NachaLuva
Product Developer
Following Mr Turbo's Snorkel Mod , $150 and you could be in the snorkel club! & Dedman’s $100 forester snorkel build, I decided it was time for digitus extractionem (to pull out my finger!) & take the snorkel out of the shed onto the Foz.
I purchased a NH-NK 90-97 Mitsi Pajero snorkel from eBay (~$120) & made up a template from it & carefully marked the main hole plus bolt holes on the guard. Check & recheck!
NOTE:A better way would be to cut the main hole, bend the snorkel, THEN mark the bolt holes on the template as the holes' position changes as the snorkel changes shape
I used a HSS holesaw & cut out the hole in no time
I then cut out a hole in the guard support panel & with a lot of filing got it right & smoothed it out. I then used rubber edging from Clark Rubber to cover the sharp metal edges & for a neat, professional look :biggrin:
I used black neutral cure silicon to fully seal the airbox intake, both inside & out. Inside, I completely filled the gap between the inlet & the box but did it too high & it fouled on the filter. A quick trim with a knife fixed it
Dedman was kindly able to help & together we set about bending the snorkel with my heat gun. It took a few bends in the main body: in the middle, at the front to bend the tip in towards the panel & at the elbow twisting the top in towards the roof. A twist about 6" from the elbow to get the bottom edge sitting better. We also twisted the top section around so the bracket sat in on the pillar. Just heat it till its too hot to touch, bend it & while holding it bent cool it with a wet rag. Put it on the panel & check for fitment. I had to keep filing out the bolt holes as the snorkel changed shape (see note above).
Holding it in place I then marked the top bracket on the pillar (check & recheck!) & drilled the holes. I put in a heap of silicon in each hole plus a bead around the edge of the bracket to stop water getting (definitely do NOT want rust in the pillar!) & used monel rivets.
I chose to bolt it up with the panel on the car but this was very difficult even with a ratcheting spanner. Probably a better way is to remove the panel, bolt it up, then refit the panel.
I used 3" Silicone Air Ducting
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/76mm-3-...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7cb13a83
& a Trident hose clamp to attach it to the snorkel outlet. Make sure you put the hose before you replace the panel! :iconwink:
I cut the end off the airbox inlet but kept one tube thingy to act as a water trap. I used some aquarium silicon air pump tubing, a 1-way check valve (I wanted water to flow out but not in) & siliconed an air tube connector to the tube
You can just make out the silicone aquarium tube coming out the bottom of the black "S" shaped pipe.
I then cut the 3" hose to length & clamped it to the inlet. Done!
I purchased a NH-NK 90-97 Mitsi Pajero snorkel from eBay (~$120) & made up a template from it & carefully marked the main hole plus bolt holes on the guard. Check & recheck!
NOTE:A better way would be to cut the main hole, bend the snorkel, THEN mark the bolt holes on the template as the holes' position changes as the snorkel changes shape
I used a HSS holesaw & cut out the hole in no time
I then cut out a hole in the guard support panel & with a lot of filing got it right & smoothed it out. I then used rubber edging from Clark Rubber to cover the sharp metal edges & for a neat, professional look :biggrin:
I used black neutral cure silicon to fully seal the airbox intake, both inside & out. Inside, I completely filled the gap between the inlet & the box but did it too high & it fouled on the filter. A quick trim with a knife fixed it
Dedman was kindly able to help & together we set about bending the snorkel with my heat gun. It took a few bends in the main body: in the middle, at the front to bend the tip in towards the panel & at the elbow twisting the top in towards the roof. A twist about 6" from the elbow to get the bottom edge sitting better. We also twisted the top section around so the bracket sat in on the pillar. Just heat it till its too hot to touch, bend it & while holding it bent cool it with a wet rag. Put it on the panel & check for fitment. I had to keep filing out the bolt holes as the snorkel changed shape (see note above).
Holding it in place I then marked the top bracket on the pillar (check & recheck!) & drilled the holes. I put in a heap of silicon in each hole plus a bead around the edge of the bracket to stop water getting (definitely do NOT want rust in the pillar!) & used monel rivets.
I chose to bolt it up with the panel on the car but this was very difficult even with a ratcheting spanner. Probably a better way is to remove the panel, bolt it up, then refit the panel.
I used 3" Silicone Air Ducting
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/76mm-3-...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7cb13a83
& a Trident hose clamp to attach it to the snorkel outlet. Make sure you put the hose before you replace the panel! :iconwink:
I cut the end off the airbox inlet but kept one tube thingy to act as a water trap. I used some aquarium silicon air pump tubing, a 1-way check valve (I wanted water to flow out but not in) & siliconed an air tube connector to the tube
You can just make out the silicone aquarium tube coming out the bottom of the black "S" shaped pipe.
I then cut the 3" hose to length & clamped it to the inlet. Done!
Last edited:
:ebiggrin: :biggrin:.
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