Outback '01 2.5 4eat VDC project

So couple years ago i bought myself my first subaru ever and after long time thinking took outback against forester. Didint had budget for newer one so went for some 2nd gen that i found

Top original, lower 2"" lift with BFG TA KO2 215/65 R16
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It was 2001 subaru outback 2.5 4eat eith rear LSD and early VDC package. All weather with heated seats, windows, climate control.
It has rear self leveling shocks still ok condition so i left them just put 2" spacer on top. Not sure is it made car harder and less comfy but it can take load very well. But its not soft car to drive fast on bad roads
Then i cut front bumper and put steel skid plate just for engine. Diy it myself from steel sheet from scrapyard
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yes - but I'm a tightwad, so I have to build up motivation to set aside a day or so to whack one in.


Might do it when I do the next 100k service -- probably have to pull the donk as the rear main seal appears to be weeping. Some time in the next 12-ish months.
 
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Doing lift is very easy well with strut spacers at least and fast. Just rear spacer puts shock on angle thats why ppl put arm spacer as well so that shock would come back to normal position. I didint have that and with time it might affect smt .
 
so at last at last made what i wanted all time since i got hi lift jack. i can lift now rear as well. so now hi lift its fully functional just for work on rear when i need remove wheel or when i would be stuck to lift rear of car. now i can lift every corner with hi lift. very simple too. anyone can put this into subaru as well. its nothing welded just bolted on
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I saw that first [icture and thought you were going to weld into the the boot!

don't forget to put something under the car in case the jack slips. Not worth the risk, however minor it may be.
 
Awesome work though !!
Will you need to remove the bumper to use the hi lift on rear ?
Or will you make access holes ?

Cheers

1WD
 
i will cut holes for it into bumper. thats was all point of doing that. i made it so tube goes from car body 15cm out because thats distance that bumper is there so i could use it anytime i need. could make some recovery points on those too. something like those could work there
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or at least make one as hitch point. i still wanna make there trailer hitch so that would be thing that i need.
 
I like the idea of you using your new idea as recovery points,
Could be very useful as long as it’s strong enough.

1WD
 
well i saw most foresters using rear trailer hitch as recovery point , so thats same place where trailer hitch is bolted on, im just thinking maybe make that tube like double thinkness. then those tubes that they sell looks same thickness wall as mine is .
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does my points are strong enough , well i duno yet im just thinking that if you put trailer hitch is like you automaticaly have recovery point , well thats what people using anyways , so how my tubes are less strong then trailer hitch ?and i will make something like trailer hitch there as well. well again everything is custom made so i can make it stronger with time if needed put more stell there and there in places that most need it . i just look at those trailer hitches that they sell and thinking of some my ideas how it could work. and in worst case scenario if something bends there i will know where to make something stronger.
as my stcok recovery point just rusted away as they under car, so thats now my only stronger point in rear that i have. is it strong enough well i will see. not that iwill using it everyday or even every month. its just in case i would need it . lift points thou i will use now all time to just lift car when i will need it . why else i carry hi lift in trunk all times. and its heavy as well. so it must be for reason there .

im just thinking could i make something like that or it must be bought
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or ask someone to make it for me. as i cant find those things here localy or in local online shops.
 
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Today cut bumper for hi lift points and tried to make my own version of hitch style recovert point from tubes that i had. Holes for now 10mm , that for shackle will be 12mm later and with shackle will try how strong its for recovering
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Adapter end for shackle is double tubes one inside another so its 6mm thickness and in some places even 8mm. It should be strong.
I could double thickness on my main tubes as well for more strenght if needed.
 
I think my adapter will be too thick for shackle ar least for 4.7t one as it has gap just about 3.2cm and my tube is 4cm. So in wont fit at end. Will redo it or just make new from aluminum, will see how much that would cost.
I must make custom because all those that sell is 2" which is 5cm and mine tube is 4cm so i must make my own anyways.
Now i looked at shackles that ppl uses on foresters here are 2 options 3.25t with 27 gap and 18.6 pin or 4.75t with 32 gap and 22 pin.
Of course that 4.7t would be better.
 
some more black plastidip in rear bumper and angles
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Cleaned car inside and outside polished outside and cleaned leather seats
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what i bought vs what i got today

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i didnt changed color though it looks diff because lighting / filters , etc.. in real life its different color then both those haha.
 
