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SF 1.44 Dual Range in Forester XT

Blue Fox

Forum Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
198
Location
Durango, Colorado
Car Year
2005
Car Model
Forester XT - 2" Lift
Transmission
5MT Dual-Range
I know it's been a LONG time here. Forester is back up and running (it was down for 1.5 years and just took a while to rebuild everything on it).

I have purchased a 1.44 SF dual range transmission, and have all the supporting bits to make the install. The one thing I've been trying to find is what clutch to use. I know of some Australian guys running an XT with the dual range. What clutch have you been using? I have been thinking of throwing an ACT or Exedy Stage 1 clutch to handle the torque of the turbo engine.

I know the dual-range transmissions need to be babied, especially when bolted up to a turbo, but I just want to make sure the clutch isn't slipping when off road.

Any ideas?
 
I'd just use a std OEM/exedy replacement. There are plenty of examples of them holding up fine behind reasonable power.

You want the clutch to go before the box.

I'm running a stock/exedy clutch / 1.19:1 dual-range behind a legacy twin turbo (280hp / 250+ ftlb) with no issues.
 
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A stock N/A clutch is running fine with your Legacy? That's good to hear. I'll take a look at that then.
 
I run a heavy duty push type clutch. The engine has been tuned and runs a custom gearbox with shot peened gears from a turbo gearbox 3rd to 5th and the strongest readily available 1st and 2nd also shot peened, with shot peened 1.447 low range ratio gears. I also tow a camper trailer so I didn't want to run the risk of the clutch slipping under load and boost.
 
Good to see you back BlueFox, your videos are what inspired me to get a Forester!
 
I know it's been a LONG time here. Forester is back up and running (it was down for 1.5 years and just took a while to rebuild everything on it).

I have purchased a 1.44 SF dual range transmission, and have all the supporting bits to make the install.

Welcome back, Blue Fox!

Great to hear your Fozza is back up and running. Even better to hear that you're going to bolt on a dual-range transmission. :cool:
 
Great to see you back Blue Fox :monkeydance:

Plenty of people are running a dual range gearbox behind a turbo or H6, as you say just needs to be babied a little. No launches, dropping the clutch or burnouts in low range lol :lol:

As for the clutch, I used a standard clutch when I did my engine swap (EJ22E), you could do that or a HD clutch, but don't do a puk clutch or anything too heavy. As duncanm said, you want the clutch to be the weak point not the gearbox.

Remember, the clutch part number needs to match the gearbox not the engine
 
Was wondering where you'd gone! You haven't had much luck with the Forrys have you :D Looking forward to some more cool offroad vids, especially with the DR box.
 
Thanks for the welcomes everyone.

Backstory if anyone cares:

I rebuilt the engine with new pistons a couple years ago (at 210k miles), everything was fine, then it melted a piston again (220k miles). All of the issues I've had for the past 100k miles on the car has been an intermittent injector issues. After the piston melted (cylinder 2), it scored the block. But at the time, I wasn't able to rebuild for a year due to the place I was currently living in. We had a badass garage, but it was detached and in the woods, so mice were a commonality. We were also living in an area where Hautavirus is a thing. And since we couldn't keep the mice out no matter what we did (we would clear traps everyday, 10-15 mice/day), so I essentially stayed away from the garage waiting to move for a year.

Once I moved into my new place, I built it up into a shop, and started work on the Forester. This included a "new" used engine that is running well, new wheels tires (Method VT502 Rally Wheels with General Grabbers), Mishimoto Racing Radiator, wheel bearings, all new bushings, new clutch (which is defective, but will replace when the dual-range goes in), muffler-delete with straight pipe, and some other goodies.

Once I get all the pieces in to do the dual-range swap, I will be heavily filming this to create an in-depth series on how to DR swap the car. Just waiting on the interior trim/shifter pieces for the DR to make it look factory.

