Rally's MY04 Forrie- Poverty Pack special

Purchased second hand. Rear diff and instrument cluster replaced under warranty. First change was to fit CB UHF GME radio. Car has externally mounted windscreen aerial bracket. Just purchased set of new KYB shock absorbers- the originals have had it- will install when they arrive. Next step is to replace standard steel rims with MY99 WRX rims. Then sump guard and driving lights.
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I had a couple of issues with the reversing camera, including a blown fuse. So I took the opportunity to relocate the ecu a bit higher. I did it mainly to make room because with the Haltech, there is a lot more wiring and there isn’t much room for it. Relocation gives a lot more room. And even though the ecu is waterproof, I look at it as another layer of protection .

 
This morning I did another test drive to check both the rear diff locker and the new dash. This time round, the diff locked in substantially quicker. It may well have locked straight away, but in any case I turned full lock the rear was already binding. So that was pleasing. I then set the shift lights on the dash. There are 4 set points. 2 for green, 1 each for yellow and red. Finally I had to calibrate the speedo, which was a bit fiddly. For some reason, the factory tacho no longer works. Might need to speak to Haltech.
 
I think an update is required on the locker! Did you work out why it failed?
 
No, only did the test yesterday. We need to determine whether it’s an electrical issue or a mechanical one.
 
On Friday we did a test run down in the southern highlands. Unfortunately it didn’t go well. The diff would disengage for reasons unknown at this stage. Since returning home, I have I have investigated the wiring inside the cabin and found nothing wrong so far. I bought another relay in case the relay was faulty. That just leaves the fuse and fuse holders as possible causes inside the cabin. I run 2 fuses for the main power supply. The first is an older one which I am re-using. It has only been used inside the cabin and never gave problems. It is located jus5 near the second battery + terminal. The second fuse is the one that came as part of the wiring kit with the diff.

Next to check is the underbody wiring. If that checks out then the next step is to remove the diff and have a look inside.
 
Here's hoping for an external cable fault!\
 
Hey Rally!
Had a chance to investigate further?
 
Yes, there is more news. As they say, good news and bad news. The good news is we believe we have found why the rear diff locker wasn’t working and believe this has been fixed. The bad news is my centre diff controller is faulty and was sent back this morning to the manufacturer in Canada. Seems like the centre diff caught some off the rear diff.....
 
Rally said:
Seems like the centre diff caught some off the rear diff.....
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Well if it is capable of catching something, I reckon it's just as likely to be offended by being put in second place:
E-locker and DCCD.
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:p
 
You didn't say what is/was wrong with the E-locker ?!

And what is wrong with the DCCD controller ?
 
Tolerances were a bit tight in the rear diff. The centre diff won’t lock. Output voltage across the wires is zero and 13.1 to earth
 
maybe rest systems just don't like that rear locker. it doesn't understand it or something
 
I am more annoyed with the centre diff problem. I expected there could be problems with the rear diff. The centre diff controller should not be giving problems, and this is the second one I have had failed. I have heard of others experiencing failures too,
 
Is the controller faulty or is the differential also part of the problem ?

Can't remember, is your controller manual or auto ?
 
I spoke to the manufacturer, and they believe the problem is the controller. I hope so. Mine is auto.
 
Another update. The manufacturer tested the controller and said it was fine. He advised that the thumbwheel was not. So he shipped back my controller and a new thumbwheel. And it still did not work. I decided to see once and for all if it was my diff, or the controller. So I applied 12v directly to the diff, and it worked. I then removed the controller, which had taken me hours to re-install. I then complained that as this was now the second unit whih had failed (One had failed on my WRX when I was competing on the skidpan. I was powering out of a corner at full throttle when suddenly the car snapped sideways and I spun. It happened incredibly quickly and there was not a chance it could ever be saved. I spun harmlessly but that was the end of the day for me). So he offered to sell me a controller for a reduced amount, and I agreed. Last time it took 2 1/2 weeks to get here, and as I write this I understand it is yet to be sent.
 
What a PIA! Fingers crossed for the new one to work.
 
After a lot of development, and some setbacks the rear diff locker finally has been successfully tested. We had found that the previous centre diff controller was faulty. When we went to test the rear locker, it wouldn’t work properly. A new centre diff controller arrived during the week. It was installed over the weekend and then both diffs were tested, the centre one first. With the centre diff locked, we locked the rear diff and it also worked. So in order for the rear locker to work properly, you need to lock the centre diff first.
 
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