Broken Axle spline, outer CV wear - Aftermarket or OEM?

paffoh

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Sep 3, 2008
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Canberra, A.C.T
New tyres 1000km ago, after wheel alignment pedders mentioned I had a split inner cv boot (explained the grease burning smell). A week later my car makes a god awfull squealing noise when on full lock both ways or medium lock when turning right. Tyres and wheels not touching struts and noise continues when stationary performing left to right lock tests at rest (cycled wheels, same result).

Got the inner cv boot replaced and 165k service this Friday, any ideas on what the noise is so I can relay the problem? The noise was belt tension not my worst fears of Pwer Steering pump, Relief valve or Cv wear?

But then dang, its far more complicated than I thought,

Got a call from service centre before I picked up the car, concerned about outer cv and boomshaka, failure backing off the hoist. Seems the spline simply failed and now, of all things, they found some serious wear. From what I can gather Total Traction Services have never seen this happen, and is most probably due to wear and tear and bumps and knocks offroad (Probably the offroad incident wear I hit a tree and bent 2 struts), with strain occuring from the raised Kings and 1" strut lift.

Bugger, anyone know the OEM part and rough cost? (Sans labour).

EMPI Axle Assembly (This what is needed?)
03-08 Subaru Forester 2.5 4WD EJ25 Front Axle Assembly ?

Bit of info to go with background on the area :

What is an axle assembly?
The axle assembly is the full assembly of gears, rods, and components that turn your wheels. Whether on the rear of the car for rear wheel drive, the front of the car for front wheel drive, or on both ends for four-wheel or all-wheel drive, the axle assembly gets turned by the drive shaft and counter rotates the gears inside which spins the wheels. The axle assembly can be seen from the rear of the car with the prominent case or housing over the gears. This is a sealed system and is bolted tightly no to expose any parts.

What can go wrong with my axle assembly?
Because of the complexity of the assembly with all the parts contained, there are a myriad of things that can go wrong with it. The most common problem is contamination from dirt, grime and other oils or chemicals from the road. Once inside the housing, they can corrode the gears and cause slipping. Another common occurrence especially in SUV's that weren't really designed for off road driving, is damage from being shaken or jarred from rough terrain or bumpy city streets.

How will I know something is wrong with my axle assembly?
The axle assembly has a thousand different ways of letting you know there is a problem. If you have an assembly damaged by rough roads or exterior forces, you will experience a rough ride with a lot of chatter and vibration. If the assembly has been contaminated, you will hear grinding and feel a slip of your gears while attempting to shift. In severe cases, you assembly will fail altogether accompanied by metallic scraping sounds and a total loss of drivability.

How can I help?
The best way to help the situation is to properly maintain your axle assembly. Have it serviced and lubricated according to the factory's recommended service intervals. Try as hard as you can to keep it from getting contaminated by chemicals or other road materials. Do not drive your car beyond its means into rough terrain if it is not made specifically for that. You can cause unnecessary damage just by your choice of roads.

Are there performance assemblies?
This is one of the better areas for increasing your car's performance. There is a very large variety of axle assemblies that give the performance enthusiast benefits like increased torque capacity, a stronger gear ratio, a better sense of stability around corners, quicker response when shifting, and many other great benefits. If you have a fast car or you want one, you should look into aftermarket axle assemblies.

I guess my question is should I hunt down a OEM part direct from Subaru or will an aftermarket product do the job safely? I have heard and read OEM is the way to go but also these days the chinese knockoffs are actually better quality than the OEM parts.

Anyone have aftermarket options and pros and cons?
 
Found that mate, thanks.

While I would like to go OEM the cost quoted was $1200, aftermarket was $300 new through repco and money's tight so aftermarket it is.

Lift voids warranty so fingers crossed.

What sort of km's have you done since install?

Rough stuff?
 
Not so much since the 2010 replacement as I got the Triton a month or so later but it's been on a couple of rough outings. The RH front shaft and a rear shaft were replaced a few years ago and have held up to a lot of bashing including the Simpson Desert crossing. In all cases the CVs were OK but the boots had split.

Back then I did hear that reconditioned OEMs were better than Chinese. I may be wrong but think it was a failed cheapie shaft that meant towing Eden's Outback out of Abercrombie!

Here ya go: " the ones on my car were imported replacements from china and were only good for tar.:madred::furious: Rally thats why they were thinner. the weight difference between the two was quite noticable. so he gave me some recon 2003 subaru ones which were cheaper than new ones although i had to buy 2"

https://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=1119
 
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