I wanted to originally have the car perfect this year to make videos, but it may have to wait until next year. Perhaps I'll debut the "new" version of this car this winter with some snow videos. :iconwink:

While the Forester was down, I bought a 2000 Outback 5-Speed that I got for a great deal, and the car handled everything I threw at it. I actually enjoyed it even though it was severely slow, haha. This re-sparked my interest into Outbacks again, and back in April of this year, I bought one of my bucket-list Subarus and got a 2005 Outback XT in black with a manual transmission. I immediately started modifiying this car to make it into a low, Legacy GT wagon. So, Legacy GT Spec B suspension all the way around, Rallitek springs, Crosstrek wheels, sport tires, LGT steering rack, bushings, etc. The car handles great, makes good power and I Autocross the car regularly. This is my new daily driver that will allow me to make the Forester a bit more "extreme" for off road use.



But thanks for all the replies. Thinking of going with a 2.5RS Stage 1 clutch from Exedy, with a lightened flywheel. Still doing research on this. Maybe an ACT clutch.
 
I run a standard clutch with a dual range box behind a tuned H6. I carry reasonably heavy loads and have never had a problem.
 
I had to google hantavirus, not something you want to catch. I don't blame you for not wanting to work in the garage!

What bushes did you replace? Curious because I've only replaced some on mine.
 
I had to google hantavirus, not something you want to catch. I don't blame you for not wanting to work in the garage!

What bushes did you replace? Curious because I've only replaced some on mine.

I replaced every single bushing on the car. Rear trailing arm, lateral link bushings, diff bushings, front control arm bushings, etc. I would have to say I DO NOT recommend replacement with Urethane bushings. WAY too stiff and makes the Forester ride more like a truck. Mine are just starting to break in a bit, but I do regret going the easier Urethane route. When I do my dual-range and diff swap, I will probably remove most of the bushings and press in new OEM bushings.
 
I used SuperPro caster offset bushes for the lower control arms, love the extra caster, makes the steering heaps better. They're urethane but I don't think those ones affect ride quality much. I have heard that about some of the other bushes though.

Any pics of the Fox?
 
I wouldn't be looking at a lightened flywheel in an offroader - it'll make low rev stuff difficult to maintain.

Welcome back. I know how frustrating it is having your offroader actually off the road for a period of time for maintenance or modification... One year for a gearbox rebuild for me.

Cheers

Bennie
 
Interesting experience with the bushes.

I tend to mix and match based on their application and ease of installation (I'm pretty lazy).

OEM rubber is preferred -- we're not trying to make a track car, and you don't have to worry about squeaking and greasing the silly things. I'm also concerned urethane bushes may have a tendency to get dust and sand in them and prematurely wear.

However, for applications like diff mounts (inserts), steering rack (rubber bushes destroyed by minor oil leak), shift stay and the rear trailing arms (bugger to install OEM without a press) -- I've gone urethane.

I have noticed a bit more noise some - like the trailing arms, DIY urethane-filled gearbox mount and the shift stay, but they're not annoying, and change like the shifter has made driving much more pleasant.

Thinking of filling the engine/bulkhead stay bushes -- but suspect that would lead to plenty of extra unwanted noise.
 
So, standard flywheel and standard Exedy N/A clutch. Got it. Now just to source WRX Sedan front axles, and to source the interior trim pieces.

If anyone knows of a place to get the interior trim pieces and low-range handle, I'd appreciate it!
 
I replaced every single bushing on the car. Rear trailing arm, lateral link bushings, diff bushings, front control arm bushings, etc. I would have to say I DO NOT recommend replacement with Urethane bushings. WAY too stiff and makes the Forester ride more like a truck. Mine are just starting to break in a bit, but I do regret going the easier Urethane route. When I do my dual-range and diff swap, I will probably remove most of the bushings and press in new OEM bushings.

There are urethane bushes, and there are urethane bushes. Some are better than others. I have urethane bushes in almost every place in my Forester and I don't find it a problem. Conversely, I had another brand in my WRX which disintegrated in a short time. In the rear hub bush (the big one) I had 2 inches of movement in that one alone per side. Car was very sideways and until I saw what happened I could not figure out why.

What low range ratio are you getting in the dual range box?
 
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