kms.
The good thing is that the previous owner was a friend of mine that he first bought the car not for off raoding but because he liked it so much!!
The car has never gone for off raoding or any other extreme trips until it came to my hands!!
I wanted this car as i live most of the time in winter in the mountains where also i am skiing, and also for snow drift as we start a team 4 years ago with some other guys with Subarus and we develop a school for winter driving and tyre tests.

The car was originaly wth a stage I from Prodrive (ecu, ic, back box, air filter).
But for me leaving a car without modifying it was unacceptable and inevitable...!

So i have change after 3 months the turbo unit with a VF43 from the late STI, i also change the fuel pump with a Walbro one for more fuel and i made a catless exhaust from the downpipe to the back but i left the middle box as it was cause i didn't want noise.
I also did a remap with an open flash to the ECU and the car gain, from the 265hp that was with the Prodrive stage I package, 80 more horses!!
Now it has 345hp and 53kg of torque!It is a blast!!
BUt i knew with that kind of power the gbox wouldn't last for ever.
So i have bought from UK a 6 speed with DCCD complete everything with the rear diff brakes and everything else.

In the matter of suspension i am wating for a solution from Australia with KIngs and KYB cause i dont prefer the coils (except Vincent's ones that r the best) the other companys produce for our cars.
I ve been in many Foresters with BC's and r a bit harsh.If u go off road are quite stiff even if u put them in 0 position the rebound.
So i am thinking changing the front and rear suspension to the one above.
But with the reaised Kings cause i might take off the aluminium blocks that i ve made 5 months ago.

Thank you for reading it and i am very glad i found people from around the world that have the same passion.
You have also helped me a lot and gave me ideas for the car through your writings!

Best regards to all of u,
HAVE A NICE WINTER/SUMMER (depends the place u live)!!

Ted:iconwink:
 
Click to expand...
I want to ask you some things guys.....

i have a problem with the rear drop links.
i bent them the time i have raised the car and also the rear wheels went forward.
what can i do with that?
i am going to change them tomorrow but what if it will do it again?
what else ca i do with the rear trailing arms?
any mods?
and last thing is that i was thinking to change the tyres for winter with 16's and wear a 215/65-16.What do u think?Or should i stick with the 215/60-17 that i have now?

Thank u all!!

Ted
 
Hi Ted, I think the best for winter are high sidewall tires to be as soft as possible, so better a 215 65 16 :iconwink:

And did you bend your trailing arms because you did a lift on the struts but not on the trailing arms ? That means that on full droop, the trailing arms touch the lateral link bolts...you have to put some blocks between the trailing arms and the body and it will also center the wheels in the wheel wells.
 
tedscossie said:
Now it has 345hp and 53kg of torque!It is a blast!!
Click to expand...

Awesome! :lildevil:

BUt i knew with that kind of power the gbox wouldn't last for ever.
So i have bought from UK a 6 speed with DCCD complete everything with the rear diff brakes and everything else.
Click to expand...
Did you get the controller with it? You'll find the 6sp much stronger & the DCCD gives you better grip esp offroad :biggrin:

So i am thinking changing the front and rear suspension to the one above.
But with the reaised Kings cause i might take off the aluminium blocks that i ve made 5 months ago.
Click to expand...
The raised springs will stiffen up the ride & make it handle better but will also be firmer.

tedscossie said:
i have a problem with the rear drop links.
i bent them the time i have raised the car and also the rear wheels went forward.
Click to expand...

As jf1sf5 mentioned, you need to use blocks under the trailing arm mounts to centre the rear wheels.

Like SUMO 2" (50mm) Trailing Arm Spacer Set

For the sway bar end links, you can get Whiteline KLC26 End Link, alloy which are much stronger. If you keep the lift kit, take out the rear lateral link (what the end link connects to) & flip it. Put it on the opposite side & upside down so now the end link bracket is on the top, about 2" higher :biggrin:

Also, try Swaybar Quick Disconnects - ORS, it will help stop the end links bending under full droop plus will give you better articulation while offroad :biggrin:
 
jf1sf5 said:
Hi Ted, I think the best for winter are high sidewall tires to be as soft as possible, so better a 215 65 16 :iconwink:

And did you bend your trailing arms because you did a lift on the struts but not on the trailing arms ? That means that on full droop, the trailing arms touch the lateral link bolts...you have to put some blocks between the trailing arms and the body and it will also center the wheels in the wheel wells.
Click to expand...

