2010 sh9 snatching

[Glinno]

Hi all,

There are a few posts on here about this, but so far the only answer to how you would snatch a forester out of (say) sand is to use the tie down lugs.
I have great plans for my foz, including a 20-30mm lift, sump protector and sound upgrade, but I am reluctant to spend any money until I solve this problem.

You see, living in perth, most of my off road work is in sand. Having owned and got stuck many 4wd's in deep sand here over the years, it's inevitable for the foz and I will need somewhere to attach the straps!

Also, if i used the tie down lugs it would rip the front bumper off! minor technicality..

Has anyone solved this problem yet?

Cheers

Glinno

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday Glinno

A belated to the ORS forum, mate.

In answer to your question, use the snatch bolt and mount (behind the off-centre square plastic cap on your front and rear bumpers) that is standard on your vehicle - it's what it's there for ... :iconwink:.

Make sure you read the relevant bit in your Owner's Manual about its correct use and safety.

The bolt is lurking somewhere under the rear floor (it is in SWMBO's SH, at any rate ... ). DON'T LOSE IT!! One look at the way it's made tells me that Subaru will charge a small fortune to replace it ...

You need a rated 3.2 tonne shackle to attach the snatch strap to this bolt. Not a bad idea to have two of these, one for each end.

You need a 5,000 kg snatch strap. Using a heavier rated one could stretch your vehicle instead of the strap.

You need a snatch strap damper - a bag with some soil/sand in it is OK. Sling this over the middle of the snatch strap.

Follow the instructions that come with the snatch strap to the letter.

NEVER use a tow ball as an attachment point. This can lead to death or serious injury. Fine to remove the tow ball and use your rated shackle through the bolt hole in the tow bar of another vehicle to attach the other end of your snatch strap, always assuming that the tow bar is reasonably modern (last 20 or so years - old ones are not necessarily fitted correctly, strongly enough, or rated to snatch a 1500-2000 kg vehicle).

My entire recovery kit:

rated vehicle load distribution strap;
two rated shackles;
rated snatch strap;
rated tree protector;

Cost me less than $150 at Super Cheap Autos (SCA).

My rated ARB Magnum creeper winch cost me another $235 s/h, IIRC. These are another kettle of fish, and they are by no means all the same; or even any good, in some cases.

N.B. "rated" means that the device has the safe working load ["SWL"] or working load limit ["WLL"] permanently marked on or attached to it. WLL is for loads on the flat or slight slope ("travelling load"). SWL is the dead lift limit - i.e. straight vertical lift. The two ratings are different.

My winch has WLL = 2400 kgs and a SWL = 1600 kgs.

The two ratings are very different. A device marked with "WLL" must never be used for a dead vertical lift (unless it also has a SWL, as does my winch).

Hope this is of some help.

 

[sjm]

The attachment point Ratbag is referring to is shown in the photo posted by noggs in another thread. Please bear in mind that this point is for towing with a steady load, and is not equalised across the vehicle. If you place a sudden shock load on only one corner, there is the possibility of bending or stretching something, particularly if the opposite side wheels are stuck. Ideally, you should equalise the load when snatching, although it's not really required when towing.

 

[Ratbag]

Gidday SJ

Thanks for clarifying that. It just hit 42.2°C here a short time ago ... My mind is not functioning all that well! I find it oppressive, even with the air conditioning on that's keeping the house relatively cool.

BTW, I suspect that the recovery/towing bolt I referred to is easily capable of handling the more gentle pressures of snatching if it is to be capable of handling the far more abrupt and forceful pressures of towing.
The snatch strap stores the energy of the snatching vehicle and applies it to the snatched vehicle at a given rate implicit in the design of the snatch strap. A tow chain, rope or strap applies all the force of the towing vehicle more or less instantly to the towed vehicle. I am certain that someone better versed in the physics of all this than I am could define the two situations mathematically. I suspect that there is an inverse square law function in there somewhere ... :iconwink: .

Also BTW, the Owner's Manual specifically mentions using the towing hook (sic) for "(e.g., to free a stuck vehicle from mud, sand or snow)." - top left of page 9-11 of the SH OM ...

As a further comment on this, snatch straps must never be used for towing; and tow straps must never be used for snatching. Using the wrong one in either case could damage your vehicle badly.

 

[Kevin]

A gentle snatch from the single point is OK but not really good for a heavy recovery. It is far better to balance the pull via a distribution strap. Preferable to do a heavy snatch from the rear if there's only a single point on the front. I suspect that single towing bolt's main purpose is to winch the car onto a flat bed.

 

[Ratbag]

A gentle snatch from the single point is OK but not really good for a heavy recovery. It is far better to balance the pull via a distribution strap. Preferable to do a heavy snatch from the rear if there's only a single point on the front. I suspect that single towing bolt's main purpose is to winch the car onto a flat bed.

Due to a power glitch I've just lost about 20 minutes typing.
I'm not going to repeat it.

The front tie down points on the SG are more than strong enough for recovery - look at the diagrams for the front sub-frame and upper reinforcement frames (SG brochure).

So is the recovery bolt on the SH.

 

[taza]

Hey mate, if you don't have a tow bar on the rear get one! Use that for any rear recoveries. I only go from the front if need be as I know it is not as strong, even with the weight distributed...

 

[Kevin]

The front tie down points on the SG are more than strong enough for recovery).

So is the recovery bolt on the SH.

We're talking SH here not SG.

I reckon if I strapped my Triton to that single bolt and did a full-on recovery I'd rip the front off or twist the monocoque frame. But - because I'm familiar with Subies I would not do that.

 

[simxs]

Yep, pop that cover off and use the screw-in eye. And as Taza said a towbar that slides into a square section is great as you can use the locating pin.

The snatch strap stores the energy of the snatching vehicle and applies it to the snatched vehicle at a given rate implicit in the design of the snatch strap. A tow chain, rope or strap applies all the force of the towing vehicle more or less instantly to the towed vehicle. I am certain that someone better versed in the physics of all this than I am could define the two situations mathematically.

Spot on.

Mathematically, what you're saying can be explained by how the mass (vehicle) achieves momentum. Momentum (p) is achieved by a certain amount of force (F) measured in Newtons being applied for a certain amount of time (t) measured in seconds. That is, p=Ft.

Accordingly, to achieve a certain amount of momentum, you could apply large force briefly (like an unstretchable chain or rope does) OR a small amount of force for a longer time (like a snatch strap does).

The catch is that this all assumes that there is nothing other than the mass's inertia resisting it from moving. With a recovery, as opposed to a tow of a dead vehicle on the road, there's some other impediment like increased rolling resistance due to sand or mud, or an obstacle or gradient in the way. So it's likely that, despite the snatch strap allowing the force to be applied over a longer time, the force required in a recovery could be just as great as that applied by a normal rope or chain in towing a dead vehicle on the road. Because of this it is quite right to be concerned about the strength of anchor points for snatch recoveries.

 

[Glinno]

Yes thanks for all the replies guys and thanks for the welcome also. I never thought the towing eye would be strong enough. Want to avoid turning it into a missile you know!
Most of my previous cars have had points specifically for snatching (my last car was a wrangler) so forgive my reluctance. I have a tow bar on the back so all good being dragged out backwards anyway.
Got all the recovery gear also. The foz was my wife's car til I sold the jeep and bought her a Mazda! So now it's time to play.

Already tested in the dunes and went pretty well. Popped some new Michelin all terrains on it too.
Am happier now that I can be dragged out forward also thanks to you guys too. Next step to find the abs / traction control fuse.

Thanks once again guys you've been really helpfull

Glinno