New L series owner.

turborob

Forum Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Messages
12
Hi all,

I just purchased a L series 4x4 wagon.

I am now seeking your help.

It has a coolant leak at the bottom of the radiator. I'm wondering if you recommend using one of those radiator leak fix bottles or another approach?

A gasket sealant might work too, though I'm not sure how it will react with the high temps.

What do you recommend? Thanks,

Rob.
 
G'day turborob & :welcome: to ORS.

I'm not sure with what's the best way to stop the radiator leak, I suppose it depends on how big the leak is.
I'm sure someone on here will be able to help though.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
Get a reconditioned or new radiator - or try Holts radweld - it's what Subaru use as an additive for the 2.5L head gasket problem. (I would only recommend this to get you out of trouble for a while as eventually it must be fixed properly)
 
Hello, thanks for the welcome.

Upon closer inspection it is coming from behind/underneath the water pump housing.

Additionally, it also seems to have a bit of water coming out of the exhaust, even after a 15 - 20 minute run. I thought that by then all liquid would have been evaporated. Was thinking head gasket - little bit of steam but when you check the oil it doesn't look milky.

I'm well unsure. I'll continue the diagnosis.

Any tips/hints common problems would be great.

Rob.

Edit: I drove it another 20k and it drips and leaks the whole way. When I came to a stop it overflowed out the res. When it comes out it is all creamy and fluffy. I'm not sure if that's from the Bar's leaks I put in, or air is getting in through the leak and causing the bubbling effect.

Additionally, the car has had the front large (running straight off the engine) fan removed, and replaced with a smaller one which works with a switch on the dash. I was told it was put in because in winter before the car wouldn't (according to the gauge) get to operating temp. Currently the temperature gauge sits about in the middle, though I'm not sure if to trust the gauge.

Hints/tips....
 
Last edited:
I thought when your head was gone, coolant/water contaminated the oil?

Oil is good.
 
:welcome: turborob!!!

Sorry to hear about you engine woes.:sad: Does sound like a head gasket to me, might be time to get it checked out. Whatever the prob, I hope you are able to get it sorted out soon.:)
 
turborob said:
I thought when your head was gone, coolant/water contaminated the oil?

Oil is good.
Click to expand...


Depends where the gasket or head has cracked. Water constantly coming out of the exhaust is a sure sign.
 
Sure sounds like a head gasket to me. My L-Series sedan I bought for parts does the same thing. It has definitely done a head gasket.

Beigewagon.
 
G'day turbo rob!

Sorry to hear about your engine woes on your "new" rube! I too would say its a head gasket - or it could be cracked heads as already mentioned. The EA82 has a tendancy to crack the heads in the ports, which can lead to coolant leak into the cylinders or the exhaust ports. A blown head gasket doesn't always result in water in the oil...

I hope its just a head gasket - be sure to have the heads shaved before you put them back on, otherwise you might find you'll have another dud headgasket before long!

Cheers

Bennie
 
OK the water pump seal has been fixed.

Also, the original fan is back on.

Now, to continue the diagnosis I've decided on my methodology of conforming this head gasket business.

I'm going to buy a radiator pressure kit and pump in a few PSI and take out the spark plugs. Leave the pressure for a bit then crank the started and see if coolant comes out the plug holes. I figure that was will confirm my diagnosis.

Has anyone here done this job? I imagine it would be difficult to do because of the flat 4 design. Also means 2 head gaskets.....

I have got excited about doing some off-road driving - usually I go off road on motorcycles. But if this is going to be too expensive or difficult I will be financially forced to sell the car and cut my losses if any.....

Diagnose it first. Will keep you posted.
 
I've done a few head gaskets on the EA's - I don't like their design but I've sorted that "problem" I have with them :D

If you have a torque wrench and a few tools such as a set of spanners and sockets and know how to use them/read a manual, you'll be right. I ended up doing them with the engine out - it gives you plenty of room to work with which is the main reason for the engine pull.

The little L's are awesome off road. I've put the open rear diff back in mine - I'm already missing the traction of the welded off road. If you'd like to know how to do this I can do a write up on it, its a very easy mod with very good results offroad!

All the best with your testing - I've never thought about doing that, but it sounds like its worth a try.

Cheers

Bennie
 
OK - it seems better now. I've given it a few bigger runs and it isn't leaking out the exhaust anymore.

