Following on from Part 1 https://www.offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?p=2931#post2931
After releasing the main strut nut remove the strut from the vehicle and strip.
Remove the main strut nut, slide the spring off (still under load and secured by the wire) remove all rubbers and washers and place it all on the new strut in the correct order. Seating should be pretty easy as the rubbers will have like a memory or shape you can follow. Ensure that you look for the 'out' marks on the top cap of the actual strut and orientate it inline with the bracket which joins to the inside of the hub using the two 19mm bolts. Just be sure to take a good look at the original before you pull it apart.
The following pic is the strut ready to be put into the car but you get the idea.
Install...pretty much the reverse. Trick is to get all the 'out' marks of the top strut cap orientated correctly so that it slid up into the 3 holes in top strut mount as easily as possible. With the spring still under load it is easy enough to give it all a twist.
If you get the top mounted and secured temporaily by one nut its easier to get the bottom two main 19mm bolts back through the bracket securing the strut to the inside of the hub, using the jack for lift. Once everyting is tight cut the wire and the job is done. Put wheel back on.
It really wasnt that hard. We used totally everyday tools, with exception to the old matey pipe, but thats stock in my shed anyways. As I said before, we bled the brakes, with the motor running and had no real issues.
I hope this helps anyone who is considering doing this job. I also have the required manual pages in .pdf if anyone needs them.
Once I get the BFGs in I'll have gained somewhere around 20mm all up.
The struts cost $200 each from Scorpion Subaru.... google 'em or check my other posts on lifts etc...
Here are some 'before-and-after' shots....
After releasing the main strut nut remove the strut from the vehicle and strip.
Remove the main strut nut, slide the spring off (still under load and secured by the wire) remove all rubbers and washers and place it all on the new strut in the correct order. Seating should be pretty easy as the rubbers will have like a memory or shape you can follow. Ensure that you look for the 'out' marks on the top cap of the actual strut and orientate it inline with the bracket which joins to the inside of the hub using the two 19mm bolts. Just be sure to take a good look at the original before you pull it apart.
The following pic is the strut ready to be put into the car but you get the idea.
Install...pretty much the reverse. Trick is to get all the 'out' marks of the top strut cap orientated correctly so that it slid up into the 3 holes in top strut mount as easily as possible. With the spring still under load it is easy enough to give it all a twist.
If you get the top mounted and secured temporaily by one nut its easier to get the bottom two main 19mm bolts back through the bracket securing the strut to the inside of the hub, using the jack for lift. Once everyting is tight cut the wire and the job is done. Put wheel back on.
It really wasnt that hard. We used totally everyday tools, with exception to the old matey pipe, but thats stock in my shed anyways. As I said before, we bled the brakes, with the motor running and had no real issues.
I hope this helps anyone who is considering doing this job. I also have the required manual pages in .pdf if anyone needs them.
Once I get the BFGs in I'll have gained somewhere around 20mm all up.
The struts cost $200 each from Scorpion Subaru.... google 'em or check my other posts on lifts etc...
Here are some 'before-and-after' shots....
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