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Old 1st January 2012, 10:41 PM
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Default Gearbox/ Diff Oil, "98 Forester

Does anyone know what gearbox oil I should use in my '98 Forester 5spd DR?

Since I got it about 6mths ago I have had big problems with it crunching gears & when its cold sometimes it refuses to go into 2nd. Even when hot it wont go into 1st unless completely stationary.

The oil is at the right level & clear (slightly yellow but clear, if you know what I mean).

I know there's all sorts of tricks you can do to help the synchro, like additives, better oil, etc. Someone somewhere mentioned red stuff...

What can I do to get the synchro working properly?

Also I will put in a diff breather sometime, & I'll do the diff oil at the same time. What should I use for that?
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Last edited by NachaLuva; 1st January 2012 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 1st January 2012, 10:48 PM
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I use multitrax in my Forester gearbox and syntrax in my Impreza
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Old 1st January 2012, 11:54 PM
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I'm not sure what is used in my rear diff but for the front (Gearbox/Diff Oil) I use Syntrax 75W/90 in my Forry (MY05 XT man)

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Old 2nd January 2012, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rally View Post
I use multitrax in my Forester gearbox and syntrax in my Impreza
What grade? Why the different oils?

If the synchro is worn will a lighter grade help?

& what about this thing of adding some auto fluid to the oil to help with shock resistance...or is that one of the many urban myths?
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Old 2nd January 2012, 02:40 AM
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The Forrie runs the 5 speed dual range box and the low horsepower, so the mineral oil should suffice. The Impreza runs the 6 speed gearbox and probably twice the power and I compete in that, so I prefer the synthetic oil for the harder life the Impreza has (Impreza has launch control 6000RPM dumps, etc). Some people have found Redline (I think that is the brand) oil but I understand it is both expensive and needs more numerous changes. I think the Multitrax is only available in 80W90, and I think the Syntrax also is only available in one viscosity. I understand Subaru gearboxes require specific oils like Multitrax- I don't think you can use just any gear oil. Don't know about adding ATF- although some manuals do run it, I have not heard of it being combined.
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Old 2nd January 2012, 03:15 AM
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I have used Syntrax ever since I swapped the gearbox over a couple of years back and then refilled with some cheap GL5 rated oil. Gear change was terrible!! Syntrax has worked well for me and although it costs a bit, not as if you change it all the time.

I do find 2nd gear a little tight to get into on cold mornings, but for me that would be around 0-5 degs in winter.
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Old 16th January 2012, 05:59 AM
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After much discussion & research, I've settled on Penrite SIN GEAR 75

Its fully synthetic, 75W90 API GL5/6. A little expensive, 2x 2.5L containers cost $110, but I wont have to do it again for a while & it should help my gear changes


So today I did my 1st gearbox oil change

Took a bit of effort to get the nut off, magnet had some filings but I dont think too bad (comments?):


Then cleaned. Note the magnet in the middle (very nice touch Mr.Fuji):

By nachaluva at 2012-01-16

I had just put through 2 cans of SUEC so the air filter assembly was already off giving me easy access to the filler/dipstick. I put in about 4L., reassembled everything & went for a spin around the block.

There is some improvement but not as much as I had been hoping for. I'll know more when I have a decent drive, esp when its cold.
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Old 16th January 2012, 06:29 AM
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Gidday NL

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nachaluva View Post
What grade? Why the different oils?

If the synchro is worn will a lighter grade help?
A synchro ring is like a small, conical clutch that spins the stationary gear up to speed as you engage the gear. The gear is actually always engaged, however the synchromesh ring has teeth around both of the two parts, one set on the synchro ring, and the other as part of the gear (three in the 2006 Forester ... apparently). When you engage the gear, the synchro ring spins the gear and the synchro ring on the input shaft up to the same speed, and then a third part (collar) slides over the two toothed circumferences, locking the two parts of the assembly together.

Of course, this only applies to constant mesh gearboxes. One is unlikely to encounter a non-constant mesh gearbox these days, except maybe in a tractor ... .

I haven't thought about it before, but it is likely that a heavier grade oil would help, rather than lighter ... As the cones get worn, one needs a higher viscosity oil to help them "grab". In a normally functioning box, the oil is largely there to keep the two parts from welding together ...

Quote:
& what about this thing of adding some auto fluid to the oil to help with shock resistance...or is that one of the many urban myths?
I would be willing to listen to ideas about this, but it sounds a tad strange to me ...
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Old 16th January 2012, 07:08 AM
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Got a guestion for you guys while we are talking about gears.

Does down or upshifting and skipping a gear cause any problems??

I.E going from 3rd to 5th or 4th to 2nd?
Or even 5th to 2nd which I do abit??

Taza
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Old 16th January 2012, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taza View Post
Does down or upshifting and skipping a gear cause any problems??

I.E going from 3rd to 5th or 4th to 2nd?
Or even 5th to 2nd which I do abit??

Taza
Only if you over rev it lol

I'd try to protect 2nd as much as you can, its always the 1st to develop problems, but if you blip the throttle as you downshift to rev match (& dont over rev lol ) I cant see a problem
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