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  #181  
Unread 11th August 2019, 06:29 AM
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It could also be the radiator thermostat, only oem Subaru part works well.

Or the water pump....

Try the radiator thermostat first, its a cheap fix !
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  #182  
Unread 11th August 2019, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jf1sf5 View Post
It could also be the radiator thermostat, only oem Subaru part works well.

Or the water pump....

Try the radiator thermostat first, its a cheap fix !
Thermostat has been done about 6 months ago, replaced genuine with genuine.

Waterpump should have been done when the fan belt was changed, but the mechanic I was using upgraded their system and didn't carry over the records so I don't know and neither do they.
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  #183  
Unread 12th August 2019, 03:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Up North View Post
Waterpump should have been done when the fan belt was changed, but the mechanic I was using upgraded their system and didn't carry over the records so I don't know and neither do they.
You don't usually do a waterpump with the fan belts, ones a 5 minute job, the other is a hour or two
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  #184  
Unread 12th August 2019, 04:36 AM
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Sorry, not fan belt, timing belt
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  #185  
Unread 12th August 2019, 04:54 AM
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Ben, even when the water pump was absolutely buggered in my old Impreza, it didn't overheat.

Have you got any air bubbles or oil in the radiator when idling?
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  #186  
Unread 12th August 2019, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratbag View Post
Ben, even when the water pump was absolutely buggered in my old Impreza, it didn't overheat.

Have you got any air bubbles or oil in the radiator when idling?
Nope. Didn't have them before I had the heads done either (which was last week)
I was thinking (and had been suggested this as well) that fixing the leaky heads would have solved my running hot issues.

But it hasn't. might be marginally cooler but not much at highway speeds or climbing.

Edit: I'm still not sure how hot is too hot either, so that kinda makes it difficult to know whether I'm getting worked up over not much at all.
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  #187  
Unread 12th August 2019, 06:50 AM
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Ben, your oil temperature is more critical.

Oil viscosity is only true for a maximum oil temperature of 100C.

Of course, oil and coolant temperatures are closely related to each other.

I also suspect that the water temperature gauge in my Forester is not particularly accurate. It always reads on the bottom edge of normal even when towing my camper trailer and the fans are running ...
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  #188  
Unread 12th August 2019, 10:01 AM
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@Ratbag I'm using an OBDII reader for coolant levels. daytime temps range between 94-97 at suburban speeds, 97-17 on highway, well above going up a decent hill.
on the gauge on the car when I last went up a decent hill (friday, pretty mild day about 25deg C) it was over the top of the two marks enough to see a gap, about 108-109 on the OBDII reader (torque pro).
Only me in the car, not much weight in the back.
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  #189  
Unread 12th August 2019, 10:17 AM
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I have already seen a "bad new genuine" thermostat that had just been changed so it was quite hairy to find the issue.
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  #190  
Unread 13th August 2019, 11:39 PM
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Could be that the Engine Coolant Temp sensor is a problem in that either:
  1. it could be faulty; or
  2. there could an air bubble surrounding it which is giving a false ECT reading.

Burping the cooling system might resolve it:

park on an uphill slope, get a funnel that fits your radiator, run the car so that the coolant heats up, and fill the funnel to a level above the radiator top. Run engine to bubble stop coming up. Search around a bit there are a few threads in other forums on this.

Obviously if its the sensor you'd have to replace it.
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