Hi Vincent,
thanks for your reply.....
yes,when i lift the car after a month without going any off road the rear drop links have bent!
i understand what u r saying but i can't figure that out how that could happened.....??!!!!!
i raised the car today to see underneath but i couldn't understand if what u r saying could it be possible! :-)
i believe that the trailing arm can not in any way touch the lateral link...that's what i could understand from what i saw!

Thanks Vincent, and have a nice winter with loads of snow... hohohoho
ted
 
NachaLuva said:
Awesome! :lildevil:
Thanks.... :iconwink:

Did you get the controller with it? You'll find the 6sp much stronger & the DCCD gives you better grip esp offroad :biggrin:
No i bought from N.Zealand the MAPDCCD controller that is amazing!!it is very small very accurate and works very very well.also Matt the guy who makes them is very helpfull everytime u need something!Also it is much better than the DCCD Pro.it uses 3g axis and not 2 g axis and much more features!Until now that i am using it i can aso change maps on the fly the same if i had the OEM controller.

The raised springs will stiffen up the ride & make it handle better but will also be firmer.That's what i really want!! ;-):raz:



As jf1sf5 mentioned, you need to use blocks under the trailing arm mounts to centre the rear wheels. Can i do something with the trailing arms??i mean can i make them longer or adjustable??

Like SUMO 2" (50mm) Trailing Arm Spacer Set

For the sway bar end links, you can get Whiteline KLC26 End Link, alloy which are much stronger. They don't fit to my car those.....mine is the new one the SG...has different suspension at the rear....If you keep the lift kit, take out the rear lateral link (what the end link connects to) & flip it. Put it on the opposite side & upside down so now the end link bracket is on the top, about 2" higher :biggrin:Do u have any pics so i can understand??sorry but i am new to these....i am into cars but not that sort of things....

Also, try Swaybar Quick Disconnects - ORS, it will help stop the end links bending under full droop plus will give you better articulation while offroad :biggrin:
Click to expand...
where can i buy those??

Thanks mate!
I appreciate for all your help!!
Ted
 
i will saw u some pics from the rear susp of mine to uderstand what i am saying....
20130806_165045.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

20130806_165035.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

20130806_164955.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
Adjustable trailing arms do exist but they won't solve the problem, you need some trailing arm spacers, at least 1". On the pic, it seems that the trailing arm touches the lateral link bolt...

The end links bend when one wheel is on full droop and the opposite on full compression like Nachaluva said...my rear left one is bent and will stay so even if not connected thanks to my coil overs !
 
Thank u very much guys for your help and knowledge.
I will change today the rear links and i will see what i will do with the trailing arms!

Ted
 
Sweet! Love the look of those new trailing arms etc!

I bent my endlinks pretty badly last time I went 4x4ing, steep rutted tracks are good for maximum articulation. I probably should have unbolted the rsb...
 
Adjustable trailing arms with adjustable lateral arms...very nice! :lildevil:

Now you can adjust rear track, toe, camber and caster. I'm sure that'll confuse the wheel aligner lol :rotfl:
 
kiwifoz said:
Sweet! Love the look of those new trailing arms etc!

I bent my endlinks pretty badly last time I went 4x4ing, steep rutted tracks are good for maximum articulation. I probably should have unbolted the rsb...
Click to expand...
Hi there,
unfortunately my end links are both bend....so i have decide next wek when i will put the adj. trailing arms i will change them for the ones of the WRX. I ve told that they r much stronger!

Ted
 
NachaLuva said:
Adjustable trailing arms with adjustable lateral arms...very nice! :lildevil:

Now you can adjust rear track, toe, camber and caster. I'm sure that'll confuse the wheel aligner lol :rotfl:
Click to expand...

ahahahaha...yeah...and believe me there r quite cheap.
not expensive.
if they end up being good i will let u all know to have a set.
there better to align the rear wheels and put them in the center when u raise the car in order to put the blocks on the trailing arms.
And of course i can adjust now the rear toe camber caster etc!!!
and No the guy in the alignment is the best for Scoobies here in Athens-Greece!

I will let u know when i'll finish it.

thanks,
Ted
 
Hi Ted. Interested to know what your final drive ratio is with the 6 speed drivetrain swap, 3.9 or the rare 4.44.
 
Hi mate,
the gearbox is from the STI 2005 European one and it has the longer 5th and 6th gear for cruising.
It has the 3.9 final ratio.

Thanks,
Ted
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top