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  #61  
Old 24th July 2014, 04:47 AM
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^ Gidday Id

Thanks for that info about that grommet.

Are you saying that it is OK to use BNC network connectors? Or not.

Last edited by Ratbag; 24th July 2014 at 04:49 AM. Reason: grommet ...
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  #62  
Old 24th July 2014, 06:19 AM
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it's ok to use bnc, a little pointless imo if your just putting it through a grommet. A little stuffing around to put a connector on either side of the firewall and keep the coax ground independent of the vehicle
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  #63  
Old 24th July 2014, 06:38 AM
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^ Thanks, Id.

I'm actually going to put it at the antenna end, behind the grill, so that I can more easily manipulate the cable. Having the cable tethered to the antenna is a right royal PITA. It makes both difficult to handle.

After joining it, I will heat shrink it to waterproof the join.

If it doesn't work properly, I guess I can always re-solder the two bits together, and wrap the joint with an extra layer of aluminium coffee can inner seal ... .

I always did my own network cabling for clients, both 10 BaseT and RJ-45 (etc). IME most network problems stem from poor handling, and the fact that most cablers were electricians. Crimped BNC connectors are tragic (IME), and most RJ-45 connections are as bad or worse ... . Don't even think about the way most Cat5 cable has been drawn and handled!

I don't think I have ever came across a network cabler who knew what the Krone Installers Manual was, let alone had read it. A nice contact let me borrow a copy of both volumes ... . Likewise, I have never come across one who knew that Cat5 and Cat6 cables have a maximum draw force, or that this varies slightly from brand to brand. Or what the difference is between Cat5 and Cat6.
Any wonder that the network cabling they installed worked poorly, if at all?

The network cabling I have installed has never given a moment's problem. Patch leads can become damaged from use and abuse, but the fixed cables should just work.

Thinking about what one is doing while doing it usually helps ... .
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  #64  
Old 24th July 2014, 07:58 AM
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Personally, I'd just leave it and deal with the annoyance. You don't want to add any uneeded extra impedance to the signal strength, i usually had to stuff around with a extra booster every couple of bnc joints when i used to work with radio mics and stage for a living. Less breaks in the shielding the better.

you'll hamper the range with a connector joint or bad solder joint at the ranger more than adding 20m of cable. Probably a bit of an exaggeration but you get the point
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  #65  
Old 24th July 2014, 08:09 AM
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^ Yeah, I originally figured that could be the case, but don't know enough about the UHF signals involved to want to jump in and screw myself in the process!

Thanks for your specific advice. It all helps in avoiding making mistakes . Better to use your experience than create my own through a long trail of learning by trial and lots of errors ... .
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  #66  
Old 25th July 2014, 01:25 AM
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No problems, the basic principles are the same between stage radio equipment and 2 way radios. Good quality coax and connections make a pretty big differences, the cable on the aerial should be good quality so i wouldn't worry about that just keep a steady hand and make the termination connection really wheel. I changed a ****ty connection job on a vhf/digital at the beginning of summer the range we got out of it after that was a huge improvement

Last edited by idw; 25th July 2014 at 01:29 AM.
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  #67  
Old 25th July 2014, 02:01 AM
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^ Sorry, I have got my terminology mixed up. I meant 10Base2, not 10BaseT ...

Interestingly, BNC connectors used for 10Base2 50Ω coax cable are able to be used for frequencies up to 4GHz, so should be absolutely fine for UHF, which is around the 477 MHz frequency.

Wikipedia article here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BNC_connector

and one of its uses is for amateur radio antennae in the UHF band, here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra_high_frequency

So the BNC connectors I have should work just fine.

Thanks again for your help .
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