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Old 8th August 2015, 07:28 PM
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Default Gen3 outback front recovery points... a thought

Crawling under my outback, I notice the mounts (three bolts) for the left 'tie down' and right 'tow point' are exactly the same, mirrored.

Why not source a second tow plate from a wrecker and replace the tie-down point? (*)

The plate is slightly bend up at its edges - so may need some minor grinding down to fit flush.. and the stock bumper obviously doesn't provide a matching hole, but for those with aftermarket bumpers/bullbars - any reason why not?

(*) - clearly - something like a aftermarket tow hook would be better.
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Old 8th August 2015, 07:52 PM
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Gidday Duncan

I agree. Regardless of how well that tow/recovery point and bolt are engineered (we have that system on our SH), distributing the load at the front, or using the tow bar at the rear has to put less eccentric stresses on the frame of the car, specially in extreme situations.
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Old 8th August 2015, 09:47 PM
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For snatching, de bogging and the like I have a sling about 1.5 m long which fits nicely between the two tie down points and distributes load that way.
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Old 8th August 2015, 09:54 PM
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^ so have I.

Rated load distribution strap with rated shackles.

But our vehicles don't have the recovery point and bolt of the newer models.
SWMBO's SH has.
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Old 8th August 2015, 10:53 PM
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my thinking was more that the std tie-down point is pretty small - marginal to fit a rated shackle pin through.

That, and the recovery plate has more meat on it
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Old 8th August 2015, 10:57 PM
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We have upgraded our tie-down points with a stronger tow point - these mount onto the front of the vehicle using the three bolts on each side that you have mentioned above...





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Old 8th August 2015, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duncanm View Post
my thinking was more that the std tie-down point is pretty small - marginal to fit a rated shackle pin through.
Not a problem on my series II SG fronts. At the rear, I have a massive and extremely strongly attached tow bar.

Quote:
That, and the recovery plate has more meat on it
Duncan, I can't speak for other models, but the front tie down points on my SG are strongly attached to the lower sub-frame. The top of this sub-frame is further attached by a piece of shaped steel about 150w x 250h to the upper sub-frame.

The bolt holding this reinforcing plate onto the bottom sub-frame also goes right through the sub-frame, exactly where the tie down point plate is welded to the lower sub-frame. The top of this reinforcing plate is welded to the upper sub-frame, which is an integral part of the body shell. i.e. it's pretty flaming strong already ...
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Old 8th August 2015, 11:38 PM
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Tigger, they look nice & meaty, but why are they different? It would be better using a hook system on each side to eliminate the need for shackles.

NOTE: when using a distribution strap, it is essential to feed the strap through the loop on the snatch strap. Do not use a shackle here as it becomes a flying missile if anything breaks.
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Old 9th August 2015, 11:37 PM
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We already had the one with the "hook" it came with the bullbar but the other side was just a plate - we didn't really feel comfortable only having a tow point on one side of the front of the car for obvious reasons and so went about trying to get the other side fabbed up so that we had a point on each side... The person we went to, to do the fab work was only able to offer the closed loop as a solution - ideally, we would have liked another "hook" but unfortunately that wasn't possible Maybe later on, we are able to have something similar made up - but for now, hopefully this will do...
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Old 10th August 2015, 05:52 AM
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A new recovery point is all good and well however ive seen one point rip off an SF Forester. The loop bit didnt fail, the chassis it was bolted to had. So putting a new point on doesnt mean its stronger than factory but may mean you have a larger heavier missile that launches at the recovery vehicle when it rips off.

In my opinion there is nothing wrong with the factory point especially with an equilizer strap (or tree trunk protector or similar) which is what should be done each recovery for the sake of the bogged car and recovery vehicle.
It doesnt look strong or like anything flash but one must remember it is a unibody vehicle at the end of the day and you're snatching off whats essentially a box section which doesnt have the integrity of the SHS of a ladder chassis
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