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  #11  
Unread 5th June 2014, 06:16 AM
rpo83 rpo83 is offline
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Thanks guys,

and no i don't sleepwalk subyroo..

Here is a great webpage giving tips for Seascape photography, it covers filters and shutter speed as well as good composition advice, well worth a read, just imagine moving the driftwood away and parking your Forester in the foreground

http://digital-photography-school.co...tography-tips/

Cheers

Steve
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  #12  
Unread 5th June 2014, 10:17 AM
XA-Coupe XA-Coupe is offline
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Long exposures and cars are your friend. One I did back when I had the XR8
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  #13  
Unread 8th June 2014, 01:57 AM
rpo83 rpo83 is offline
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Here is a great article on Panorama's, it uses Photoshop as the stitcher but if you don't have Photoshop, there are some great free Panorama programs available.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/es...anoramas.shtml

The big benefit of shooting panoramas is that you can use a long focal length lens to zoom in on your subject, then the stitching of adjacent images restores your field of view to capture a wide scene.

Hugin, is a great free program...http://hugin.sourceforge.net/

Here is a shot of Wilpena Pound that i shot as a Panorama, it was a 6 shot horizontal pano, i held my camera in portrait position...



Razorback @ Wilpena Pound by rpo83, on Flickr

Cheers

Steve
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  #14  
Unread 7th July 2014, 11:42 PM
Musafir Musafir is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpo83 View Post
Some great photos there Steve. Glad to see a fellow rider.

I recently did an outback trip in the Forester, was constantly thinking about doing the trip again on the bike. Someday..

Keep the photos coming!
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  #15  
Unread 7th July 2014, 11:50 PM
Musafir Musafir is offline
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For those who are interested in buying a ND filter, found a cheap one on eBay (item number:151307221687). Have not had a chance to test it properly (only two test shots) but for this price, you can't go wrong.

And I second digital-photography-school, a great resource to learn and improve your photography.
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  #16  
Unread 18th July 2014, 09:21 AM
oscaroo oscaroo is offline
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Oh a photography thread. Yay.
I too like taking photos. I have a whole bunch of gear. So if anyone wants questions answered regarding:
- Magic Latern
- Canon 6d
- canon 8-15mm L fisheye
- canon 70-300L
- canon 24-105, 50 f1.4/1.8, 100 f2,
- sigma 8-16mm

then i'm your man

In regards to ebay filters, i once bought one that wouldn't thread-on properly, and another that had the glass cracked, and when they finally sent me a good one it had a lot of internal reflection issues; I once also bought a cheap polariser, and it cracked easily and didn't polarise as much as a canon one. So .. really, you do get what you pay for.
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  #17  
Unread 18th July 2014, 10:20 AM
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Ratbag Ratbag is offline
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^ Gidday Oscar

I only use Hoya HMC/Pro UV filters, and Marumi DHG Circular PL(D) polarising filters.

The Hoya score best, or as good as, the best and cheaper, in testing. The CP tests on Lenstip (?) reckon that the 'higher grade' Marumi is better, but their test shots show otherwise, to my eye. Hoya do not score all that well for CP filters, even though right at the top for clear/UV/haze filters.

Some people won't use filters at all, but I have never damaged the front element of any lens while cleaning the filter ... .

I do prefer a different brand of system camera, particularly for their lenses.

Many of the photos I post here are taken with my 5 MPx Blackberry phone camera. For documentary purposes, it's hard to beat a reasonably respectable phone cam, IMHO.

I have a large format Epson printer, and I use this to print fairly large (17x22") from my digital system cameras.
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  #18  
Unread 18th July 2014, 10:37 AM
oscaroo oscaroo is offline
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Gday Ratbag.
Yeah, if you stick to reputable brands you'll be fine. I was buying a < $10 filter off ebay :/

I use filters and hoods where I can. The fisheye, clearly gets neither.
Whoa blackberry! And I thought I was a rebel with a windowsphone nokia and a saab (and also a subaru xv). I do use my phone for 360deg photos.

I have tried printing some photos i editted on the computer. Sadly, my calibrated laptop screen produces great looking photos that my $90 printer can't print. ..

Colour spaces and all that stuff still does my head in so i'm not printing anything for a while until i get time to figure it out.
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  #19  
Unread 18th July 2014, 11:32 AM
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Ratbag Ratbag is offline
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^ G'day again Oscar.

I know just a little about colour spaces and bit depth ... ... just a tad.

I always shoot RAW plus JPEG (full size/resolution, Adobe RGB colour space). Use the RAW files for everything serious. These I process in Adobe Camera Raw using ProPhotoRGB colour space and 16 bit colour depth.

Generally speaking, mapping a 12 or 14 bit RAW into a 16 bit colour space doesn't cause any significant loss of data IME. Mapping either into an 8 bit colour space causes massive, irrecoverable data loss, as does using smaller colour spaces for post-processing (e.g. sRGB, and to a lesser degree, aRGB).

Very important to use OEM inks in a reasonable decent printer such as the Canon MG6250 or similar. Only use papers that have profiles for the printer you are using. I have a favourite - Ilford Smooth Pearl. Love the texture, weight and colour correctness. Canson Gloss is another good one IMO.

Anyway, Blatner and Fraser wrote a 950+ page book that is largely about colour and colour spaces, so plenty of scope to learn. If you have a thing for pain, read it from cover to cover - I have; twice ... And lots of other stuff as well.

I also have an UWA lens that cannot take filters. It's a real cracker .
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  #20  
Unread 18th July 2014, 08:03 PM
oscaroo oscaroo is offline
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I do take pics in raw+small jpeg. The small jpeg is for webuploads and to review the raw photos quicker and delete the duds.

Ah the MG6250. I have the MX726. I do use OEM inks, but other than the standard Canon photo paper in the photo tray, I haven't tried fancier paper. Once this pile runs out i'll do some paper research.

Thanks Ratbag.
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