lift ideas! i need some input

garrettG

garrettG

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Jan 15, 2011
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southern california, 92694
Okay, so I have been planing to have a body lift and suspension made for my 01 forester for toooooo long now.

1) I cannot decide between a 2 inch and 3 inch body spacers!

Ideally I will run 30inch tires, possibly 29inch. Bfg all terrains.

This is my idea for the struts:)

links to the coilover conversion kit and inserts
*** https://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=82/CA=90
https://www.rallyracingsuspension.com/page2.html ***

the springs will be eibach and they come with the ground control kit, the guy said i could order almost any spring rate and height! :)

2) Any suggestions on spring rates??
3)What are the stock forester spring rates?
(I know I dont want to go as stiff as king springs!)

4) As for body spacers should I have steel ones made? or go with the aluminum style like scorpion subaru used to make??


thank you!!
-Garrett
 
Looks good Garret, I just got a set of ground control coilovers for my mx5. Double check the spring lengths will be suitable for the fox as I only recall seeing them listed for wrx I case there is a difference.

I would use the steel blocks as they can have the camber correction built in.

Might be an idea to install the GC kit and see how high above stock it goes before you decide on what size blocks to get.

Good luck and don't forget pics!
 
The blocks I was referring to are for the body lift, not the suspension.

For the suspension I will not be using any blocks. I will be building the suspension lift into the strut housing. Essentially lifting from the bottom. I shouldn't have an issue with camber because the geometry will be the same as just 1 inch over stock.

Good idea on imstalling a GC kit on my struts now tho!
How did you feel about the quality of the GC kit??

They said I could order almost any spring rate and spring height!

-garrett
 
People gets lift by doing King Srpings, strut spacers etc. which is doable through more standard methods (and cheaper)

Stut inserts take up the entire strut body (and are designed to) and held together with a screw on cap at the top of the strut body.
 
nipper said:
People gets lift by doing King Srpings, strut spacers etc. which is doable through more standard methods (and cheaper)

Stut inserts take up the entire strut body (and are designed to) and held together with a screw on cap at the top of the strut body.
Click to expand...


I currently have king springs. I know this isn't the conventional way. That's why I'm having to have it made, and I am eliminating the spring perch that limits tire size
 
Great idea doing it that way, although a bit (lot) more expensive it should be a lot better if you get the spring length/rates right ALSO the dampening to match.

For the body blocks, just match them to the lift created by the struts. If the struts raise the body by 2", get 2" body blocks, etc. IMO you can have the rear raised by more as the CV angle is nowhere near as much as the front, so you could raise the rear by an extra 1-2" over the body lift without worrying bout CV wear.

We'll all be VERY interested in how this goes...keep us informed & we need lots of pics lol :iconwink::poke:
 
This is going to be an interesting build. Looking forward to seeing the finished results garrettG
And yes, make sure you get some before & after pics :ebiggrin:

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
nipper said:
Body blocks use solid blocks as boxes flex too much and will loosen the body bolts over time.
Click to expand...

If they're constructed correctly you won't have that issue. "Crush tubing" is the minimal requirement for using box section to lift the body. Further bracing can be added to the box section to add strength - but generally the crush tubing when done correctly is more than enough.

Regards

Bennie
 
Except that on the outback board someone did this with box tube, and had the bolts pull out of the frame from the flexing over time. ANd he was no slouch with the engineering.
 
This is looking cool Garrett!!!:cool:

Can't wait to see the results, with that dual range tranny you should have a fairly unstoppable Foz.:twisted:
 
Ahh, I overlooked that.

Buy a length of nylon round bar and have your local machine shop lop off sections and bore if you don't have access to a lathe.

I'm assuming the single bolt that goes into the bottom spacer insert is just for locating purposes as it will be loaded in shear.

Are you going to use existing tabs that the hubs mount to and weld them to the housings and reinforce them? I thought about fabbing my own but getting the alignment of the holes spot on would be tricky.
 
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