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  #21  
Unread 3rd November 2016, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jf1sf5 View Post
Hmmm…

I have no body lift. But I have 1" trailing arm spacers and SG lateral links for a wider rear track (+3cm) to keep the springs from rubbing the frame at full droop.

I too have a custom length of the DT2 version but a DT1 version is enough for the use.

Rear SG top mounts are easier to modify for the springs to sit nicely (ID 60mm or 2")
gotcha, its Jeremiah thats running sub frame spacers not you and not a bodylift my mistake.

I have a few more questions if you dont mind, sorry if they seem stupid but how else a fool gonna learn!?

1. Both you and Jeremiah have custom length DT2's. Is it the extended length that gives you more wheel travel or will a set of DT2's straight from the factory give more wheel travel vs stock suspension.

2. this strut setup will give ~2" lift?(as you replied to Teni)

3. You mention modifications to the top mounts(i assume you are referring to strut mounts), is that because you have a extended length or thats just necessary to install the DT2's. Either way what sort of modification is made to the top mounts?

4. I see that you said that you have the exact same set as the pic that roosmsg posted, are you then running the springs that came with the struts as opposed to Jeremiah who got longer struts and had to go with the swift barrel springs.


Again i apologize if my questions are ridiculous or repetitive but i am very excited to learn and both of your suspensions make me drool allover my key board
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  #22  
Unread 3rd November 2016, 09:29 AM
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1. I have DT2's and Jeremiah has DT1's. Yes, the extended length of the rod/shaft is what gives you more travel (theorical, see n°4).

2. It gives me about 2" lift because I don't need to go higher, its my DD. But if I put more preload on the springs (threaded spring seats) then I can have more lift.

3. I had to modify the rear SG top mounts to fit the 60mm ID springs (pic to come)

4. I am running the exact set on the pic but changed the springs since (softer and longer) because I wanted maximum wheel travel. HotBits springs are not long enough.

If you look closely to my set and Jeremiah's set, you can see that my springs go much lower on the strut and that allows more articulation because I am not limited by spring block on maximum compression. I use the whole length of the rod/shaft.

Actual spring rates and lengths front 20N/mm and 550mm, rear 18N/mm and 600mm.

Your questions are not ridiculous at all, I had to ask a few too but had no one to answer me except google !
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  #23  
Unread 13th November 2016, 02:40 PM
Jeremiahs22 Jeremiahs22 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jf1sf5 View Post
If you look closely to my set and Jeremiah's set, you can see that my springs go much lower on the strut and that allows more articulation because I am not limited by spring block on maximum compression. I use the whole length of the rod/shaft.
Just want to interject real quick; I went with the 2.5" ID 14" long barrel springs for two reasons:

1. Because they allow more travel than non-barrel springs, so the fronts being 175lb/in, they allow for 10.3" max stroke which is more than the rod length. The rears are 125lb/in which allow for 10.7" max stroke which is only .3" less than the rod length (rod length is 12" minus 1" because of the SG top hats). So with the bump stops, my springs aren't killing any usable travel.

2. Normally, long springs like these don't like to compress straight, but the barrel design gives them the support so that they do compress straight.

Macksterminator, you had asked about putting spacers on top of these coilovers, and to that i'd say you can, but it wouldn't make sense. The reason for that is because there is no extra cost to get a custom length set, so for example, what Jf1sf5 did was order his 2.5" longer than the factory struts because it's known that 2.5" is the max amount that you can lift a totally stock forester (just like strut spacers or lower strut lifts). In doing so, he gained something like 2 inches of travel, which you would be throwing away if you get factory length coilovers and put spacers on em. Does that make sense?

The SG top hat modification that has to be done to run the spring perches that come with the coilovers is either what Jf1sf5 did which hopefully he gets a picture of, or you do what Hotbits Canada told me to do. Cut the bottom part of the top hat off which holds the factory dust cover, then drill the hotbits spring perch out to match the rod diameter so you can slip it down the rod, then bolt the hat on, and the spring perch sits against the top hat. Seemed crude, but it was simply and effective.
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  #24  
Unread 13th November 2016, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremiahs22 View Post
there is no extra cost to get a custom length set, so for example, what Jf1sf5 did was order his 2.5" longer than the factory struts because it's known that 2.5" is the max amount that you can lift a totally stock forester (just like strut spacers or lower strut lifts).
I have a full body lift on my SF Foz, I'm currently running 3.5" lift front & 4.5" rear, do you know if you can get them that length?
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  #25  
Unread 14th November 2016, 01:59 PM
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Here's a picture of my modified SG rear top hats. Suits 60mm or 2,5" ID springs.

http://www.forum4x4.org/threads/1175...=1#post3105126
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  #26  
Unread 14th November 2016, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jf1sf5 View Post
If you look closely to my set and Jeremiah's set, you can see that my springs go much lower on the strut and that allows more articulation because I am not limited by spring block on maximum compression. I use the whole length of the rod/shaft.
Sorry, I should've added statically/very slowly like when you're sort of "rock crawling"

Sure that dynamically/with speed, you can compress the springs more, like on jumps or bumps. For that purpose, I turn the compression knob to make the damping firmer but it still gives me full stroke/wheel travel.

Jeremiah, I'm not sure that with your spring rates, the spring preload and the weigh of your Forester unless fully loaded you are able to get full compression but I might be wrong...
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  #27  
Unread 14th November 2016, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NachaLuva View Post
I have a full body lift on my SF Foz, I'm currently running 3.5" lift front & 4.5" rear, do you know if you can get them that length?
Nachaluva, I have maximum stroke possible without body lift. If you have a 2" body lift, you can add 1" stroke to the front coilovers (1" for the shaft and 1" for the housing) and 2" stroke to the rear coilovers (2" for the shaft and 0 for the housing or same as front).
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  #28  
Unread 15th November 2016, 08:52 AM
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Thanks jf1sf5
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  #29  
Unread 16th November 2016, 11:46 AM
Jeremiahs22 Jeremiahs22 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NachaLuva View Post
I have a full body lift on my SF Foz, I'm currently running 3.5" lift front & 4.5" rear, do you know if you can get them that length?
Yeah you can, mine are 5" (actually 123mm) longer, which is about the max. But yeah they can do it. Max travel for front is 10", rear is 12" with stock arms. These numbers based on cv's, tie rod and ball joint angles.

Jf1sf5, I understand the confusion now; I'm not running any preload on the rear, and about 3/4" in front. So I'm able to use all of the springs travel, and I chose 125lb and 175lb because the weight of the Foz on two wheels compresses them almost all of the way, leaving just an inch of spring left, but the bump stop is ~65mm so it hits that before maxing the spring out. So basically, it uses full travel statically.
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  #30  
Unread 18th November 2016, 01:03 PM
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Jeremiah, there is maybe another difference between our sets. My housings are certainly shorter than yours. I have 370mm front housings and 440mm rear housings thus why your sets are also longer in total length.
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