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  #11  
Unread 10th December 2016, 12:47 PM
MiddleAgeSubie MiddleAgeSubie is offline
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Model: H6 5EAT OB with SubieLiftOZ kit / Tribeca
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Gotta love this level of enthusiasm and DIY competence. Amazing job. Thanks for sharing this unique experience!
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  #12  
Unread 10th December 2016, 09:20 PM
Jeremiahs22 Jeremiahs22 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fairbanks, AK, USA
Year: 1998
Model: Forester S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jf1sf5 View Post
Very nice !

From what I see, you will have 2 upper arms and 1 lower arm, right ?
Not quite. The upper two mounts are for an A arm, and the bottom mount is the front mount for the lower A arm. The rear mount will be pretty close to the factory location.

Quote:
Originally Posted by daniel glavin View Post
Dude. This is insane. Super awesome man keep it coming.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MiddleAgeSubie View Post
Gotta love this level of enthusiasm and DIY competence. Amazing job. Thanks for sharing this unique experience!
Thanks so much guys! Really appreciate it.

Latest news is that the uniball joints came in, so I tacked two of the cups into the knuckle i've been using for mockup:

DSC00569 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

But the bad thing is that the none of the local steel places have the DOM I need, and Amazon doesn't offer it via Prime anymore -lol- so it's going to be about 2.5 weeks until I have the tubing, which is when I'll be in Wyoming for Christmas. Probably should've checked that out a long time ago lol. Time to work on the wire harnesses I guess.
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  #13  
Unread 18th December 2016, 10:55 PM
Jeremiahs22 Jeremiahs22 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fairbanks, AK, USA
Year: 1998
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Small Update:

I got the engine over to my garage this weekend and test fit the subframe on it to start beefing it up. But first, for those that don't know anything about the engine, it's an EG33 out of a 1992 Subaru SVX. I had it bored out to 98mm (raised displacement by about .6 liters) to fit the forged 11:1CR pistons from JE Pistons. The crank and rod bearings are by King. Also, I deleted the EGR system.





Subframe bolted under it:

DSC00620 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

Clearances look great, I have a lot of room for strengthening, keeping in mind engine movement of course:

DSC00621 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC00622 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

Upside down:

DSC00623 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

This shows why I shaped the subframe the way I did, for the exhaust:

DSC00624 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

But I don't like how low the exhaust will be since I was shooting for about 4-5" of ground clearance to the subframe at full bump. The exhaust would have like an inch like this, so i'll be building some weird headers later on. Oh, and I've got 20ft of 1.25" DOM on the way which should be way more than enough to do all of the control arms, so once I get back from vacation I'll need to get my **** in gear.
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  #14  
Unread 19th December 2016, 08:26 AM
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jf1sf5 jf1sf5 is offline
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Yummee, that really is a nice project !
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  #15  
Unread 22nd January 2017, 11:26 PM
Jeremiahs22 Jeremiahs22 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Year: 1998
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So i started on control arms this last weekend, but just in the nick of time before I really made anything, I came across vsusp.com and decided I might as well plug in my numbers and see what I'm working with. It appeared to be limited to about 14inches of travel due to the camber going -20 degrees at full bump, and the upper arm being too short to get enough droop travel. So apparently my initial mock up was crap lol. But I've determined that if I move the upper heims inward 1.5" (can't go further due to valve cover position) and the lower mount down 2" and outward 1.5", I get what looks to be pretty good geometry:
Camber at full droop: -2*
Camber at ride height: -2*
Camber at full bump: -10*
KPI looks good at about 14*, giving a scrub radius of .58" with 32" tires. So I didn't do too bad on the knuckles, and if I can ever get the gearing for it, going to 33" or 35" tires, the scrub radius only improves.
Actual lateral tire scrub I'm unsure about, but from ride height to bump looks very minimal.
Only other things to account for are CV's and tie rod ends, the latter of which I have a lot of freedom with on the knuckle end, and the rack end can be adjusted to put the heims inline with the upper and lower mounts. As for the axles: I'm unsure right now about how much plunge the front axles will have, but I'm planning on running factory style inner joints which have about 2" of throw, and I'm sure it'll be much less than that. Plus the lateral location of the inner cv joint can be adjusted to put it inline with the upper and lower joints as well which might help. On the knuckle, I tried to get the joint inline with the uniballs so that there is no steering plunge.