No white smoke or steam coming from exhaust.

It is running cooler now it has the standard fan on it.

Hasn't used a noticeable amount of coolant (50k's).

All I can think of is either (unlikely) the bars leaks helped it out a little.

More likely - it has been raining heaps (+ windy and it could blow up the exhaust - it protrudes) and a 15 minute run at low rpm wasn't enough to get rid of all the water in the exhaust.

Happy days at the moment. Sadly going on a acourse for a month starting tomorrow - leaving her in the carpark till then.

Hopefully some 4x4ing the week I return! Thanks for the help all, and I'll contribute when I return.

Rob.
 
Keep a close eye on the temp - if you continue to have problems, get the radiator rodded (the core channels cleaned out) or get a new radiator. Its a common problem for the aging L's.

You'll love it offroad!

Cheers

Bennie
 
Ok, she is running fine without overheating.

Next
thing to fix up.

She has an intermittent tappet noise which goes from really quiet, to in about 30 seconds really audible.

It happens regardless if the car is hot or cold. In fact, it is easier to hear once warm.

What it will do is make an increasing 'tap tap tap' noise until it gets real loud then suddenly it will be quiet again.

My thoughts are that a camshaft oil gallery might be a little clogged and as the oil stops, the noise occurs and then eventually the pressure builds to enough to let oil past and it's quiet again.

Is this plausible? I can't think of what else would cause it to be intermittent.

Any help/clues would be great.

Rob.
 
Rob,

There are several possible causes, and solutions.
1. Low oil level, the easiest to check and fix. Make sure you have plenty.
2. Fautly hydraulic lifter/s. Replace ment will mostly likely fix it, but not always, and not always a permenant fix.
3. The oil pump seal can go hard and let air past, but without leaking oil. This aerates the oil, which manages to get caught up in the lifters and causes the tapping noise due to 'lack of oil'. Replace the oil seal with one from an early? Liberty.
4. It is a common L-Series trait. Accept the fact, monitor the oil level, and try con others that you are running a prototype Diesel.:lol:


Mine has done it intermittently for most of its life. I just make sure that it has enough oil, and wait for it to go away again. I done all the other tricks, and nothing seems to give a permenat fix. It can be a little embarassing at times but mine has done 450000+kms and still going, so it wont stop you in a hurry.

Beigewagon.
 
Beigewagon said:
Replace the oil seal with one from an early? Liberty.
4. It is a common L-Series trait. Accept the fact, monitor the oil level, and try con others that you are running a prototype Diesel.:lol:
Click to expand...

Not a liberty unit - the liberty's EJ motor is a different design with exception to the horizontal 4 layout. The liberty's oil pump is internally driven off the crankshaft, so no external shaft seal like the L's EA82.

As for the lifter tick - This was one of the reasons for swapping to an EJ series motor. The others were: Better engine design (easier to work on), more torque and power.

Try putting a little more oil in the sump than the full line says too - it worked for my sister's L, as soon as the oil gets halfway between the full and the low line it'll start ticking. So monitor your oil level.

Cheers

Bennie
 
Thanks guys.

Oil level is full.

I'll just keep running the girl. Spoke to another L owner who has two (one with a 2.2 liberty motor) and he recommends thin oil. He says it has small oil lines.

Thanks guys.

Next.....not a biggie, but for some reason now my stop light, brake fluid and another are on all the time - though they're ok. Is it a pain to fix? Getting there....
 
turborob said:
for some reason now my stop light, brake fluid and another are on all the time....
Click to expand...

That will generally mean that there's something wrong with the charging system. When my alternator died those same red lights came on and stayed on all the time.

Check your alternator - swap out for a known good one if you can and see if that sorts out the problems. Also check your fusable links (brown box near coolant overflow bottle).

I'd also like to talk to your mate with the L series that has the EJ22 in it - mainly about insurance and engineer certification... And if he has lift/big tyres etc.

Cheers

Bennie
 
The charge light is on too. It gets dimmer above 2000rpm.

Now the handbrake light is also on slightly.

I understand the alternator effecting the charge light - but why would it do brake fluid AND rear tail lights?

Hope the car's alright - I'm tossing up between taking the car to Melbourne tomorrow or a bike instead.

I'll find out if he has it registered, but I'll assume so. He has two, been across the Simpson and all. They're both lifted as far as I know - and legal.
 
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