Driving without a rear driveshaft

Luke

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Joined
Sep 26, 2008
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It appears that the center bearing in my split driveshaft is completely shot. It makes really loud screatching noises while driving faster than 60km/h. Can I remove the rear driveshaft between the center bearing and the rear diff to stop the problem while I fix it? I need to drive on the highway to get the university every morning.

It should just be 8 bolts to remove it? Will the transmission tailshaft still spin while driving? I know a lot of times things will "free wheel" and just lightly spin. I figure this shouldn't though? Can I remove the driveshaft right from the transmission to? I would like to service the bearing and then put everyhting back in.

It's a 1987 Subaru GL
 
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Knowing that the L series operates more like a "proper" 4WD, i.e. you have to select 4WD for power to go to the rear wheels, otherwise it is simply a front wheel drive vehicle, I see no problems with removing the rear drive shafts at all.
 
Just make sure it is still sealed. Eg, no oil will come out when you take off, the yolk wont slide out etc.
 
It can be done. Use the coke can and hose clamp trick to seal the rear of the gearbox. If you leave a yoke in there it will more than likely spin off at some stage. I haven't done this trick myself but I have heard of others doing it.

I have driven without a rear diff and only half of the tail shaft - but that's the first half that has the centre bearing that you're wanting to replace...

Can you get hold of another shaft for the mean time?

Cheers

Bennie
 
I think I might just replace the drive shaft and center bearing assembly. Apparently theres a subaru at the local auto wrecker. I could get a drive shaft for probably $30 and give that a shot.

Does anyone know if the length of an automatic car's driveshaft is the same as a standards? Apparently the cars at the wrecking yard are automatics but mines a standard.
 
Luke said:
Does anyone know if the length of an automatic car's driveshaft is the same as a standards? Apparently the cars at the wrecking yard are automatics but mines a standard.
Click to expand...

From what I've read they're different lengths. Sorry...

Cheers

Bennie
 
I had the same exact car and it was a manual DR tranny. I drove without it untill the shaft got rebuilt.

If the carrier bearing is shot, just replace it. I had bad U joints and had my shaft rebuilt at a driveshaft specialist.


nipper
 
I pulled the rear driveshaft and the car drives WAY better. Before it felt like the car was dogging a bit almost dragging like the brakes were on a tiny bit. Now theres no more funny noises and everythings nice and smooth(which is awesome because I had a feeling the rear end might have been in rough shape).

It looks like the U joints are completely shot on the driveshaft. Its really hard to move them. They're pretty much completely seized. So I'm going to pull the u joints appart and see if they're serviceable but I'm guessing they won't be. If the car starts marking noises again after I fix that then I will replace the center bearing.

It makes sense that the u joints were bad though. The problem got really bad after I put the 4" lift on the car which increased the angles.
 
I took the driveshaft to a local shop that does a lot of drive train and suspension work. They said they don't do these kidns of driveshafts and they're considered non serviceable.

They pointed me in the direction of a shop in town and said he would have to drill the old ujoint out and then install the new one.

The instructions with the new one say to just press it out and then grind off any little splines left over.
 
So I'm guessing these two driveshafts are balanced as one single unit? I put the driveshaft back in today and it seems to vibrate at 30km/h and I get a bit of a vibrate in my seat while driving.

I was able to narrow it down to 4 possible configurations for the driveshaft. From the dirty and clean spots on the mating surfaces you can see where the driveshaft has been for the past 20 years. The only problem is regardless how I arrange everything there is still a vibration at 30km/h and it seemed to vibrate a bit at all other speeds. Not really bad but noticable. The vibration at 30km/h it loud and very apparent.

I'm thinking the ears on the driveshaft might have been bent when installing the new u-joint?
 
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It may be the centre bearing that's the problem - the tail shaft will have been balanced as seperate units - I've had mine off and put it on how ever it fitted, not paying attention to the way it was before I took it off without any problems.

Either that or the rear shaft is slightly bent.

