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  #1  
Unread 7th September 2018, 03:33 AM
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Default Dual-Range Flywheel/Clutch Issue?

Hello everyone,

I have completed the SF Dual-Range into my 2005 Forester XT. The transmission is working well, however I have an issue with what I believe is clutch engagement/disengagement, but perhaps something else?

What I have:

SF 1.44 Dual-Range
N/A US Forester Flywheel from 2005 Forester
N/A US Forester Exedy Stock Clutch

The Issue:

Driving the car needs great care to slowly release the clutch or it will clunk rather loudly (and you'll feel it). If you get under the car and someone slowly lets out the clutch, you can hear it sort of "clunk". It almost feels like the clutch is on/off instead of fluid in the pedal travel. I have bled it properly numerous times and can see it working smoothly.

Another thing that will happen (not sure if separate issue or part of the same) is when off road, even if not slipping the clutch all that often or at all, I will get a squishy clutch pedal randomly, and will have to pump it a few times to get it to come back to normal firmness. No smell of clutch burning at any time really.

And the LAST thing I've noticed is that my very loudly whining first gear seems to continue to whine faintly even when the clutch is pushed all the way in and I am still moving.

I am not sure if I have the wrong thickness of flywheel (and if so, is it too thick or not thick enough). Or is there something else going on like a faulty slave/master, or even the possibility of the front diff having a bit of slack? I'm at a loss. Any help would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Unread 7th September 2018, 04:07 AM
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Rally Rally is offline
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The clutch you are running is probably too weak for this engine, but unlikely to be causing these problems. Have you bled the clutch? Seems as if maybe the clutch fork isn’t properly secured on the pivot point.
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  #3  
Unread 8th September 2018, 06:07 AM
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Hey blue fox, the flywheel thickness won't be doing much in terms of creating issues. There's either an issue with the clutch pressure plate, the hydraulic system or an issue with the clutch fork.

IIRC there are two mount points for the clutch fork pivot point, which one was used?

Any marks on the clutch fork prior to instillation?

Is there a difference in the clutch master cylinder compared to the NA version, assuming you're using the NA slave cylinder?

Was the throw out bearing clipped in properly?

That first gear noise - are you sure it's the gear and not the diff or the input shaft bearing?

As for the low range, do you know what ratio you have in there? I'm pretty sure the SF only came with the better 1.477:1 ratio. You really can't compare a Subaru to a larger 4wd. - they have insane low range ratios like close to two to one and after market unts above this.

Cheers

Bennie
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  #4  
Unread 10th September 2018, 04:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rally View Post
The clutch you are running is probably too weak for this engine, but unlikely to be causing these problems. Have you bled the clutch? Seems as if maybe the clutch fork isn’t properly secured on the pivot point.
Yep, the slave cylinder was swapped (as it was completely different), so it was all bled, and then bled again when the issues started. No change in problems.

I do know that the clutch is weak for the engine, which is what I wanted being that the DR is much weaker gearbox than the stock turbo box, therefore I'd rather the clutch go up in smoke than break the transmission. So far though, the clutch is holding up much better than I thought it would with the turbo.
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  #5  
Unread 10th September 2018, 04:47 AM
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@El_Freddo

I'll try to answer your questions below:

IIRC there are two mount points for the clutch fork pivot point, which one was used?
There was only one on this transmission (at least that I could tell).

Any marks on the clutch fork prior to instillation?
No damage or marks noticed on the clutch fork before I installed it.

Is there a difference in the clutch master cylinder compared to the NA version, assuming you're using the NA slave cylinder?
I am using the NA slave cylinder that came with the transmission, but didn't even think about the master cylinder difference between the turbo and the NA versions. There is a part difference, and very well could be the cause.

Was the throw out bearing clipped in properly?
Yes, made sure of that.

That first gear noise - are you sure it's the gear and not the diff or the input shaft bearing?
The rather loud whining is only in 1st gear (regardless if in low or not). Sounds like reverse, which is also excessively loud and a bit chattery compared to my 5MT Turbo Outback. Reverse also pops out of gear if you go to fast, so I just hold it. I could see it being an input shaft bearing, but no other whining in any other gear.

As for the low range, do you know what ratio you have in there? I'm pretty sure the SF only came with the better 1.477:1 ratio. You really can't compare a Subaru to a larger 4wd. - they have insane low range ratios like close to two to one and after market unts above this.
This is the 1.44:1, yes. Even with the rather light gear reduction, the low range has completely transformed this far off-road. The low just allows it to crawl much better than it did before. I would just like to get the hardened gear set eventually so it's a stronger transmission.
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  #6  
Unread 10th September 2018, 05:05 AM
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Welcome to the world of dual range turbo 2.5 off road Subaru’s. There’s not that many of us with such a setup, even in Australia , let alone the US and hopefully you can sort the issues out soon. No doubt a lot of your fellow countrymen on ORS are a bit jealous! Being able to exploit the torque of the 2.5t makes for a very capable off-roader. What diff ratios are you running?
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Unread 10th September 2018, 08:27 AM
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The problem could come from the clutch master cylinder. I had this happen to mine and resolved it by spraying some silicone in the cylinder while pushing the clutch pedal. It makes the piston seal slide smoothly. Hope it helps.
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  #8  
Unread 10th September 2018, 10:27 AM
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The clutch needs to match the gearbox remember, not the engine or the car it's in. There can be some subtle differences between flywheels in how far they sit out, same with the clutch plate. It might be you have the wrong one.

Use the Exedy clutch finder (Aus not US) & find the clutch for your dual range gearbox, then see if it matches what you used

http://www.exedy.com.au/clutch-finder
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  #9  
Unread 10th September 2018, 07:42 PM
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I don't know about the clunking, but any squishy-ness is likely a leak - air getting in the system.

Replace the slave and the line.

What's the condition of the slave you swapped in ? Maybe if it was sitting around on the box unused for a long time, its got a rust-line in the bore and that's giving you the on-off (and also squishy when stuck in) response.

Would be easy to pull and inspect the bore.
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Unread 10th September 2018, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duncanm View Post
I don't know about the clunking, but any squishy-ness is likely a leak - air getting in the system.

Replace the slave and the line.
Yes I forgot about the flexible line. This is famous for getting a tiny pinhole leak, so small you can't see it & barely makes the hose damp so it can be difficult to detect, but enough to make the pedal spongy. Mine was bad enough that the pedal dropped straight to the floor, but when I took that spiral wrap off was barely able to feel any dampness on the hose.

I'd replace the hose, pretty cheap & very easy to do, IMO a good starting point. Make sure you use new copper washers
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