OFFROADSUBARUS.com

Go Back   OFFROADSUBARUS.com > Technical Forums > Transmission and Driveline

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #31  
Old 10th June 2014, 08:34 AM
Fazed's Avatar
Fazed Fazed is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Australia
Year: 2003
Model: Forester
Transmission: Manual
Posts: 206
Fazed is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by idw View Post
It's easier to remove the 14mm grub screw that holds the ball joint into the hub than remove the strut bolts i find.
I had a look in the manual and yes just a single bolt holds the ball joint in, much easier. I was thinking more like the ball joints in other cars where you would have a much bigger task at hand.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 10th June 2014, 08:49 AM
Dedman's Avatar
Dedman Dedman is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Victoria Australia
Year: 1999
Model: Forester
Transmission: 5MT
Posts: 699
Dedman is on a distinguished road
Default

I also find that taking the top strut bolt out is the easiest. Knock out the pin holding the shaft on, take out the top strut bolt with the bottom one loose and that is enough to get the shaft off the gearbox, no disconnecting sway bar or anything. As long as you mark the position of the camber bolt its all good.
I have never tried to take the whole shaft out though as I normally just replace the CV boot under the car so I am not sure if this method would give you enough play to get the axle out with the exhausts in place. You may have to take both strut bolts out and disconnect the sway bar to remove the axle completely.
__________________
99 Foz 2.0 n/a 50mm Strut, Kings, 9000lbs Winch, Offroad Bumper, Custom Sumpguard, Snorkel
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 10th June 2014, 11:34 AM
idw's Avatar
idw idw is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: out bush
Year: sf
Model: sf
Transmission: m
Posts: 1,051
idw is on a distinguished road
Default

I also turn the wheel all the way towards the side Im removing before jacking up the car. That way there's enough room to take out the whole shaft of the hub.
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 10th June 2014, 09:53 PM
NachaLuva's Avatar
NachaLuva NachaLuva is offline
Senior Member / Product Developer
Contributing Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: SE Melbourne
Posts: 5,395
NachaLuva is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by idw View Post
It's easier to remove the 14mm grub screw that holds the ball joint into the hub than remove the strut bolts i find.
Quote:
Originally Posted by idw View Post
I also turn the wheel all the way towards the side Im removing before jacking up the car. That way there's enough room to take out the whole shaft of the hub.
Yep, this is by far the easiest way to do it with no marking camber bolts, etc. You can easily turn the wheel with the car jacked up.

NOTE: camber bolts do break! The more times they get torqued, the more likely this is to happen. I recently replaced both of mine as they have been torqued too many times for my liking. If one breaks esp while cornering you will most likely lose control
__________________
SUBIELIFTOZ, QUALITY LIFT KITS FOR SUBARUS
1" & 2" lift kits; custom lift kits; all models
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 11th June 2014, 12:30 AM
idw's Avatar
idw idw is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: out bush
Year: sf
Model: sf
Transmission: m
Posts: 1,051
idw is on a distinguished road
Default

Nacha, I like to turn the wheel before starting the work. don't like moving cars on stands or jacks if it can be avoided. But i only jack one side up at a time, would be ok with both wheels in the air
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 11th June 2014, 04:56 AM
NachaLuva's Avatar
NachaLuva NachaLuva is offline
Senior Member / Product Developer
Contributing Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: SE Melbourne
Posts: 5,395
NachaLuva is on a distinguished road
Default

I just jack up the front & put it on chassis stands. Allows more freedom. But I totally agree the ball joint method is bar far the easiest
__________________
SUBIELIFTOZ, QUALITY LIFT KITS FOR SUBARUS
1" & 2" lift kits; custom lift kits; all models
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 20th March 2018, 12:28 PM
Camshaft Camshaft is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Vancouver
Year: 1999
Model: Forester s
Transmission: Auto
Posts: 6
Camshaft is on a distinguished road
Default

Great guide wish I had just replaced my boots rather then putting junk aftermarket axles
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 20th March 2018, 06:48 PM
NachaLuva's Avatar
NachaLuva NachaLuva is offline
Senior Member / Product Developer
Contributing Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: SE Melbourne
Posts: 5,395
NachaLuva is on a distinguished road
Default

Yes, OEM Subaru axles are by far the best & tolerate increased CV angles much better than all of the aftermarket axles.

Make sure you reboot with OEM Subaru CV boots.

I'm still running the original 20 year old axles front & '97 WRX axles rear, both have been rebooted, and this is with 2.5" increased CV angle front & 3.5" rear!
__________________
SUBIELIFTOZ, QUALITY LIFT KITS FOR SUBARUS
1" & 2" lift kits; custom lift kits; all models

Last edited by Kevin; 20th March 2018 at 08:51 PM. Reason: Unnecessary use of "Quote"
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 20th March 2018, 07:32 PM
Camshaft Camshaft is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Vancouver
Year: 1999
Model: Forester s
Transmission: Auto
Posts: 6
Camshaft is on a distinguished road
Default

I should start another thread and poll on how many people have had aftermarket axle issues.
I had 2 Cardon select from rock auto and after a year my car started shacking on acceleration only.
Warrantied the axles and problem gone

Put same axles in my brothers 2001 and it’s starting to vibrate

Last edited by Kevin; 20th March 2018 at 08:52 PM. Reason: Unnecessary use of "Quote"
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 21st March 2018, 10:37 AM
scalman scalman is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Lithuania
Year: 2001
Model: Outback '01, 2.5 NA , VDC
Transmission: 4eat
Posts: 455
scalman is on a distinguished road
Default

Oem subaru axles are best. I choose oem used ones from scrapyard over any crap aftermarket. They hold like tanks with 2" lift with broken rubber boot for couple month no prob. No sounds no nothing from there. And duno how much they where used before get to scrapyard yet. No vibrations at 120km/h. No extra sound no nothing. I have allways couple for change for front and rear if i would need. Most times just changing broken rubber boot and they good again.
Aftermarket rubber boots dont hold at all.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -3. The time now is 01:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.