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  #11  
Unread 19th January 2015, 06:07 PM
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^ Thanks for that, Id.

I think I've even seen that on Wikipedia or somewhere.

As I need to find such a power source for my UHF anyway, it seems like a good time to rectify this minor problem.

I also need to change all my cigarette lighter sockets to constant on.
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  #12  
Unread 19th January 2015, 06:39 PM
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OBDII pin out diagram and table is here:

http://www.obdtester.com/obd2_connector

Thanks .
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  #13  
Unread 19th January 2015, 06:55 PM
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Now here's a thought. Kill two birds with one stone ...

Jumper the feed wire from the battery to the relay that feeds ignition switched power to the accessory outlets directly to said outlets - i. e. unswitched.

Then use the switched output side of that relay to feed the OBD port and my UHF ...
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  #14  
Unread 19th January 2015, 10:36 PM
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One of the "popular" ways to get permanently-on auxiliary outlets is to pull the two relays out and bridge the contact slots in the bases - the power to the contacts is permanent-on.

However ... I'd be a bit cautious about going that route, for two reasons. Firstly, the wiring to the factory outlets is a tad puny (as all manufacturers strive to use as little copper as they can). So for any decent CONTINUOUS load I would seriously consider added dedicated outlets. Second reason hinges on what appliances you plan on powering from these outlets - are they really needing permanent power? I have seen this lead to flat batteries more times than I can count. I appreciate that for LED camping lights etc etc things are unlikely to go pear-shaped froma load left on unintentionally, but just pop over to the current (ouch!) "Alternatives ... CEL" thread and even a wifi/BT dongle can be a concern in this regard, as can an idling CB. Sometimes there is a better/smarter solution.
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  #15  
Unread 19th January 2015, 11:00 PM
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Gidday Zippo

Good points. What I plan to do is leave the relays in place and wired up, but not to the three accessory outlets.

Break into the wire before it gets to the relay, and take power off for the accessories from there.

The biggest drains are laptop charger (4.5A at 16V, with 12V input, almost always when travelling), car fridge (90W, 7.5A @ 12V, but will be on gas when camped), the charger for the secondary battery (2.5A @ 12V; it has an 18AH sealed lead acid battery in it) and all the miscellaneous USB items that will be plugged into a USB hub running off the secondary battery.

My tablet will run for about 2-3 days with light to medium use; over 12 hours with continuous use. It will charge at 2A if it's available.

Camp lights are either LED lanterns powered by 3x1.5V dry cells or rechargeables and a swag of LED strip lights that I will fix onto the tent hoops.

I am sure that I will need to review all this after my first trip, or during it!
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  #16  
Unread 20th January 2015, 08:45 AM
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Don't muck with the power. The constant 12v positive comes fromthe he ecu. Do not prob with a test light either unless you want to waste thousands on a new ecu!
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  #17  
Unread 6th February 2015, 04:39 AM
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Got my Mini ELM327 V1.5 today and tried it out. While it is paired with my tablet the torque app has difficulty in connecting to it. Might be because it is the 1.5 and not the 2.1 version that you have.
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  #18  
Unread 6th February 2015, 04:53 AM
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With mine, it remains paired, but the app cannot find the dongle unless I unplug it and then plug it back in.

Apparently this is because the Subie OBDII port is not switched - it is always on. The app can only find the dongle if it is switched on at around the same time as the app is started.

I have asked the developer if this bug is fixed in the "pro" ( i.e. the paid version ... ), but have not received any response from him ... .

Try the above, and see if it works?
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  #19  
Unread 6th February 2015, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratbag View Post
With mine, it remains paired, but the app cannot find the dongle unless I unplug it and then plug it back in.

Apparently this is because the Subie OBDII port is not switched - it is always on. The app can only find the dongle if it is switched on at around the same time as the app is started.

I have asked the developer if this bug is fixed in the "pro" ( i.e. the paid version ... ), but have not received any response from him ... .

Try the above, and see if it works?
So start up the app, then plug in the dongle? Or plug in dongle then app?
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  #20  
Unread 6th February 2015, 05:05 AM
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AFAICS, that doesn't matter, just so long as they are both 'powered up' at about the same time - i.e. within about 30-40 seconds of each other.

It seems that the dongle stops broadcasting its presence after a short time, and the app goes into an endless loop if it can't find the dongle within a certain time ...
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