Driver Side Power Window Problem

spinners

spinners

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I was wondering if anyone else has experienced a problem with the power windows in their Foresters.

It is only the drivers side that won't go up or down when you press the button. You can here the switch "tic" and then "tic" again a few seconds later on either up or down, so I presume that is working.

Has anyone else experienced a problem with their power windows?

I took it to Subaru Gladesville and the told me that the switch ($238) had gone and that in turn blew the power window motor ($464). They also said that I would need a new window because of a design fault it the motor and window assembly. They can not guarantee that when they undo the nuts off of the motor that is connected to the window they won't break the glass. This has happened on about 80% of the MY05's that they have done ($450).

So potentially $1,152 in parts and 4 hours of labour.

Now, the thing that really gets on my goat is that now my wifes MY06 drivers side power window gave up the ghost today :furious:

The only pre warning I remember is that when the windows were going up or down the motor sounded as though it was labouring slightly.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated
 
I have the same problem with my rear drivers side window in my 05 Outback. Also the same door seems to have a dicky lock switch. It both locks and unlocks intermittently! When pressing the un-lock on the key I can hear the mechanism cycling several times - as if it locks then un-locks.
A bit odd that both issues are occurring with the same door.
The window isn't a real concern as, thankfully[!], it is fully up. Would be a real bummer if down!!!! However, the lock is a right pain, as I need to remember to check the handle every time I lock the car.
Given the quote that Spinners has received I will be learning to live with both problems I think!
 
I have a similar problem with the drivers window on my Forry :twisted:

If I put the window all the way down & leave it that way for a while (say 5 mins) it doesn't always want to work when I decide to put it back up :o

However, if I put it all the way down, then immediately lift it back up a touch (5mm's or so) I never seem to have any issues :iconwink:

This has been going on for over a year now & I'm kind of used to it :cool:
If I do forget though, I tend to just hit the door (trim on the inside) which normally does the trick :eviltoyou:

I keep meaning to have it looked at, but I knew it wouldn't be a cheap fix, so I sort of left it on the back burner.

spinners said:
I took it to Subaru Gladesville and the told me that the switch ($238) had gone and that in turn blew the power window motor ($464). They also said that I would need a new window because of a design fault it the motor and window assembly. They can not guarantee that when they undo the nuts off of the motor that is connected to the window they won't break the glass. This has happened on about 80% of the MY05's that they have done ($450).

So potentially $1,152 in parts and 4 hours of labour.
Click to expand...

But after seeing what you've been quoted to fix it :huh: I think I can live with it.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
You guys could always go to a wreckers and try to get some used part and install them yourselves. Just an idea. Its pretty easy to pull off the door panels.
 
Am thinking about that Taza, however:
  1. no gaurantees with used electricals;
  2. wreckers would probably want to sell the entire door; and
  3. in my case I would also need to see about the feasability of having the door lock re-set to work with the rest of the car locks.
 
That is one way taza, & would most certainly be a far cheaper alternative, but like Barry said, there's no real guarantees with used electrics.

However, as I said I kinda used to it, so I'm not too fussed about mine really :)

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Makes one thing obvious though ... how much better the world would be if car windows still came with winders! ... ;)
 
My driver's window has recently started to "knock" when about 3-4" from closed - this, I believe, is the mechanism getting loose and needs attention soon or else things will fail all together. As I recall there's a fairly lenghty thread over at subaruforester.org re windows problems.
 
Had a similar problem on my old L series. 3 of the 4 power windows wern't working when I bought it.
On all three the brushes in the motors were worn out.
I pulled the motors out and apart, filed down some generic alternator brushes from an auto electrician and fitted new brushed to the motors. That was 9 years ago, I don't have the car anymore but to the best of my knowledge they are still working.
OH yer cost about $5 to do the lot and about 1.5hrs each.
 
That sounds the ticket!!!

From what I gather, the hardest part is getting the motor assembly off without breaking the window.
 
Had the drivers door apart on the weekend to see if I could find and rectify the "knock" which I think maybe is a worn tooth either on the window lifiting mechanism or the motor itself. Struck an issue where I could not disconnect the glass from the scissor frame as the rear two attachment bolts / nuts just spin and won't undo. (this may be the design fault mentioned earlier) I finished up putting it all back together again for when I have more time to fiddle with it. If I don't let the window retract all the way down, I don't get the clunk on the way up so I can live with it for a while.
 
Reviving an old thread but this information might be useful for some people!

My master window switch was playing up and I left it long enough that it fried the window motor in the drivers door. Both needed replacing and from what I was reading the whole process was going to be pretty tricky and quite expensive. Here's the facts you need to know:
- You do not need to remove the glass and regulator from the door to change the motor over. I read in multiple forums this had to be done, people couldn't get the bolts undone that held the glass in place etc etc
I purchased a new Doorman 742-804 window motor from Amazon for $73 shipped and when I received it, had the motor replaced within the hour.
This motor fit my 06 Forester and I believe it may fit earlier models too.

The process involved using some soft grip clamps that I had to pinch the glass right above the door, holding it in the up position during the entire motor replacement. This made it possible to swap the motor out without taking the assembly out of the door. I loosened the 4 bolts holding the regulator in, then removed the 3 screws attaching the motor to the regulator, then slid the motor out through the speaker hole. All you need is a 1/4" socket with a #3 screw bit in it to get the screws off the back side of the motor.
This is the link to the motor I purchased: www.amazon.com/Dorman-742-804-Subaru-Window-Motor/dp/B0089T01NU/?tag=viglink20475-20

All up it cost me $200 for the new motor and a 2nd hand switch. Heard reports of Subaru charging upwards of $750 to do this!
 
Gees, just read this thread today and I'm going to try never using my electric windows again. Not that I do much anyway. Having been brought up on manual winders (my Forester is the first electric window car I've owned in 40+ years) I really miss the manual winders. At least our new Golf has delayed up/down and one touch on all windows. What were Subaru thinking?
 
Minas01,
interesting, saw this comment under customer reviews on your link

By Suby driver on December 2, 2013
Verified Purchase WRONG SIDE
I'm sure the motor works fine, but it is for the wrong side. This part is advertised as being for the front RHS door. Although I ordered it for an Australian RHS drive Subaru, it should still have fitted. Instead I had to order the part for the other side -803 which did fit perfectly. In the meantime however the deadline for a refund had expired and I am now stuck with a motor I don't need.
Suby driver.
Click to expand...
 
I was planning to but got on a bit of a roll and before I knew it I was finished! Its a really simple job - the hardest bit is getting the screw bit in the screws as you are working blind pretty much. A small mirror helps to have a look around in there while you're doing it
 
revmax said:
Had a similar problem on my old L series. 3 of the 4 power windows wern't working when I bought it.
On all three the brushes in the motors were worn out.
I pulled the motors out and apart, filed down some generic alternator brushes from an auto electrician and fitted new brushed to the motors. That was 9 years ago, I don't have the car anymore but to the best of my knowledge they are still working.
OH yer cost about $5 to do the lot and about 1.5hrs each.
Click to expand...


^^This
Repaired my moonroof motor for $2 and a few hours DIY work.
Got the brushes from ebay.
Subaru charge $1500 to replace the motor.
the power windows should be the same
 
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