Lift Pattern (DIY Lift Kit Information)

Just the angle of photo.
(I should have took more and better photos but once I get going in the garage I forget about the camera)
6mm offset fronts and rears.
 
Also if you can do a 2 in strut lift and a 1" Spring lift is there a problem with just doing a 3" strut lift instead of both? What do you lose?
 
thatguy said:
Also if you can do a 2 in strut lift and a 1" Spring lift is there a problem with just doing a 3" strut lift instead of both? What do you lose?
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I know if you go much more than 2" for the strut lift your asking for CV troubles. Add a 1" spring lift and you might have similar results, but I'm not sure. I think Kevin has strut and spring lift so he might be able to answer better, but I believe his strut lift is only 40mm (1.57").
 
Good point well I guess Ill just have to be thrilled with the 2 in lift. I wouldnt want to put too much strain on the CV joints since I do drive alot.
 
Here is my Prelim drawings. I am going to print them out at full scale to make sure the holes match up right but what you guys think? btw anyone who uses these drawings is using them at their own risk
picture.php
 
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thatguy said:
Here is my Prelim drawings. I am going to print them out at full scale to make sure the holes match up right but what you guys think? btw anyone who uses these drawings is using them at their own risk.
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They look pretty good.:) You might want to make the stud holes a bit smaller, 8mm screw measures about .310" so like yelnats_j's drawing has them at .3218", this will depend on what type of fastener you use too. If you used a press in (splined) stud it may need to be a bit larger. Remember you won't be able to get a wrench on the bottom of the top plate so they have to be secured in the plate somehow. The dimensions on the lower left side of the front plate look a bit cluttered and unnecessary, but that would be me complaining if I was trying to make it.:iconwink:
 
frogstar7055 said:
I threaded my top plates and tack welded the head of the bolt once it was on lift block.
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Good idea I think I will follow suit

carljwnc said:
They look pretty good.:) You might want to make the stud holes a bit smaller, 8mm screw measures about .310" so like yelnats_j's drawing has them at .3218", this will depend on what type of fastener you use too. If you used a press in (splined) stud it may need to be a bit larger. Remember you won't be able to get a wrench on the bottom of the top plate so they have to be secured in the plate somehow. The dimensions on the lower left side of the front plate look a bit cluttered and unnecessary, but that would be me complaining if I was trying to make it.:iconwink:
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This is why I post them up to try to perfect them. I printed them out full scale the other day and the front looks to fit well but the rear I messed up the top hole a little. I'm gonna borrow the calipers again and adjust.

Where should I get the other set of studs from? Are they anything special or can I just go down to ace or advanced auto and pick up a generic 8 mm stud?

Thanks, Owen
 
thatguy said:
Where should I get the other set of studs from? Are they anything special or can I just go down to ace or advanced auto and pick up a generic 8 mm stud?

Thanks, Owen
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frogstar7055 said:
You want grade 10.9 metric studs/bolts.
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You might be able to find the right grade at Advance Auto Parts, hardware stores (Ace, Lowe's...) a lot of times don't have the better grades, especially in metric.
 
What type of steel did you use? Is it 5mm mild steel flat bar?
What is the wall thickness of the tubing?

Sorry for all the questions but my fabricator friend will ask me, so I thought it would be good if I knew the answers.

IanC
 
Top and bottom plats are 1/4 inch.
Wall on tube was around 1/4 to 3/8 inch but I have a tendency to WAY over-engineer things.
 
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