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  #11  
Unread 13th July 2010, 08:23 AM
AlpineRaven AlpineRaven is offline
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It would be interesting on your response from other on-coming drivers which they flick high beam towards you complaining that your headlights are too bright...
I have 50watt HIDs in my projectors on my Liberty and so far no one has complained but the output of the light is AWESOME..
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AP
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  #12  
Unread 13th July 2010, 09:04 AM
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UPDATE

I've broken down the components for the HID harness relay for you all. Oh, and for me as a reference of course

I have to admit that I'm pretty happy with the quality of it.
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Last edited by spinners; 19th June 2016 at 04:58 AM.
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  #13  
Unread 16th July 2010, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpineRaven View Post
...I have 50watt HIDs in my projectors on my Liberty...
Just out of curiosity, what temperature globes are you using, 4300K or 6000K?

The globes in mine are Philips 4300K.
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  #14  
Unread 16th July 2010, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinners View Post
Just out of curiosity, what temperature globes are you using, 4300K or 6000K?

The globes in mine are Philips 4300K.
Yep same, Phillips 4300k, I did have 6000k and found that light output isn't 'as bright' compared to 4300k as I do find it better lighting output...
I'm juggling if i should put HIDs in full beam....... i know its a pain that they do take a while to warm up before full strength...
Cheers
AP
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  #15  
Unread 16th July 2010, 09:41 AM
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UPDATE

I've been struggling with my battery for a month or so now. On the odd occasion I've had to clutch start. Today however, I bit the bullet and forked out for a new one.

I ended up going for an Optima Red Top as I wanted some hard core CCA's (Cold Crank Amps).

These are a fairly hardcore battery. They are an AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) battery which means that the electrolyte (the sulfuric acid) is absorbed into a fiberglass mat. We used these types of batteries heaps in the Army as they were great for withstanding vibration, heat and could be mounted in almost any orientation.

This battery has a CCA rating of 720 amps with a reserve capacity of 90 minutes. They are not cheap though. I got mine from Battery World for $340 and they threw in a new heavy duty clamp.






I'm still waiting for the connectors from the States. Hopefully they are not to far away.

I intend to install a dual battery setup some point down the track and will more than likely go an Optima Yellow Top as it lends itself more to Deep Cycle applications.

I saw some really neat fuse blocks whilst I was at Battery World also not to mention some Circuit Breaker Fuses. Approximately $18 for a 30A fuse. I know that may seem a lot but I guess there is the peace of mind that if it goes you wont have to worry about whether or not you have a spare somewhere.
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Last edited by spinners; 19th June 2016 at 06:18 AM.
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  #16  
Unread 16th July 2010, 08:17 PM
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We have Red Tops in both of our Foresters. It is the only battery I will buy.

After over 8 years of use I gave away my first one. It was still working great but I didn't want to chance Judy getting stranded. I figured at that point it owed us nothing.
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  #17  
Unread 16th July 2010, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinners View Post
UPDATE
I saw some really neat fuse blocks whilst I was at Battery World also not to mention some Circuit Breaker Fuses. Approximately $18 for a 30A fuse. I know that may seem a lot but I guess there is the peace of mind that if it goes you wont have to worry about whether or not you have a spare somewhere.
That's not expensive for something like that. We have a Painless Wiring Cirkit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Blocks in both of our Foresters. I like them because they isolate all the auxiliary wiring from the stock wiring. If there are any issues you can easily disconnect all your add-on electronics accessories.

I have this one mounted next to the glove compartment. Judy has a weatherproof one mounted on the firewall next to the master cylinder.

http://www.amazon.com/Painless-Wirin.../dp/B000A8OG2A


http://www.speedysgarage.net/sportru...irkit_boss.htm
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Last edited by spinners; 19th June 2016 at 08:32 AM.
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  #18  
Unread 18th July 2010, 05:12 AM
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Alright. A little bit of spare time on my hands this afternoon. So with the help of my now spare OEM battery, I hooked up a test circuit with the HID Relay Harness and tested out the lights and connections.

Here is a teaser. Well, a teaser for me at least. I'm hangin' to get these installed.


On a side note, I noticed that coming off the existing OEM loom was an unused plug. Upon closer inspection, it is the same plug that connects to the back of the HID headlight that looks after the light leveling. COOL


I had a look near the internal fuse block and found another spare plug. I'm hoping that this is the plug for the light leveling adjustment switch. I now need to think about what version of Australian Subarus had headlight adjustment switches.

Anyone out there know?
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Last edited by spinners; 19th June 2016 at 06:20 AM.
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  #19  
Unread 18th July 2010, 08:57 AM
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UPDATE

Went for a little search through my 2005 PDF Service Manual... BINGO... All the wiring is there and the plug behind the coin box is a 6 pin plug as the wiring schematic shows.




Now I have to track down the part and price it up. Sweet. I love plug and play
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Last edited by spinners; 19th June 2016 at 06:29 AM.
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  #20  
Unread 19th July 2010, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinners View Post
...I ended up ordering a pair of plugs from the US. AU$18 including postage I can live with.

This is what it looks like
Woo Hoo... Yeah...

5 days and they were on my desk. Now that is real service. I'll see if I can get some time this evening to silicone the rear of them up to stop water egress and post a few pics.
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Last edited by spinners; 19th June 2016 at 08:33 AM.
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actuator, ballast, bi xenon, bi-xenon, d2s, hid, levelling switch, solenoid

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