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  #21  
Old 25th April 2018, 03:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ratbag View Post
Ben, the water pump is at the bottom centre of the front of the block. You have to pull the front of the motor apart to get at it.

Good idea to do the timing belt at the same time.
Ahh.. Timing belt only done 10,000k's ago. I wonder if we did the water pump at the same time.. I don't think so. will have to check, because that sounds like a pain in the butt to have to change if I don't need to!
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Old 25th April 2018, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Up North View Post
Can a thermostat be faulty and not open as much as it should? Or if it's faulty would it just not open at all (Or conversly, remain stuck open)?
OEM thermostat?

Aftermarket thermostats are generally smaller that the Subaru OEM ones.

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  #23  
Old 25th April 2018, 04:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Up North View Post
Ahh.. Timing belt only done 10,000k's ago. I wonder if we did the water pump at the same time.. I don't think so. will have to check, because that sounds like a pain in the butt to have to change if I don't need to!
If the timing belt is replaced ar 100,000km, so must the water pump, tensioner, pulleys and seals.
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Old 25th April 2018, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Up North View Post
Ahh.. Timing belt only done 10,000k's ago. I wonder if we did the water pump at the same time.. I don't think so. will have to check, because that sounds like a pain in the butt to have to change if I don't need to!
If the timing belt is replaced ar 100,000km, so must the water pump, tensioner, pulleys and seals.
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  #25  
Old 25th April 2018, 07:31 AM
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Well according to the ssticker on the car, the belt was last done at 155,000.
Gonna have to check the thermostat. for the cost of one, may as well just replace it. With OEM.
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Old 25th April 2018, 08:38 AM
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Ben, are you just using the factory temp gauge as your reference to the increase in engine temp?

If so install an aftermarket digital or analogue gauge that's plumbed into the heater hose - just make sure you've got it plumbed into the hose that the coolant comes from the engine. To identify this hose, it's NOT the one that goes to the waterpump (via under the intake manifold and between the block and cam covers.

A scan gauge may work too - read what the ECU is looking at

You might find you don't have an issue to stress about.
Another trick I've heard of others doing is adding a "H" pipe between the in and out heater hoses. The pipe between the two main hoses is restricted and works like a bleeder that bypasses the heater. If there is a partial blockage of the heater core, this could be effecting the operation of the thermostat.

Oem thermostat is the only way to go in these machines

Cheers

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  #27  
Old 11th May 2018, 08:44 AM
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Went for a run up one of the hills today (15min climb, windy roads) when the guage started moving I waited until it was almmost to the upper of the to middle marks and turned on the heater. Temperature came down to normal quite quickly.
Exterior Temp was probably about 5-7 deg cooler than the last time I went up, I think that might have made a little difference as the car didn't heat up so quickly. I was taking it a bit easier to though.
Turning on the heater definitely made a big difference, not sure what that signifies though, but seeing as it didn't used to get so warm in it's youth it might mean that the thermostat was at some stage replaced with an aftermarket jobby with less flow.

Might wait until next service before progressing further with the thermostat unless things change, because if a short blast with the heater is enough to get us up these bigger climbs I can live with that for a bit. Not sure what the missus will think though..!
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  #28  
Old 12th May 2018, 04:13 AM
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This happens when you drive through mud and it splashes up and blocks the radiator fins. Run the hose through it (no pressure washer though), see how dirty the water is coming out the bottom. If it's really bad then pull it out and give it a decent hose.
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