WRX alloys vs stock steel - strength?

As the title says, how strong are the 16" gold WRX STi alloys off a GC Impreza, versus the stock 16" steel wheels from an SG Forester? Reason I'm wondering is I have the opportunity to buy a set of WRX wheels for $100, in town.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/ca...eels-tyres/alloy-wheels/auction-799927068.htm

Personally I think the gold colour works well with the green of my car, better than the silver wheels currently on it, and I love the style of the WRX wheels. Kinda like these (but a Foz, and different wheels).


Cheers guys.

Steel wheels bend very easily, they're heavy so increase unsprung weight, reduce fuel efficiency and look ****. Go alloy.

2nd that. Cant go wrong with sti alloys. Looks good

I like both steelies and alloys... either work well..
just remember the offset with the wrx rims isn't great.

Yeah the wrx alloys are +53, the stock steels are +48 so the track will be a bit narrower but nothing major. Cheers for the input.

The offset difference is usually to compensate for the extra width. If they are 7" +58 compared to 6.5" +48 they actually stick out a little further.

If you run/want to run higher profile tyres keep in mind that the +53 is going to reduce the spring perch clearance.

Wheel offset is to ensure that the wheel is centred over the thrust plane of the wheel bearings (etc) for the particular car and suspension geometry. This maximises the resistance of both the bearings and the axles to side thrusts that occur during cornering etc.

It also ensures that when the car is running straight that the forces on the wheels and suspension components are applied to the 'engineering centre line' of the bearings.

If this alignment is changed (particularly outwards), it can greatly increase these forces, leading to sudden failure of components in use (breakage) or premature failure from abnormal wear.

It is a major reason why wheel spacers of any description are banned in Australia, I suspect. Even if they are properly designed and manufactured, their effect is to place stresses on the wheel bearings, axles (or stub axles) and other suspension components that these components are almost certainly not designed to withstand.

Just FWIW.

I'm running standard width 215/65r16s, so slightly larger diameter but no wider than factory, so fit under the guards should still be fine. It hadn't really occurred to me that the new wheels may be wider - I hope my tyres still fit.

Cheers RB, it does make sense to have a narrower offset if the wheels themselves are wider. If my track width increases as a result I'll be happy, should make cornering marginally more stable. I'm mainly doing this as I hate the look of the steels and would like the benefits of a lower unsprung weight too.

In other news, my head gasket oil leak is worsening and my aircon needs recharging. I'll be getting a new timing belt, tensioners, pulleys, water/oil pump, seals, clutch and HGs by Christmas. I'll also upgrade to Kings and KYBs at the same time, hopefully with a Whiteline RSB and detachable endlinks. I'll be doing the suspension my self but the engine and clutch are getting done by a mechanic. i don't trust myself enough for that... I may also be fitting a UEL header and free-flowing axleback, but I don't want it too loud.
Anything else I should get done/do at the same time? DCCD gearbox is out of my budget at this point (if only I didn't have to do the HGs...).

kiwifoz said:

I'm running standard width 215/65r16s, so slightly larger diameter but no wider than factory, so fit under the guards should still be fine. It hadn't really occurred to me that the new wheels may be wider - I hope my tyres still fit.

Cheers RB, it does make sense to have a narrower offset if the wheels themselves are wider. If my track width increases as a result I'll be happy, should make cornering marginally more stable. I'm mainly doing this as I hate the look of the steels and would like the benefits of a lower unsprung weight too.

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You have nothing to worry about. Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim 5mm closer to the suspension strut and spring perch.The outer rim will poke out 5mm less than before. So your track width is narrower.

Plenty of SF/SG foresters both "high and low" :ebiggrin: around the world have already run this combo.

Cheers

Yes me included... I ran 225/70R15's with 3" lift on some RS impreza rims for about 18months.

kiwifoz said:

Personally I think the gold colour works well with the green of my car, better than the silver wheels currently on it, and I love the style of the WRX wheels. Kinda like these (but a Foz, and different wheels).

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Me too, I've always loved the look of those wheels. Classic design with an awesome gold, perfectly suits any colour car but esp green, red, blue & black

kiwifoz said:

I'm running standard width 215/65r16s, so slightly larger diameter but no wider than factory, so fit under the guards should still be fine. It hadn't really occurred to me that the new wheels may be wider - I hope my tyres still fit.

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It's not fitting under the guards that would be an issue, its clearing the spring perch on the strut.

215s will easily fit a 7" rim, in fact it will make the tyre wall roll less during cornering for better handling :biggrin:

I'm mainly doing this as I hate the look of the steels and would like the benefits of a lower unsprung weight too.

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I hate the look of the steelies too but what I really hate about them is the way they trap mud & unbalance the wheel

Less weight gives better road holding, fuel economy, etc. Alloys FTW!

I'll also upgrade to Kings and KYBs at the same time, hopefully with a Whiteline RSB and detachable endlinks.

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Are you going raised or standard Kings? You could also add 1" spacers for the rear for a bit more lift & some nice forward rake