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  #11  
Unread 9th December 2017, 04:19 PM
scalman scalman is offline
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yh i think 2'' its enough for me . never was in situation when i would hang up somewere and couldnt move.
could try those arm bolts at some point if they would move i would then put there some spacers . will see.
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  #12  
Unread 10th December 2017, 04:32 AM
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2" front 2.5" rear is the most you can lift your BH Outback safely. There are some people in the US who have a 4" lift but this uses 4" subframe spacers. Imagine spacers that are 2" wide & 4" high holding the entire rear suspension in place! I've had people asking me to do it but I won't make such an unreliable lift kit, just not worth the risk
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  #13  
Unread 10th December 2017, 07:46 AM
scalman scalman is offline
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Yh i no need go that far lift body then lowered diffs just to have same ground clearance. And my rear is allready little higher then front maybe because of self leveling shocks or bad front shocks.
So front sway bar off would give me more flex in front nothing more i could get from this lift.
I saw somewhere someone put front arm spacer too but as i understand thats no needed.
Still im little puzzled of one thing, when i look at other cars with lift foresters or outbacks they all have wheels in same places as before lift i mean track width, but my wheels went inside car specially seen on front. So are they just using wheel spacers there or diff kind of rims or im missing something here. My track width went shorter 20mm after lift means wheels of each side went inside 1 cm. But its just for looks anyway. And i get less mud on side of car because of that.
I guess its understandable more you lift car , more wheels drop down and they go inside.
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  #14  
Unread 10th December 2017, 01:02 PM
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To keep the track width, I changed the rear lateral links (+15mm/side) and front A-arms (+10mm/side) to SG5's. Also have 7 x 16 ET30 Compomotive wheels.
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  #15  
Unread 10th December 2017, 02:59 PM
scalman scalman is offline
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ohh good thing you could change parts from other models. i wonder does my outback can do that too or its just need then custom adjustable links . which i wont be bying. i think my only option is wheel spacers there.
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  #16  
Unread 21st April 2018, 08:57 AM
scalman scalman is offline
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So i have lift kit without any camber or caster offset and i wanna to redo it now with offset. As much as i looked cant find numbers anywhere. Found only some numbers for forester sf i think and couple people said and agreed there that you need to make 7mm offset inside strut to get almost factory camber. But thats forester. It could be similar to 2nd gen outbacks but im not sure. Still that could work but now what about caster offset? Cant find any number anywhere. How much push it and to what side? Looked at those quality made lift kits for this gen outbacks and they have only front offsets and nothing in rear so rear is ok but what of front . anyone can confirm that its same 7mm for those outbacks as for foresters or no? Will do it anyways and test later just would be nice to have more info on that. I get it that people pay money for those kits but there are people everywhere who do most stuff diy still and could even do that better.
So what happens with straight lift spacers is that and why we need offset inside is this

Still dont know about that caster offset and should i even be woried for it.

Last edited by scalman; 21st April 2018 at 03:16 PM.
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  #17  
Unread 21st April 2018, 01:03 PM
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If you are good at geometry, you can draw it and will find out but I think that the numbers for the Forester are approximatively the same for the Outback. More caster makes the car more stable at higher speeds and the steering wheel feels a bit "heavier" but I wouldn't bother...
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  #18  
Unread 21st April 2018, 01:57 PM
scalman scalman is offline
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Good to know. I thought same too. So just draw straight lines forward 7mm and weld top plate.
When i lifted car with front sway bar it was not enough space to remove strut with spacer, i thought i should disconnect it at first so then it moved down maybe some 5-7 cm more so i guess thats how much more i would get flex without front sway bar on offroad.
But then with my 4cm front lift i was saving front cv axles more and with 5cm they will be used more . but i will go for 5cm front maybe even 5.2cm
As for rear you think i could make bigger spacer for rear to 2.5" ?. now i have 2" or 5cm . because with 5cm front will be higher then rear so i could redo rear spacers to 2.5" no prob if that wont bring more problems to my cv axles thou.
I could add another 1cm to rear spacer so it would become 6cm / 2.36". You think that suspension still works ok with 2.5" lift in rear?
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  #19  
Unread 21st April 2018, 02:52 PM
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Everything should work with 2" front and 2,5" rear. The limiting factor is the inner CV's, not the suspension. With more lift, you will only gain ground clearance and better angles, not more wheel travel.

For the front struts, you have to give more caster towards the back.
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  #20  
Unread 21st April 2018, 03:20 PM
scalman scalman is offline
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will i get less travel with more lift then ? strut spacers shouldnt do that do they ? stuff spring could do more bad stuff on offroad i guess.
so front struts spacer caster offset i should move strut more to back car you mean. so top plate with bolts should go to front car from strut correct ? how much i could do it ? 1cm ? less ? 0.5cm ?
yh i understand with more lift i will put more angles on inner CV so it will hold less until rubber brake or something else then ? i just ment that when lifting car best way is to disconnect front sway bar as it will hold everything tight and wont let your wheel go more down. and if i would rive like that i would get some more travel in front .
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