time for a new clutch

sofast

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Apr 9, 2009
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After 130,000 miles the clutch on my 2001 forester s is starting to slip. I am going to tackle the job myself as I can’t afford to have a shop do it. I am also a senior in high school and my school happens to have an amazing shop with a good lift. I have heard there are two ways of doing this job. Tacking out the Trans or just moving the engine forward. Which way is easier? Is there enough room to work if the motor is just nudged forward? Any tips would be appreciated. Are there any clutch kit brands that stand out as being more durable? My clutch gets worked pretty hard. Also are there any other things that should be replaced while im down there?
 
OK, changing the clutch is best done by removing the box. To move the engiine forward would risk it hitting the fans and radiator for no benefit. You will need to remove the front driveshafts. To do this, you will need a pin punch of about 6mm so as to punch out the pins. Then you will have to remove the lower arm from the hub. There are 2 ways of doing this, most under the pin that secures the ball joint. There cab issues doing it this way if the nut is seized on to the bolt though.

You will then need to remove the gearshift linkages, speedo and wiring etc. Remove the tailshaft. On turbo models you will need to remove the pin that holds the pivot for the throw out bearing, which will require a hex key, forget the size. Disconnect the battery and remove the starter motor. By now, there should only be the mounts and bellhousing bolts to undo. Make sure nothing else has been missed.

You will need a mate to help you, especially if you do not have any mechanical assistance or stands. The box is reasonably heavy. There are workshop manuals out there with any luck, but I think I've included eveything. Replace the throw out bearing, and check the flywheel- most people machine the face of it. Also check the ring gear to make sure there are no chipped or missing teeth. But becareful removing the flywheel because they are heavy too, and fall very quickly, so I generally leave couple of bolts in until it has been worked a bit loose. Saves fingers and toes that way.

When putting back together ensure you tighten the flywheel and clutch bolts the right amount. Torque wrenches work well for this- well, good ones do anyway. You will need to align the clutch plate- an old input shaft does the trick, and there are tools which do the same thing. If you are really good, you can do it by sight. If you do not have mechanical aptitude then get someone else to do it. Even if you do, see if your helper is someone who knows what they are doing to guide you on this. Hopefully, others may have others things to add in case I have left something out.
 
so will undoing the ball joint be better than removing the two bolts that hold the strut?

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so will undoing the ball joint be better than removing the two bolts that hold the strut?

Yes. If you undo those two bolts you will need to get a wheel alighnment as these I believe play with the camber of the wheel. You may need to disconnect the stabiliser bar to swing the lower control arm down enough to allow the hub to swing out. Once the pin has been removed you can easily swing the hub out and in doing so pull the drive shaft off the stub axle of the gearbox.

Also if you can find the right spanner you'll be able to access the clutch pressure plate bolts from the hole that the starter motor mounts to. This allows you to leave the bolts loose so that you can still move the clutch plate around if you need to (because its not aligned properly). Just make sure you do them up nice and tight after ;)

I've never botherd with machining the flywheel, but that's a personal thing and a money/time issue too...

Hope this is some help. Good luck with it!

Cheers

Bennie
 
Is there anything else i should replace while im down there? rear main seal? The car has 131,000 miles. Timing belt has been done along with the head gasket so im hoping i can get some more reliable mileage out of it. Should i replace the slave and master cylinder as well for the hell of it? They are both original.
 
Did you replace both head gaskets? I'd leave the slave and master cylinders if all is good. They are easy to get at should the need arise. I'd check the ring gear, and replace the spiggot and throw out bearings- and change the gearbox oil as well- you're best draining it before you take the box out.
 
A few pics.

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For what it's worth, I replaced my clutch a couple of months ago. Piece of cake. Just pulled the engine and did it. Took no more than 45 minutes to have the engine out, 20 minutes to install clutch, change spark plugs (may as well while they're easy to get to) and I have the engine a clean. Then less than an hour to have the engine back in and running....and I'd never done it before.

Like I said; piece of cake. Far better than pulling the box in my opinion.

My Forester is reaching 200,000km very soon. I'll probably pull the engine again to do the belts, pumps and a very thorough inspection. It's amazing how simply it is to remove these engines. Two people could do it in 30 minutes without a problem.
 
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