I like the first picture better but thats just me, I prefer the stock looking cars in general (but with lots of mods inside !)
 
ohh i liked look of stock as well. but i bought subaru for that "subaru AWD" part of it .so i made it practical as well. and inside its pretty much stock as it was made. i still can say : this is how outback can drive places it can drive and take me. it dont need mods lockers or other parts to help it do that. and thats great for me. it just works. i wont lift it more or do more with it. now i can recover myself from bad situations even if im alone and i can just have fun and drive to places. that was my goal with this car.

bought couple 3.25t omega shackles and kinetic rope will be next thing . some 25mm 12m long i think. then will ask locals forester guys to help me test that
still need do some welding to cover some rust holes some places where water mud salt snow could go inside and just damage car more.
still dont have rear recovery points though. thinking of making 2 recovery points on sides as i thought i can or maybe one like trailer hitch thing as most using . not sure it rear is strong enough to hold on when someone would pull me off with rope so must see what i can do there to make it as strong and i can. with that strong places that are left in rear. i can lift car no problem now but pulling by same place can be different story i think. metal tube can bend or even brake if its just holds on 2 bolts and its long tube too. so still got some thinking there or just try something test it then try something else.

as car is in 1 picture it wouldnt go where i go with it now . simple as that. its not forester but i made it similar or better to foresters now .

will all that i still have some questions in my head . like can my car be pulled by that ?
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just i would put there something like that
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meaning if i make something there as recovery point with hole that i could attach shackle there , can i be pulled just by that tube is it strong enough point or not. i think it can be too long sticking out so if i would be pulled to side it would bend to side, simple as that its just tube and it can bend. so can make it stronger then as put there second tube on top of that to make it like double thick tube and i think if i could weld there tube between them as some trailer hitch they both would make stronger point there do they not ?
im sure i can pull car just as pulling on road by that but pulling car from mud or sand with other car its different story , though all local foresters here just using trailer hitch for all recoveries from rear and they never failed. so now im thinking ok that trailer hitch is just bolted to sides and nothing more. similar to what i could make in rear too.

so what idea of making tube stronger is ok i have just tube ..its maybe not strong enough , but if i put smaller tube inside that and maybe another one inside that one and i weld them together on both ends now i have 3x stronger tube maybe even more.
so my idea was this
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and i already made kinda that thing with my kinda home made shackle that is in that picture.
my concern is my tube is not 50mm as they make those d ring shackle adapters as standard. my tube is 35mm . and in it i need to have shackle adapter that should have 18.6mm hole for that shackle pin. now im thinking what weakest point in all that is gonna be .
so as they selling those d ring shackle adapters they are nice and strong but all that strenght then goes to that little pin that locks that adapter to hitch andn there is just normal tube standard thickness,
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so all this strong thing just holds on that
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i must think on that some more...
 
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last shackle adapter was not right size for shackle so i made new one. today one , will do another one same . my tube on car inside is 40x40 but shackle is just 27mm wide on that point where you need to mount it so i bought 25x40 tube. so that 25mm fits shackle, but its too high same size as my tube on car and it need to go inside it , so i made it smaller to fit that and wider to sides , same time sides become double thickness, much stronger

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Dont you think that tube thats coming from car is like not strong enough to work properly as recoverg point? Im thinking of that a lot now. Lile should i put extra metal on it make it stronger. I mean its long tube coming from car that can bend if i would tow something to sides dont you think? I see now that as week point . guess i should connect them with tube between them to make it like trailer hitch .
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I think to tow something in straight line maybe those separate tubes are fine but if do some car recovery i need that tube between them and from that i could make trailer hitch as well.
 
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