So after running through a bunch of different ways in my mind to relocate the lower mounts, I came to the conclusion that there was no good way to do it and not have it look like crap. Generally my philosophy is "don't get it right, get it running" but I'm really shooting for the opposite this time around. So after wasting time trying to change the subframe, I started on a better way.

I used some of my tube tabs to hold this piece of DOM in place, with a heim mounted to the tube with two other tabs:

DSC00872 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

This allowed me to get the lower joint moved down 2" and over 1.25" like i need (the subframe will not be permanently connected to the tubing like this):

DSC00869 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

Then I bent the tip up to mate to a bar I installed that welds to my mounts that bolt to the factory tow hook spot, which is one of the strongest areas in front of the subframe. This will later be where I build my bumper and skid plate off of:

DSC00874 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC00876 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

DSC00875 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

You can see the piece of tubing sticking out of the tow hook mount here, which will be where I can send tubing to the front for the bumper:

DSC00873 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr

So now I've got a much more solid frame for the control arms to mount to, and will be perfect for bolting skid plates to. I'll be adding some smaller tubing in X's for strength as well. The whole thing will extend to the tailshaft of the transmission and will be mounted to the body in 8 places: front tow hooks, subframe mount, rear factory control arm bushing mount (see below), and the transmission mount spots. So basically the whole front half of the car will be tied together. I haven't decided yet how i'll do the upper arm mounts. I may re drill the holes to move the heim inward 1.5" then just run 1"DOM from the bottom of those mounts to the lower piece of DOM. But I don't think it'll look great. Might ditch the subframe i made and replace with 1" DOM.

This is my mount that takes the place of factory rear control arm mount:

DSC00570 by jeremiah stewart, on Flickr
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  #16  
Unread 24th January 2017, 10:50 AM
casperfromholland casperfromholland is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Amsterdam Holland
Year: 1999
Model: forester sf
Transmission: manual 5speed 4.44 end h/l 1.59
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absolutely, absolutely, absolutely awesome!

What kind of gearbox are you planning to use?
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  #17  
Unread 25th January 2017, 01:57 AM
Jeremiahs22 Jeremiahs22 is offline
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Year: 1998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casperfromholland View Post
absolutely, absolutely, absolutely awesome!

What kind of gearbox are you planning to use?
Thanks man! I'm going to be running the factory Phase 2 auto with 4.44 diffs. I am not a fan of manual subies off road. I'm also considering going with a phase 1 4eat and putting on a full manual valve body from a nissan skyline (RE4R01A-3A is valve body number) so that I can have instant shifts, engine braking in every gear and the ability to hold any gear.
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  #18  
Unread 27th January 2017, 06:49 AM
casperfromholland casperfromholland is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2011
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you are not considering a manual dualrange?
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  #19  
Unread 27th January 2017, 08:37 AM
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jf1sf5 jf1sf5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremiahs22 View Post
Thanks man! I'm going to be running the factory Phase 2 auto with 4.44 diffs. I am not a fan of manual subies off road. I'm also considering going with a phase 1 4eat and putting on a full manual valve body from a nissan skyline (RE4R01A-3A is valve body number) so that I can have instant shifts, engine braking in every gear and the ability to hold any gear.
Do you keep the oem MPT 4EAT or do you upgrade to the VTD ?
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  #20  
Unread 27th January 2017, 07:50 PM
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NachaLuva NachaLuva is offline
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Awesome, you really are pushing the boundaries!

I'd be happy to make a couple of suggestions if you like...
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