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  #11  
Unread 25th March 2014, 10:15 PM
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Gidday TW, HC, NL and S2

Thanks for your kind comments everyone, and to you, TW, for being kind about what is a very rough job of fitting (so far). I hope it will look far neater once I have made a proper bracket for the unit, and moved it back about 5-7.5 mms so that my knees don't catch on the volume control when getting in and out of the car.

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Originally Posted by havachat View Post
RB,
That is awesome, now you have me really thinking!
And after seeing it in the flesh last night?

Great to finally meet in person, BTW ... .

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Originally Posted by NachaLuva View Post
Looking good, clever spot to put it
Just a sudden inspiration, mate. Realised that the strip under the switch blanks wasn't just there for aesthetic reasons, and voilą .

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Originally Posted by Scooby2 View Post
Great job so far Ratbag... very curious about where the rest of it is going!
There is a LOT of room behind that particular panel, S2. I plan to drill some holes for the speaker noise to escape through, and if that doesn't work well enough, I will panel mount an external speaker behind the dash front behind the ignition keys - that's all just empty space ... .

The Mic is a bit more complicated ...

I have a few spots in mind. When I settle on a spot, I will make up an aluminium backing plate to reinforce it, and put small bolts and nuts through the dash panel to secure the fascia plate and holder through the dash panel and the reinforcing plate behind it.
Such an item can/is subjected to surprising amounts of force in normal use; and if one mishandles it by accident, it could easily just rip a chunk out of the dash panel, screws and all - so just fixing it with the supplied self-tappers is out of the question; and even using bolts, there will have to be a load distribution plate at the back of it.

What with the cats having to stay at the Vet today for blood/urine tests; having to pick up the trailer from Jimi possibly this afternoon; and a function on late afternoon and evening; the chances of my getting any more piccies uploaded today are minimal. I want to write up each step as I do, which all takes a lot of time.

The bare photos are here for those who can't wait :

Fitting the Oricom UHF300 Micro photos

[EDIT] To see these images, you have to login as U/N = ors_guest and P/W = Subies. Both are case sensitive. Then click on the link and navigate to the relevant sub-album. [end edit]

Please note that the album is sorted from oldest to newest, rather than the default of most recent first ... .

I will follow this up with instructions for installing the aerial and power supply when the aerials arrive ...

Last edited by Ratbag; 26th March 2014 at 10:38 PM. Reason: added U/N and P/W
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  #12  
Unread 25th March 2014, 11:01 PM
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If your looking for something to cover the ugly cuts in dash work. A sharp knife, black irrigation dipper hose and a hairdryer/heat gun to straighten it out is great for making a nice edge to cover cuts in the dash. Little gasket silicon inside the tubing holds it in place as well.
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  #13  
Unread 25th March 2014, 11:54 PM
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Gidday Id

It isn't nearly as crooked as it looks in that photo, mate, but thanks for the tips, anyway.
Phone cameras at close range aren't known for lacking serious barrel distortion , and mine is definitely not an exception to that rule!

Once I have made a proper bracket for the unit, all that will be needed is a final sand with some wet & dry paper around the beige part where it's still a bit rough. Other than that, it looks as if it was supplied as part of the car , even if I say so myself ! Haven't got to any of that stuff yet, as it all has to come out again to make and fit the bracket, fit the aerial feed and connect the power ...
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  #14  
Unread 26th March 2014, 02:44 AM
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Looks great so far Ratbag

Can't wait to see it once it's finished in full

Regards
Mr Turbo
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  #15  
Unread 26th March 2014, 07:52 PM
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^ Thanks Mr T..

Aerials arrived by Aussie Post courier late yesterday.

Now the hard part begins!

From my Batphone
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  #16  
Unread 27th March 2014, 03:01 AM
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Quote:
And after seeing it in the flesh last night?
It is great that you are doing this. Your car is the prototype You make all the mistakes and we learn from it

Seriously this is going to look like a professional job when done.

Quote:
Great to finally meet in person, BTW ...
Absolutely.

I will pull my lower panel out on the week end, and see how the switch panel is fitted. As mine has two switches in use hopefully it is the same as in your car which is a later generation.
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  #17  
Unread 27th March 2014, 04:01 AM
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Thanks, HC.

The next challenge is to fabricate a special "Z" bracket for the aerial, as the beautifully made, stainless steel one I spent $15 on just won't fit, not anywhere ... .

The "Z" bracket I have bought is also too short vertically. Using it will put too much stress on the cable IMO. But I can use it as a template, so it is of some use.

What I'm considering is making a bracket to bolt on using the rear bonnet hinge on the bonnet side of the hinge. This will mean that the aerial will lift with the bonnet.

This could be a little inconvenient when the 6.5 dB whip is fitted, but mostly I plan to have the 3.0 dB stubby in use.

It will also be closer than it could be to the front P/S door pillar. However, eye-balling this, when the aerial is vertical, it is actually outside the line of the side of the main body of the car, so shouldn't effect the signal too badly. I have just measured this, and the base of the aerial will be around 700 mm from the nearest part of the P/S door pillar. The tip will be further away. When the whip is being used, it will be well above the roof line, and most of the aerial will be around 1m from any body metal.

I have considered making a base plate to which I can attach the SS "Z" plate, but I think that doing this would make the bracket weaker, not stronger.

Maybe tomorrow I will make up a rough trial version out of some scrap to get the dimensions and shape right before I make the final version out of 2-2.5 mm aluminium sheet. My bonnet is aluminium, so that's not a problem. I will get a can of touch up paint and paint the bracket the same colour as the car.

I have also considered using one of the tailgate hinge bolts, but this will make it very easy to damage the aerial, even with the stubby 3.0 dB fitted. FAR too easy, IMO.
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  #18  
Unread 27th March 2014, 08:24 PM
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I know what you mean by the little z bracket, i had mine on one for a while, it bent too easily and vibrated enough to take the paint on the bonet back to bare metal. I drilled out the top of the bonnet hinge where there was a trim plug and put the aerial there
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  #19  
Unread 27th March 2014, 08:34 PM
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Gidday Id

I could see that this would happen, and had already thought of ways of isolating the bottom mounting point from the body. I also planned to use the two screw holes in the plate to stabilise it further - much as I hate drilling holes in cars!

At that point, I started looking at the alternatives ...

Have just woken up properly (SWMBO had an early start today, and this always buggers up my sleep!), so will look at it when I have got under way ...
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  #20  
Unread 27th March 2014, 10:51 PM
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How do you intend to handle the heat dissipation? These little radios get VERY hot. Mine mounts in the center console between the driver and passenger seat, with plenty of air flow, and even so, after a day of outback driving, it's way too hot to touch. And that's just receiving; spend some time transmitting, and the heat sink gets hot enough to sizzle spit.
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