Cheers

Bennie
 
The car definately wasn't doing this before the rear u joint was replaced. When I was tightening up the u joint bolts the center bearing would deflect a fair bit. I doubt it would have been enough to break anything though?

I guess I'll pull the driveshaft back out and take it to the shop to see what they say. Apparently the u joint itself might not be perfectly centered?
 
There's a trick to do with the alignment of the uni joint yokes. Either the yokes at each end of each shaft segment are supposed to be parallel or perpendicular, I can never remember.

Anyhow, you had work done by a shop and it's come back faulty, so take it back to them. Surely they'll have some ideas.

Dane.
 
GOD said:
There's a trick to do with the alignment of the uni joint yokes. Either the yokes at each end of each shaft segment are supposed to be parallel or perpendicular, I can never remember.

Anyhow, you had work done by a shop and it's come back faulty, so take it back to them. Surely they'll have some ideas.

Dane.
Click to expand...

I think it is perpendicular (i.e. 'cross ways').
 
I'm almost positive I had it lined up right. You could see the rust/dirt imprint from where the driveshaft was sitting. Theres only 4 ways it could be put in.

The new ujoint is greasable and has a grease nipple coming out of one of the caps. I'm guessing its thrown the balance off a bit. The ujoint is completely different.
 
I stopped by the balancing place today and he said I would need to bring in the whole driveshaft. It would cost about $120 as well.

This is really getting to the point where its not worth it. A local autowrecker is openning back up after inventory at the end of the month. I'm going to pickup a driveshaft and try it out. I've already got $85 into this driveshaft. $205 is a lot of money.
 
Where abouts are you? I'm in Sydney and I've got a spare driveshaft assembly complete with the centre bearing. If it doesn't spin true then there's really something wrong. I know exactly where you're at regarding spare parts versus new prices for uni joints... new is certainly not worth it if you can get used parts that will do the same job and it's easy to switch them over again if you really have to.

I have a 3" body lift on my L-series and I know that the center bearing does deflect a little but the rubber around it flexes for this.

Balancing the shaft with the new uni joints is necessary but, more than likely, you'll find two other points that will help you:

1) The center bearing MUST be spaced down from the body. I've seen a 3" body lifted Subaru without a 1" spacer for the centre bearing and it was shot. Mine has this to reduce the strain on the shaft angles and to take the strain off the bolts that hold the end of the shaft to the rear diff - otherwise it's trying to pull the diff backwards to make up for it's lack of reach toward it. It still keeps the center tucked up under the bodywork nicely to maximise the ramp-over angle.


2) Try loosening all the rear body-lift blocks before re-fitting the shaft and this might help to relieve the strain. When it's all bolted up you can tighten it all back up again. This trick works a treat to relieve all sorts of problems getting things to line up when putting a new part in.

Let me know if you want to try my spare shaft,
0403 223288
 
The lift kit I purchased doesn't come with a spacer for the carrier bearing. I purchased the 4" SJR lift which raises my car 2" with the body lift and then pushes the suspension down the last 2".

The rear diff is dropped 2" in the front and 3" in the back. It seems to work fine. I'm not really impressed with the change of angles though. That does have me worried.

Unfortunately I'm in Canada. Its nearly impossible to find anything up here. I really need to find an extra set of hubs all the way around so I can do my 6 bolt conversion but the local pick a part is closed for inventory until mid november now. They've already been closed since the start of october.
 
At least you could create two 1 1/2" spacers out of some solid steel block. They're not big but they are necessary. That kit does leave some things left wanting, I've investigated their kits some time ago. Pretty amazing ideas and presentation but not the most comprehensive in tending to all the things you really need to. This isn't to say that anyone here in Oz has it perfect either.

Sounds like you have a little waiting for the moment. How's that coke can holding up? LOL... I remember using my wife's diet coke can (cut in half) for weeks on mine and it slipped in perfectly inside the metal shroud around the output shaft and some silicone smeared around that sealed it brilliantly.
 
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