New Subaru XV owner questions

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One of the front Transport Tiedown Points on My XV. It is very flimsy looking, maybe 3mm thick. The manual says don't recover the vehicle from this point and I would tend to agree, it would break. It needs to be beefed up! (ozie lingo for strengthen). Even if I used an Equalising Strap between them they look like they would bend towards each other and then break.
 
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With an Equalising strap between the tiedowns how does the strap clear the bottom of the front spoiler without damageing it when presssure is applied, eg a snatch tow?
 
Thanks for the picture posting tips and the other snatch advice. From memory one of the Snatches broke in the middle, there were no shackles involved and the snatch was responsible for the damage to the tailgate on the Hilux.
 
Gidday Ath

Athdeb said:
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Some of my D Shackles, the big one has SWL 12CT? and the other 2 have no markings? Would you use them?
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NO! That 12 CT almost certainly refers to hundredweights, not tonnes. The other are OK for attaching a (> WRONG!!) <750 Kg trailer safety chains, and little else, IMNSHO.

DO NOT use the front vehicle tie-down points on your vehicle.

USE the Subaru recovery eye bolt and mounting point at either front or rear. That's what they are designed for.

If you cannot verify the rating for your existing snatch strap, and it was originally used for a Landcruiser (and presumably rated for that task and weight), do not use it on your XV. Rather than stretch, it would probably damage your vehicle :(.

You can buy a properly rated one from SCA for less than $40 (5,000 Kgs MBS; 2,500 Kgs WLL).
You will also need one 3.2 Tonne rated shackle that will fit your Subaru supplied eye bolt. This is to attach the snatch to the eye bolt, and for no other purpose.
 
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Athdeb said:
Some of my D Shackles, the big one has SWL 12CT? and the other 2 have no markings? Would you use them?
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A straight out NO !! It's not worth taking the chance.

Ratbag said:
USE the Subaru recovery eye bolt and mounting point at either front or rear. That's what they are designed for.
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I would have to agree.

Regards
Mr Turbo
 
you can get from supercheap what i got it's an SUV recovery kit was like $70. you'll get a 5ton snatch strap, 2 3.2ton rated shackles and some crappy gloves with a decent bag that doubles as a damper.
 
Ratbag said:
Gidday Ath
DO NOT use the front vehicle tie-down points on your vehicle.

USE the Subaru recovery eye bolt and mounting point at either front or rear. That's what they are designed for.
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Just be aware:

The 2005 Mazda 6 uses the same principle and the RACQ tow truck driver who picked my daughters car last Thurs., said they are not the best thing as they can cause a lot of damage even just being winched onto the tilt bed truck that they use, he put straps underneath to load it.

The Subaru recovery eye bolt may only be meant for or rated for towing and not for snatching.

I'd be getting something from Subaru in writing before doing a snatch using the recovery eye bolt, so if it all turns to **** you have some form of a comeback on them.
 
Gidday SR

subyroo said:
Just be aware:

The 2005 Mazda 6 uses the same principle and the RACQ tow truck driver who picked my daughters car last Thurs., said they are not the best thing as they can cause a lot of damage even just being winched onto the tilt bed truck that they use, he put straps underneath to load it.

The Subaru recovery eye bolt may only be meant for or rated for towing and not for snatching.

I'd be getting something from Subaru in writing before doing a snatch using the recovery eye bolt, so if it all turns to **** you have some form of a comeback on them.
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Thanks for that input, mate.

I held one in my hand today, and it is a very serious bit of steel.
looked to be roll swaged or roll forged steel. Made a 3.2T rated shackle I have look light weight and poorly made ...

Of course, it is made to be screwed in fully, and I suspect it would not work properly if that were not done.

When we get the vehicle, I will read up on what the Owner's Manual says.

If that's not unambiguously clear, I will shoot off an email to Subaru Australia about it.
 
Ratbag said:
Gidday SR

Thanks for that input, mate.

I held one in my hand today, and it is a very serious bit of steel.
looked to be roll swaged or roll forged steel. Made a 3.2T rated shackle I have look light weight and poorly made ...
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I'd be a little worried about the thread after a snatch if the snatcher was a bit overly exuberant, if the thread stretched or became disfigured in any way it could make it hard to remove the eye bolt without damaging or weakening the thread.

Personally, I would much prefer an equal amount of strain across the sub frame by the use of an equaliser strap and some decent tow hooks.
 
Would be interested to see the reply from subaru. The manual defiantly says do not tow on any surface other than a sealed road that offers little rolling resistance.
Ratbag said:
Gidday SR



Thanks for that input, mate.

I held one in my hand today, and it is a very serious bit of steel.
looked to be roll swaged or roll forged steel. Made a 3.2T rated shackle I have look light weight and poorly made ...

Of course, it is made to be screwed in fully, and I suspect it would not work properly if that were not done.

When we get the vehicle, I will read up on what the Owner's Manual says.

If that's not unambiguously clear, I will shoot off an email to Subaru Australia about it.
Click to expand...
 
Gidday Ath

Athdeb said:
Would be interested to see the reply from subaru. The manual defiantly says do not tow on any surface other than a sealed road that offers little rolling resistance.
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Section 9-12 in the 2009/MY10 Forester manual is a lot more detailed than this; and covers significantly wider issues than towing. e.g. vehicle recovery.

Towing our vehicles is very problematic because of the centre vLSD. The XS Foresters are further hamstrung by having a vLSD at the rear.
It is extremely important to follow the towing instructions to the letter with our vehicles if it ever becomes necessary. In 18 years and 234K Kms, it was never necessary with Roo1 ...

The auto Foresters/ Libertys / OBs present yet more difficulties.

Very interestingly, that section of the manual also states that one should ensure that the tie-down points are not cinched up so tightly when trucking the vehicle as to completely compress the suspension ...

If they are strong enough not to tear off in that sort of situation, I would suggest that they are more than strong enough to use for snatching if using a load distribution strap.

I also note that the manual stresses the extreme importance of tightening the recovery eye-bolt using the end of the wheel brace. Seems to bear out what I was saying previously about ensuring that it is fully and properly screwed in.
 
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